Beretta 92 grip screw sheared off

[Waveski]

Today I received a set of beautiful Nill Grips for my Beretta 92FS w/Vertec slide.
Quick background -I've never been much of a shot with semi auto pistols ; I decided that the Beretta would be my gateway to getting past that. I found a 92 FS with a Vertec slide - perfect for me because I wanted the sight options afforded by that slide. After about 500 rounds I decided I was on the right track so I began to make it "my" gun ... installed a rear target sight , then I went all out on the grips - Nills with thumb rest and palm swell. Mucho $$$. Upon attempting to mount the Nills I found that the ding-dong previous owner had sheared off a grip screw and glued the head back into the original plastic grip panel! Surprising given the fact that the pistol is very clean and looking as though it was barely shot. So ...

Before I order new grip frame stud(s) , should I try to get the busted off screw out of the existing stud? If so , dremel , or ???
Is that stud threaded into the frame or pressed? Is an overnight KROIL soak in order?

Any advice on either clearing or removing the stud will be appreciated. I figure it's best to go at it with whatever informational tools I can muster.

Thanking in advance through gritted teeth , 'Ski

 

[Waveski]

I never went to the Beretta forum till just now ; searched and found so never mind.

 

[FL-NC]

FWIW, make sure the relief cut on the right grip isn't coming in contact with the trigger bar or trigger bar spring- it will cause a malfunction that can't be corrected without disassembly. This is a frequent problem with the M9 pistols with rubber grips, esp. in environments like the desert where the rubber can flex from extreme temperature changes. If your grips are a hard material like wood, micarta, or something of that nature, probably not an issue as long as there is no contact on those parts. Also, don't lose or neglect to put in your grip screw washers- not only do they keep the screws tight, if the washer isn't there, the screw may end up going into the mag well and lock a magazine in the gun when tightened.

 

[edwardware]

In my shop (my resources, etc) I would use a dremel with a thin cutoff wheel to cut a slot. Add heat from a soldering iron and turn the old screw in or out; while doing my best NOT to move the stud.

Sounds like you already solved it; please report how?

 

[drband]

You could use a knife edge needle file to cut a slot. Soak it in a good penetrating oil overnight (Kroil , PB Blaster, etc...). If it won’t move apply heat with a soldering iron as already suggested. I bet it will come out.

 

[WestKentucky]

Not just no, but hell no I wouldn’t go at it with a file. Centerpunch the screw with an automatic punch, drill a tiny hole in the screw, use a screw extractor. They are like $6 at Lowe’s if you just buy the one you need.

 

[Waveski]

Sounds like you already solved it; please report how?

No not solved yet , but I did find a good source of info on a Beretta forum. The best nugget is this: Try all options for removing the broken screw remnant because the stud is firmly staked and removal can get ugly.

FL-NC , thanks for the washer tip. I hadn't considered the spacing aspect of their use. Good to know.

WestKentucky - What is an automatic punch?

I have not decided whether to go the route of slotting the screw base or to drill and use screw extractor. No reason to not use Kroil. The (expletive deleted) um ... person who caused the issue probably never even tried to get the remnant out. I am cautiously optimistic and will report when appropriate. All advice is appreciated.

 

[WestKentucky]

WestKentucky - What is an automatic punch?

you just push down and it kinda pops and leaves the punch where the tip is. I’m not sure how it works, but I like them. I break about 2 a year, the harbor freight variety aren’t real durable.

 

[Waveski]

Success!
After a 24 hr. soak w/Kroil close examination revealed that the broken screw remnant was actually concave , looking pre-punched. After covering the entire frame in vinyl tape and clamping it in a padded vice I was able to drill thru the screw , handheld , no drill press. I then selected a small hex driver and gently drove the driver through the screw with a small ball peen hammer. Imagine my relief when the screw backed out. When I went to thread a grip screw into the stud it felt partially cross threaded. I oiled the threads and worked the screw in stages like a tap and was able to correct the threads.

Shooting with the new Nill grips will have to wait until I procure new grip screws , slotted - and washers. I can wait ; I am greatly relived.

 

[Coal Dragger]

Sexy.

Now time to send it to Ernest Langdon for his trigger work and G conversion!

 

[Waveski]

Well - that's interesting. I had not heard of that outfit before.
I see no need for "G Conversion" as I have no carry intentions for this pistol ; the rear sight certainly does not lend itself thus. If I did carry a 92 I would carry with hammer down / safety off - that is why & how I prefer da/sa pistols.
"Trigger Job In A Bag" sounds interesting , though. Thanks for the tip.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Success!
After a 24 hr. soak w/Kroil close examination revealed that the broken screw remnant was actually concave , looking pre-punched. After covering the entire frame in vinyl tape and clamping it in a padded vice I was able to drill thru the screw , handheld , no drill press. I then selected a small hex driver and gently drove the driver through the screw with a small ball peen hammer. Imagine my relief when the screw backed out. When I went to thread a grip screw into the stud it felt partially cross threaded. I oiled the threads and worked the screw in stages like a tap and was able to correct the threads.

Shooting with the new Nill grips will have to wait until I procure new grip screws , slotted - and washers. I can wait ; I am greatly relived.

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I'm not normally a big fan of thumbrests, but those are nice lookin grips! Good work, bro.

 

[edwardware]

Success!

Nicely done!

 

[Coal Dragger]

Well - that's interesting. I had not heard of that outfit before.
I see no need for "G Conversion" as I have no carry intentions for this pistol ; the rear sight certainly does not lend itself thus. If I did carry a 92 I would carry with hammer down / safety off - that is why & how I prefer da/sa pistols.
"Trigger Job In A Bag" sounds interesting , though. Thanks for the tip.

The G conversion is a factory part that renders the safety lever a de-cocker only. Once the hammer is down the lever springs back up under spring pressure, so there is no external safety at that point.

Ernest Langdon is the man where Beretta pistols are concerned, particularly in the realm of training and trigger/custom work.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

Success!
After a 24 hr. soak w/Kroil close examination revealed that the broken screw remnant was actually concave , looking pre-punched. After covering the entire frame in vinyl tape and clamping it in a padded vice I was able to drill thru the screw , handheld , no drill press. I then selected a small hex driver and gently drove the driver through the screw with a small ball peen hammer. Imagine my relief when the screw backed out. When I went to thread a grip screw into the stud it felt partially cross threaded. I oiled the threads and worked the screw in stages like a tap and was able to correct the threads.

Shooting with the new Nill grips will have to wait until I procure new grip screws , slotted - and washers. I can wait ; I am greatly relived.

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Nice man. I love me some Nill grips, and the one thumb rest pair I have make range time so comfortable. For target shooting, they really are the cat's meow IMO. Yeah, they are spendy, but they are worth it to me. I've been thinking about putting a set like yours on my Wilson/Beretta 92 Brig Tac.
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