Beretta 390 Problems!

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dlzigjr

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Gas Auto experts please weigh in:

Several years ago I purchased the Walmart version of the Beretta 390 with synthetic stocks. When I bought it I remember firing a couple boxes of dove loads w/out problem. I then tried it during the cold of duck season and had problems cycling rounds. It would fire the first shell, eject it, and hang up with the new shell about 50% toward the chamber. I went back to my trusty 870 Rem express and it stayed in the gun cabinet. At some point along the way, I had the forearm nut drilled to except a sling swivel. This year I have been determined to get the 390 back in action....I have cleaned it thoroughly, tried "dry" teflon lubes, etc., without success. Whether its a heavy steel duck load or a "heavy" lead dove load, it fires the first round and either doesn't eject the empty round, or it empties and doesn't completely chamber the next round (with all the ammo brands I've tried)

I have a couple ideas as to the problem. I'm wondering if having the forearm nut drilled with a free floating stud to accept the sling swivel somehow messed with the gas system. Also, in looking at parts diagrams for this model, the spring on my gun that fits under the forearm nut doesn't have a plate on one end (perhaps this makes the gas flow too unrestricted decreasing mechanical intertia of the bolt). Anyone have ideas? If my description is unclear let me know and I will provide part numbers for those I've mentioned...

dave
 
I took mine apart for cleaning once and had the same problem. There are several parts inside the forearm that must be put back in the correct order or you will have a single shot. I cannot get my hands on mine right now to look at but I suspect this may be your problem.
 
Thanks for reply,,,

As near as I can tell, my assembly is correct referring to the PDF that I downloaded from the Beretta website on the 390. The part number that is referred to as "B4" in that manual is missing from my gun. I have the spring "B5" but not the steel endcap labeled "B4". I had thought this was just a difference in the Walmart gun but perhaps this is my guns problem is that part not being there?

Dave
 
That is your gas valve. Without it you are allowing far too much gas to escape. This explains your weak ejection. You must have this part in place in order for the gun to function correctly. I have an older A390, and a new AL390 (Wal Mart gun, although that's not where I bought it). The piston fits very snuggly in the spring on the older gun, but is loose on the newer one. I'm betting it fell out the first time you disassembled the gun.

You can deal with Beretta's horrendously bad customer service and may be get your part, or maybe not. I recommend that you go to Cole Gunsmithing and order one for about $10.00. It may be a good idea to give them a call just to be sure you are getting the right thing, but from your description and the manual reference that is it.
 
dlzigjr: The 390 has a stellar reputation by the vast majority of its users but, like you, I'm apparently one of the very few who have had problems with it. I was experiencing the exact same problems with mine as you described but, unfortunately, I don't have good news for you. No matter how well I cleaned it and made certain the gun was reassembled in the correct way (and that can be a tricky proposition because it is easy to put it back together improperly if you aren't paying attention-ask me how I know!), the malfunctions continued. Beretta was no help and, because I've got better things to do than to be dicking around with a gun trying to get it to work right, I finally gave up and got rid of it (at a substantial loss I might add because I only thought it right to inform the buyer of the problem).

I certainly hope your problem can be resolved. Maybe Snarlingiron's suggestion is your answer and/or maybe you've got way more patience than I've got. Good luck. :banghead:
 
Thank you for your replys....

Swampwolf, trust me I'm about at that point. I'm just not one to give up on something and it sticks in my craw that I can't get it to work. I first fell in love with the 390 years ago shooting a borrowed one from my brother. I naturally shot well with the gun for whatever reason, and that led to me buying mine. I'm a waterfowler and hunt in all weathers, I shoot the Rem 870x for reliability in the rain and extreme cold, but like to have a semi-auto for better weather. Thus my current renewed focus on getting mine back in action.

Snarlingiron, thanks for your input as well. Surely this will fix my problem as that part is clearly missing from my gun. I just thought that maybe the walmart (cheaper) version of the 390 perhaps didn't have that part, b/c there are several other parts that the Wmart version doesn't have (such as the sling part that goes under the forearm nut, the soft rubber butt-pad, the nice wood, the magazine cut-off, etc.).

Snarlingiron, do you think that having my fore end cap drilled for sling swivel stud affects the gas system at all?

Regards,

Dave
 
I would be surprised if it does not work after getting the missing part.
Let us know what happens
 
Snarlingiron, do you think that having my fore end cap drilled for sling swivel stud affects the gas system at all?
Click to expand...

Nope. The cap only holds the barrel and fore end snuggly in place and places tension on the gas valve spring. A hole in the end of it should not affect anything. Get the gas valve back in place and I'm betting your problems disappear.

You would be hard pressed to find a more reliable shotgun than the 390. Well, a 390 with all the parts in place, anyway.

Let us know how it works out for you.
 
Snarlingiron...

Thank you for your input and I will keep you posted once I order and get the part in the mail and installed. I really do want my 390 to perform as I've heard it can. Especially since I've shot so well with a borrowed 390 before purchasing mine!

Regards,

Dave
 
I'm gonna think positive

and assume that when I get my part in the mail it will fix the problem. Next thing I need advice on is regarding what/who is the best source to purchase a new soft-cushion recoil pad to replace the hard plastic shoulder killer that came stock with the gun. Waterfowling doesn't bother me much because of fewer shells fired and the heavy warm clothes worn to buffer recoil, but dove hunting or shooting trap/sporting clays.....firing several boxes is PAINFUL while wearing light clothing!

Dave
 
I ordered one from Beretta. It fits perfectly and just screws on. It is available in several thicknesses. I bought the thinnest one because I am typically shooting 1 oz target loads, and they don't bother me, and I am short and need a shorter LOP.

Beretta

If you want to soak up recoil effectively, and don't mine adding a little more than 1" to your LOP, then the LimbSaver 10702 is the ticket.
 
cole gunsmithing

trying to order the gas valve part, but Cole requires a minimum $10 order (part is 9.60). what other part should I order that is a frequently replaced part on the 390 model?

Dave
 
I am not sure that exact model but it never hurts to have an extra firing pin, extractor or ejector.
 
From the description of the problem, Snarlingiron is 100% correct. Without the gas valve, the gas cylinder lets too much gas out to operate the gun (unless you are shooting heavy 3" magnum shells).

Heck, if you wanted to do so, you could make that valve plate yourself. Assuming you don't want to do that, then order one from Cole. To get your order over $10.00 I would suggest that you also order a recoil spring. They cost around $7 and may need replacing after 6,000 to 8,000 rounds.

I once broke the Connecting Rod (A12) on my first 390, but that was probably due to not replacing the recoil spring soon enough. That's how I learned the importance of replacing the recoil spring periodically. :) However, most shooters will never put enough rounds through the gun to wear out a recoil spring.
 
I wrote:
Without the gas valve, the gas cylinder lets too much gas out to operate the gun (unless you are shooting heavy 3" magnum shells).
Click to expand...

Then I went back and re-read the original post and found out that even with heavy 3" magnum shells, the gun doesn't operate properly. I'm still convinced that the problem is the missing gas valve plate. I would select a flat washer of suitable size and try it with that. I'm about 99% sure it would work properly with a flat washer in place of the gas valve plate.
 
thanks all for your input and comments...

Pete409, I've already ordered the gas-check valve from Cole gunsmithing (and the replacement recoil spring as backup for later). I think it will solve the worst problem I'm having with the gun (not ejecting almost all shells from chamber). The next problem I feel I'll contend with once I've replaced the gas check valve is in cold weather the bolt seems to hang up with the new round (after ejecting the first round) half-way to battery. Perhaps this will be related to a little bit of break in period, perhaps I will have to get some very fine sandpaper out and polish the action parts a bit, or perhaps I used the wrong lube in the past (WD-40). Do you guys knowledgeable with the 390 have a gun-oil preference that I should use for this model.

Provided that Cole sends me the part before duck season in AR ends (Jan 25th) I will keep you guys updated on my progress with the gun in field tests.

Happy Holidays All,

David
 
Don't use any sandpaper on any action parts. Have you ever removed the bolt and trigger assemblies from the receiver for cleaning? That needs to be done periodically.

Be sure the gas ports (2) in the barrel are open.

An often overlooked area (particularly if the gun has gotten wet) is the recoil spring in the stock. The spring could have rusted inside the spring tube or may have some debris fouling it. A quick fix is to squirt some gun oil down in the tube and work the spring back and forth. If that doesn't fix the problem, you may need to remove the buttstock and remove the spring from the tube.

Yes, I have a preference for gun oil. It's Breakfree CLP. I use it generously on all moving parts. I haven't tried it in extreme cold weather. If you are hunting in temps below freezing, you might consider using a thin penetrating oil instead of the Breakfree. I would try Birchwood Casey Sheath in real cold weather. During normal/hot temps, use Breakfree CLP.

If you don't know how to do any of these steps, let me know and I think I can guide you through it. Your Owner's Manual is your friend. :)
 
An often overlooked area (particularly if the gun has gotten wet) is the recoil spring in the stock. The spring could have rusted inside the spring tube or may have some debris fouling it.
Click to expand...

I replaced the recoil spring on my used A390. It was very rusty, as was the tube. I polished the tube with 0000 steel wool on a dowel with a drill and put in the new spring. Actually I wasn't having a problem with the gun, but when I cycled it you could hear a skreeching sound coming from the rusted spring and tube. Now I always make it a practice to take a 10" Philips screwdriver and compress the spring and spray a small amount of Remoil down the tube when I clean it.

The WD-40 argument is perennial. I can only tell you from over 40 years experience that it will eventually turn sticky and gummy. For me this makes it unsuitable for firearms, or indeed any fine mechanical device. It would be ok for a door hinge. I haven't owned a can since I was about 20. That was a long time ago.

There are lots of good gun lubricants. I use Remoil because it is not expensive, and I like the convenience of an aerosol. I have used G-96 and like it, but it is not as easy to find as Remoil. CLP aerosol is just too thick for me. Others swear by it. Lots of folks use Mobile 1. I have used it and like it. The upside for Mobil 1 is that you can buy a quart and some sort of applicator bottle and you are pretty much set for life. Your Beretta will only require a few drops after each cleaning.
 
yes I've cleaned mine pretty well...

several times. 2 weeks ago when I pulled it out of the gun cabinet determined to make it work this duck season, I broke it completely down including including magazine internal parts (degreased, cleaned and re-oiled), trigger group removal, and took stock apart cleaning and oiling all of the parts in the stock (recoil spring, etc.) All of the parts in good shape no rust, but with built up thick grease. I was SURE this was gonna fix the problem. Now I know its froma part missing. Where are the gas ports in the barrel I need to make sure are open? This was something I don't think I noticed on breakdown.

Regards,

Dave
 
Dave,

Remove the barrel from the gun and look into the gas cylinder where it connects to the bottom of the barrel. You will see two small holes where the gas comes from the barrel into the gas cylinder to operate the action.

Some people use pipe cleaners and solvent to clean these small holes. A bent paper clip is pretty good to check to see if they are open, but not much good at cleaning (unless the hole is plugged up).

Anything you can punch through there to ensure that the holes are open will help. Some solvent (kerosene, mineral spirits, etc) will help too.

BTW, this solvent is also excellent for cleaning the trigger assembly, bolt assembly, and anyplace where grease/grime has accumulated. Lubricate with Breakfree CLP after the solvent dries.
 
Pete, I checked the gas ports and they had no obstructions at all. As far as lubricants, I've used alot of WD-40 in the past without any problems when I didn't have oil branded as "gunoil". I usually have some in the truck, and its great to have for a quick spray and wipe down after a hunt in the rain. As far as the cold temps, I didn't mean extreme cold but even in the 28 to 35 degree range I would experience this problem (action noticeably sluggish and hanging, not closing the action with fresh shell). It was not a cleaning issue, I made sure of that. I also experimented with different amounts and brands of oils without fixing the issue. Oh well, I'm putting the cart before the horse anyway; have to get the gas check part installed first. I'll get some breakfree clp today, hopefully they will have it at Sportsman's Warehouse.

Dave
 
Snarlingiron,

I forgot to ask you about the Mobile 1. Do you mean the automotive oil?

Dave
 
Pete,
I just reread your post about not using "sandpaper". By that I meant polishing with extremely fine grits of wet/dry sandpaper greater than 1000 grit. You can polish metal to a mirror finish like that. My thinking was that the finish on my walmart version 390 is making the action a little sluggish. For example, the bolt on mine has sort of a parkerized looking finish (its a dull black color). Comparing mine to more expensive 390's which have polished metal or jeweled metal bolts, I wondered if that finish might be the culprit. If the 390 is machined to very close tolerances, the finish could be a factor.

Dave
 
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