Best choke for small game/bird hunting

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I have an 12ga 870 Wingmaster and want to get a 26"-30" barrel for it for small game and bird hunting. It only accepts 2 3/4". For small game, I mostly hunt rabbits and squirrels. I have a 3.5" shotgun that I use for geese and turkey. Therefore, phesants and quail will be the main birds that I'll be hunting.

The problem is that I want a blued 26-28" barrel for my Wingmaster, but most, if not all, of the barrels that I've seen that are compatable with my Wingmaster only have fixed chokes.

Therefore, based on my intended use and considering that it only shoots 2 3/4" 12ga shells, what kind of choke would be best for the barrel? I'm thinking either a Modified or Improved Cylinder, but please point me in the correct direction. And no, I am not going to buy a bunch of barrels so that I can have every possible choke option. Haha. Thanks.
 
I'm sure you can get a Remchoke barrel with the polished finish for your 870 that will drop right on and in my opinion that is the way to go.

But if I had to settle for one fixed choke barrel for the situation you described. I would pick a 28" Modified. Even though I had rather have a 26" I/C for quail.
 
I hunted for years when younger with an Ithaca 16ga. that came with a 26" barrel choked Imp.Cyl. We ate a lot of game; rabbit, pheasant, grouse, and even ducks (mostly ducks that were "jumped" while hunting alongside of creeks). I occasionally took a long shot at a pheasant that had "bailed out" after running, and on those I could have used a Modified choke. But 95% of the time, the Improved Cylinder choke was better than OK.

My barrel was 26", and it balanced very nicely. Front-to-rear balance, I think, has a lot to do with how quickly and accurately a shotgun "points."
Also, every inch of barrel length is another potential hang-up on brush or tree branches when hunting in the "puckerbrush".

I am finally able to get my Ithaca a new barrel, and one with screw-in chokes. But I'm expecting that most of my hunting will still be done with the IC choke, and I passed on going to a 28" barrel because of the balance and handling of the 26" one I have.

I did, however, make an exception on barrel length when I had a chance to buy a Spanish O/U, 12 ga., anything I wanted, for a bargain price. I went for 20" barrels, bored IC and Modified. It was a great woodcock gun!
 
my choice would be 26 inch imp cyl choke. todays shells seem to pattern tighter and as long as you pattern it you should be able to find something that works. i miss more because of too much choke than too little. pt
 
with pheasants in the mix, I would go for Modified, otherwise for quail over dogs, the IC would get the nod - however the Remchoke barrel would still be the best idea
 
I'll vote for 26" Imp Cyl.

About 1970, I cut off my Browning A5 30" full choke barrel and jug choked it at 26".

It shoots a slightly tighter then Cyl pattern with lead and a slightly looser then Mod with steel.

I hunt rabbits and squrrels with a .22 rifle.
But my cut-off & jugged choked A5 has killed more quail, pheasants, and ducks then you could get in the back 12 seats of a YUGO Limo.

rc
 
You can still use a barrel designed for 3" shells on your gun. Just stick with 2 3/4" because of your receiver. You shouldn't have any trouble finding a barrel made for remchoke tubes in a blue finish. It may not be as cheap as the matte blue barrels.

If I were restricted to only 1 choke it would be IC. In fact even though all of my guns accept interchangesble tubes the IC tube is in the gun 95% of the time except when turkey hunting. I even use IC for most of my waterfowl hunting.
 
Back before everything came with choke tubes, we adjusted patterns by switching ammo.

At say, 30 yards, the difference in pattern between a trap load of 7 1/2s and a cheap load of 8s was close to one increment of choke.

So,if you get an IC barrel, use trap loads with 7 1/2s for stuff over 30 yards, 8s for closer, and a big load of 4-6 shot for Ringnecks. Or similar, because YMMV.

Do pattern. It's as essential as oxygen...
 
My favorite bird gun is an Ithaca 37 20 ga with..

a 26" barrel with improve cylinder choke.
 
What Dave said. If you want to spend the money, you can get a blued and polished RemChoke Light Contour barrel. You do know you can use a 3" chambered barrel and it will work just fine, I hope. Just 3" shells likely won't eject properly, but with 2-3/4" it will work fine.
 
+2 on what Dave said..

You have to pattern each gun, regardless. I have two 20ga with IC choke and they pattern differently.
 
I am a big fan of the IC choke, but if buying a new barrel would definitely get one with rem chokes.

One thing to note is that Remington switched barrel retaining methods a while ago. It went from a spring loaded ball to a ratcheting system. Both will fit, but if you get a new style barrel you will need either an O-ring or a wave washer to keep the barrel snug.
 
Dale, I'm not sure what you're talking about exactly referring to needing an o-ring or wave washer. Can you please explain more? Also, do you know where I can find said o-ring or wave washer should I need one? Thanks.
 
On the front of the lug that holds the barrel to the magazine, older 870s had a spring loaded little silver ball that combined with dimples in the magazine cap would keep the cap from working loose under recoil. I am not sure when, but Remington did away with that version and went with a toothy plastic magazine spring retainer that would lock into the cap. Either system works, but when using a new barrel without the ball on the lug, the magazine cap will work loose over time. Wave washers can be ordered from brownells. Other places may have them too. O rings can be had at home depot or any hardware store.

My google-fu is weak right now, but this thread has pics of converting a new style with a ratchet to an older one. I will keep looking for an image of the older style.

http://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.html?b=6&f=1&t=177067

Edit - Here is an image of a barrel with the detent.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/68593-remmy-870-mag-cap-detent.html
 
What Oneounceload said - also - consider light mod or mod on early season birds with 6 or 7 shot - then late season maybe improved mod or full with 6 down (up) to 4 shot.
 
I am odd man out, I like mod if I have to have fixed. Keep mod in inter. 90%. Use 5 or 6 on rabbitt and squr. 7&1/2 high brass on grouse. Yes I reload and know brass size does not matter, but buying in store they do not explain velocity, or dram equiv. which should be done away with. Turkey shot says max dram equiv? That means nothing without book.
 
If it's a 12 ga, go with a Cylinder choke, yes I do mean .000 constriction.
In a 28" bbl.
Use #4 shot for pheasant.

Trust me.

Sorry, I'll disagree - not for wild pheasant in any open prairie setting - M is minimum; I'll agree on #4 for the second shot...I prefer 6 or 5s for the first one. M&F have worked well on long birds actually being brought to bag
 
I like 4 or 5 shot out of an improved mod for pheasants. It can really do a number on them if they flush real close but that’s not a problem for me usually.

I never go out just for quail so I typically use my pheasant load and choke on them as well. I pass on most shots unless I’m in an open, very short grass field as I hate losing them and can’t trust the dog to find them for me.
 
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