Brass sticking after rotary tumbling

[straightShot]

In using a rotary tumbler, the brass comes out quite clean. It may be too clean as pistol brass becomes difficult to resize, etc., as friction takes over and I have to really press up on the lever to get the ram to come down and get the brass out of the die.

Does anyone else have this same issue? I'm thinking of running my brass through my vibratory tumbler after they dry just to make them a little bit more slippery.

 

[edwardware]

This is a (nearly) universally known consequence of wet tumbling; the brass surface is too clean.

Either stop wet tumbling, or add some lube back to the surface by spraying or dry tumbling.

 

[mcb]

Carbide dies or regular dies?

I vibratory tumble my brass with a little liquid Turtle Wax added and that slight coating of automotive wax does two things. First it is all the lubrication you need for carbide die sizing very easily. Second that very slight coating keep the brass from tarnishing as quickly when stored.

Not sure if you can use the wax in you rotory tumbler but if you using a natural media (walnut, corn cob etc) I don't see why it would not work in a rotory tumbler also.

ETA: yeah Turtle Wax ain't going to work in a wet tumbler.

 

[Slamfire]

In using a rotary tumbler, the brass comes out quite clean. It may be too clean as pistol brass becomes difficult to resize, etc., as friction takes over and I have to really press up on the lever to get the ram to come down and get the brass out of the die.

Does anyone else have this same issue? I'm thinking of running my brass through my vibratory tumbler after they dry just to make them a little bit more slippery.

I found tumbled 9mm cases were so hard to size on my Dillion 550B that frequently powder would bump out of the powder horn on the up stroke. But, tumbling 9mm cases with a case lube saturated patch made sizing almost effortless. And, I shot them that way. Lubricated cases size better, feed better, and extract better.

Incidentally, aluminum cases are coated with a wax so they will extract better after firing. A lot of the cheap steel 223 rifle cases are coated in sintered telfon.

 

[Rule3]

Spitz the brass with some case lube (water based) Surgically clean brass will stick

 

[Texas10mm]

Use some Hornady One Shot. It makes a world of difference.

 

[LeftyTSGC]

I wet tumble all my brass and yes it is clean. I tumble then in corn cob with polish before I store them, they are ready when you need them. Do not put any lube in the wet tumbler. Dry tumble to polish and lube.

LeftyTSGC

 

[dcloco]

Cleaned the dies yet? DEEP clean the dies.

If anything, after switching over to stainless pins/lemi shine/drop of Dawn, AND clean dies, sizing is easier.

 

[straightShot]

Cleaned the dies yet? DEEP clean the dies.

If anything, after switching over to stainless pins/lemi shine/drop of Dawn, AND clean dies, sizing is easier.

Yes, the dies are clean.

 

[HDMontana]

I use use armor all wash and wax in place of the dawn, but most any auto wash and wax will do. It leaves a thin layer of wax on the brass. Seems to help with sizing but you still need to add sizing lube on brass that you would normally use lube on, such as rifle brass.

 

[Varminterror]

“Stiction” between wet tumbled or ultrasonic cleaned (chemically cleaned as well as mechanically) brass and dies is exceptionally common. While less commonly observed, it can also influence the extraction force after firing - I lube and size my 357/44 brass, then clean AGAIN to eliminate lock-up due to case thrust. My highest power loads will lock up my revolvers if the cases are lubed, whereas chemically cleaned brass will not.

Either lube the entire lot, or lube 1 in 5 or so cases to keep the dies lightly lubricated.

 

[Dudedog]

Using auto Wash and Wax instead of dish soap helps.
I usually use Turtle Wash and wax, but the brass gets what the car gets, and the car gets whatever flavor is on sale when I go to buy some.

 

[jmorris]

Lube or tumble them in corncob/polish will slick them up.

 

[fguffey]

This is a (nearly) universally known consequence of wet tumbling; the brass surface is too clean.

Or there is a possibility reloaders are creating the problem with residue that is left on the case after tumbling. I had a once in a life time fix situation' a smith/reloader/builder had a problem with sizing 50 BMG cases. He heard wet tumbling was in fashion so he purchased one. It was about then he could not remove the cases from the die. At the time we had 5 lathes between us, I polished his 50 BMG cases while spinning his cases; he would not believe the residue left on the case after wet tumbling was a problem.

F. Guffey

 

[Tilos]

I use Dawn/Lemishine to tumble but add an auto wash/wax product to the FINAL rinse for case lube.
I read Krud Cutter in place of the Dawn cleans primer pockets WITHOUT pins and will be trying that soon...

 

[marchboom]

To those reloaders who use a wash & wax in an ultrasonic machine, how much do you use? Teaspoon? Tablespoon?

 

[Skgreen]

To those reloaders who use a wash & wax in an ultrasonic machine, how much do you use? Teaspoon? Tablespoon?

I don't use anything but cleaning solution in my U.S.
Then a quick rinse in water*.
Then an quick rinse in Armor All W & W mixed w/water.*

*One thing I've found that seems to work well for me is (2) 5 gallon buckets and a 2 (or 2.5?) gallon "KILZ" bucket with a bunch of holes drilled in the bottom.

Brass coming out of the US goes into the 2 gallon bucket and stays there throughout the rinse and then wax processes.
First, a couple swooshes in a fiver with about 2 gallons of rinse water in it, a brief drip dry, then a soak in the 2nd fiver w/ about 2 gallons of 'wax' solution in it for 5 -10- 30 minutes (Doesn't seem to make much difference how long) Noticeably less effort required to size 9mm afterwards

But,,,, I've already been jaded by the finished appearance of wet tumbled brass vs that of brass 'mostly' cleaned w/ US.

So, instead of using the W+W in the tumbler w/ the pins*, I now apply the wax as a final step using the same 'soak' method described above.

(*You wouldn't fill a bucket with filthy black water, add some AA W & W to it and wash your car with it, would you?)

Granted, it's way too much hassle* to set all this up for 1 little batch of brass, but when you have 'several thousand cases worth' of tumbling ahead of ya, it ain't as bad as it sounds.

(*You can always leave the rinse/wax solutions in the bucket(s) with a lid on top for storage. I seldom change the wax solution. Just add a bit more AA W & W)

As always, YMMV

 

[jmorris]

To those reloaders who use a wash & wax in an ultrasonic machine, how much do you use? Teaspoon? Tablespoon?

Actually a complete mix would be nice for all of the contents. I’m a lube after guy but am a sucker for trying new things.

My tiny ultrasonic mix is

2 cups hot water
1/2 cup vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoon dawn.

It works well in 180 seconds but does require lube.

 

[straightShot]

A couple of tablespoons of wash and wax in some water in a bucket for a quick soak might be an easy thing to do after tumbling and before drying in my dehydrator.

 

[wcjjr]

In using a rotary tumbler, the brass comes out quite clean. It may be too clean as pistol brass becomes difficult to resize, etc., as friction takes over and I have to really press up on the lever to get the ram to come down and get the brass out of the die.

Does anyone else have this same issue? I'm thinking of running my brass through my vibratory tumbler after they dry just to make them a little bit more slippery.

I use Hornady One Shot case lube even though I do have the carbide dies. It's not necessary but makes the resizing much smoother.

 

[Demi-human]

he would not believe the residue left on the case after wet tumbling was a problem.

Yes, it was the residue left by your polish that was the lubricant, aiding the cases during sizing...
Did it really need a lathe?

A couple of tablespoons of wash and wax in some water in a bucket for a quick soak might be an easy thing to do after tumbling and before drying in my dehydrator.

Or just use the wash-n-wax as the cleaner, with Lemishine. And a short spray of OneShot will have your cases sliding through the Sizer in no time.

 

[ATLDave]

Cleaned the dies yet? DEEP clean the dies.

Oh, man, that is the opposite of what I would suggest.

Carbon is a lubriant. A thin layer of gunpowder residue reduces sticking. Totally clean, bare-metal dies on totally clean, bare-metal brass is going to be the stickiest.

 

[dcloco]

Oh, man, that is the opposite of what I would suggest.

Carbon is a lubriant. A thin layer of gunpowder residue reduces sticking. Totally clean, bare-metal dies on totally clean, bare-metal brass is going to be the stickiest.

If the dies are not cleaned of all previous contaminants, this is quite possibly the issue. Original poster indicates the dies are clean.

 

[Dudedog]

You wouldn't fill a bucket with filthy black water

Yep, water sure comes out nasty even if the brass going in looks fairly clean.....

 

[ATLDave]

If the dies are not cleaned of all previous contaminants, this is quite possibly the issue. Original poster indicates the dies are clean.

Most "contaminants" likely to get into dies will reduce friction.

If I'm sizing some new brass or brass that someone else has cleaned squeaky-clean, and I start to get sticking, I'll run some merely-dry-tumbled brass through the die to restore a light film of "contaminants" on the carbide surface. Sticking/resistance greatly reduces. I do not want my sizing dies squeaky clean. I want a thin film of carbon.