Building a 22WMR from scratch

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Traffer

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Anyone out there have advise about this project;
I am building a 22WMR.
I bought a barrel from a Marlin Model 60 22lr and reamed it to accept a 22WMR.
So I also bought a piece of schedule 80 pipe with 3/4" id. I reamed it out so it was more true to round and I turned the barrel taper just a bit to make it straight at the chamber end. At this time the barrel is just a bit too tight to fit in the pipe. My plan is to heat the pipe and drive the barrel in for a good fit, then pin it. the original plan was to weld a pivot lug onto the pipe before attaching it to the barrel to make a break open action. Which I still may do. But looking at the parts as they are it seems a shame to not use the pipe extension as a part of the receiver. So, now I am thinking about making a trap door action out of it. That would seem to me to be the simplest way to go here. I also purchased a trigger/hammer assembly from an old Noble model 80 shotgun. I think I could incorporate that into the design. This is not going to be for match shooting. I just want something to test reloading 22WMR with. I know it will be crude. I hope none of the fine gunsmiths here will take exception to my neanderthal approach to this.
Any advise?.....Don't worry I am strapped in.
 
Even easier than Trapdoor type breech, how about a Snyder type side hindged block? That would seem to be the easiest mechanism to fabricate IMHO and would be plenty strong enough to handle WMR pressures. Be sure to take pics and keep us appraised of your progress should you proceed.:)
 
Yes the snyder would be a little easier than a trap door. Good idea. I will have to see what route I will go when the trigger assembly gets here and I look at how to incorporate that into it. I am supposed to get a metal lathe today. Couldn't find anyone to go with me though and probably wont fit into my little Honda so I might have to wait another day. Yay. 18" working lathe with 3 jaw chuck for $125. Been looking for a year for this kind of deal. So excited I could hardly sleep last night. wooohooo.
 
I not know if you could make an entire rifle as easy as you could make a barrel work on a break open action.

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Just remember with your rimfire, you will want to offset the firing pin from the bore CL.
 
Very nice work. I was afraid to weld to the barrel. That is why I went to the piece of pipe sleeve pinned on with the welding done on the pipe prior to attaching to the barrel. Had I known that I could weld the barrel, I would have welded the lug to the barrel as you have. I do not have a mill so my work will be much much more crude. But I figured if I use enough steel I can get away with crude and still be safe.
 
Most all of them are welded these days. Even the expensive custom barrels.

There are a few folks that thread a "stub" that would work fine in your application and be pretty easy to change barrels.

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Might be a possibility if you are worried about your welding technique messing something up, you could weld first, then machine.

You can use a lathe as a mill it's just not a easy.
 
Buy a milling vise for it and make sure you've plenty of time and patience to go with it.
 
Does the .22 Mag .224 bullet shoot well in the .222 bores? In the older convertibles there were pressure and accuracy concerns.:confused:
 
Good question. I do believe that the bore of a 22lr is smaller than that of a 22WMR and that the revolvers that shoot both have bores that are sloppy for a 22lr. The barrel that I have was pitted so I lapped it with compound. I haven't slugged it to see just how much I took off but it is definitely larger than it was. So I am not concerned about it being too small.
 
Ugh, the guy I was going to buy the lathe from backed out of the deal. I couldn't get it right away because I have a little Honda Civic and couldn't round up a truck today. He said he would hold it for me but then called back and said he changed his mind about selling it. Bummer.
 
Should have at least stopped by and bought it. You can rent a truck at Homedepot
 
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