Burned 223 case ruined or not?

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BLACKFIN

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Hello guys,

last night i did a batch of about 500 223 cases and set the oven at 250 for 15 mins to dry them and went to bed... well the stupid timer didn’t turn off the oven and it ran all night. Now all cases look burned. Is it just cosmetic or I accidentally annealed the living lights out if it.

regular brass on top, burned brass on bottom.
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I would suggest loading a few, see if they split. If not, go for it. You might consider annealing it, might make them last longer.

Good Luck
 
You're going to be okay, as said, purely cosmetic.
I agree. Chromatic dispersion from oxide vapor deposition.
That means the oven needs cleaning.:D

They'll probably stay that color forever now that it's been baked on.
A long walnut or a few minutes in the stainless tumbler will get them as new.
I freaked out when I did the same thing to two hundred, $2 a piece, 50AE cases. All a pretty blue and army green.:oops:
They only lasted the one cycle like that, but I kinda liked it. All blue, or all green, would be neat not rainbow mixed. Blue would be easy to find in the grass.

To anneal brass it has to get red hot, just getting it hot doesn't change anything in the brasses crystalline structure.

Above 450° for twelve to sixteen hours will begin to soften brass.
The hotter it is the quicker it anneals. Just seconds at 7-800°.
Brass will become dead soft and Zinc will cook out of the brass before it gets red hot. Dead soft brass has no spring, and no bullet hold. Brass can be cooked, even in a kitchen oven. Much easier with a torch. Just this time it wasn’t.;)
I learned all this when I was contemplating having to buy five hundred more cases to even get any.:D
 
What you are seeing is probably grease that evaporated once the oven got hot, and condensed on the case.


Brass Annealing from Handloader’s Manual
Early Naramore, Major Ordnance Dept Reserve, Small Arms Publishing , 1937

“The best and surest way of drying cases is with the use of artificial heat, but care must be taken not to overheat them, as too much heat will soften the brass and may render it incapable of withstanding normal pressures. Most modern stoves, whether electric, gas, or coal, have oven thermometers that are, at least, fairly accurate. For stoves sold in the United States, these thermometers register degrees Fahrenheit and brass can be heated up to 428 degrees Fahrenheit without undergoing any change in its grain structure. For drying cases it is best to keep the temperature as low as 300 degrees. This heat is amply high for the purpose and offers a liberal allowance for any inaccuracy of the thermometer. If you oven has no thermometer, one can be purchased at small expense in almost any department or five and ten cent store. The thermometer should be placed near the cases as the temperature will not be the same in all parts of the oven. It is also well to place the cases on one of the sliding shelves or racks, away from the bottom of the oven, or the heating element if it is an electric stove.”

I doubt anyone has coal fired ovens anymore; this was written in 1937.

Major Naramore worked in an era when the Army actually made cartridges and had research labs. Today everything is contracted out and data sharing just does not exist between contractors or anyone else. But then, he could call up an Army buddy and find out within the system whom had material data on cartridge cases.

I put my oven on low, and in a half hour or so, my “five and dime” store thermometers read 212F, and doesn’t go any higher. Since water boils at 212F (at sea level) I know my brass is dry. I don’t set the oven any higher than warm because all the grease in the oven evaporates on my brass.

Basically, keep temperatures low and you won't anneal the brass. Annealing the brass is bad. If the case head gets soft, it will blow, and that could ruin your pistol or your rifle action. Might put out an eye

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I have been using the toaster oven more of late, I pour rifle brass into a steel colander ( just the right size for the toaster oven) and turn the thing to warm. Which is about 150 F on the dial. A half hour later, all the brass is dry, and too hot to handle. So I pick up the colander and empty the brass into something that won't melt.

These are freshly annealed cartridges, dropped in water because they will melt carpet if they hit the floor. To dry them, I put them on a toaster oven sheet, and put them in the toaster oven, set the thing on warm, and wait. They get about 200 F.

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Brass anneals slightly below 700 degrees, no where close to the red spectrum. I am a little tone blind and it appears blue to me at that heat. Copper and copper alloys oxide quickly and heat accelerates the process. The color of the brass in the OP is probably a little oxidation from the prolonged 250 degree heat and should have no effect on the strength of the metal.
 
Brass certainly does not have to get red hot to anneal and I advise to not apply heat to the point the case glows at all.

That said, 250 F isn’t going to do it, even over night.
 
…That said, 250 F isn’t going to do it, even over night.

No, but has the OP put a trusted thermometer in the oven to confirm that the maximum temperature actually is 250 F? We already know that the oven timer is defective. Most ovens are not precision instruments and will rise above the desired temperature before settling down to the “set” temperature - which may not be what you think it is. Until the OP knows the maximum temperature his oven achieves he would be wise not to load that brass.





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Annealing is for necks only. Never anneal case heads. Using an oven is a very bad idea. Use a torch w case heads submerged in water.
 
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