Case length gauge (44 magnum)?

[KenC]

Inasmuch as I will be crimping into a cannelure that will always be at the same vertical height above the shell holder (as set by the seating plug height), the length of my cases is critical to ensure a uniform crimp -- which I will need for use my titanium 44 magnum hand canon.

I have been checking every case in a batch with a digital caliper and trimming to the shortest keeper in the batch.

Is there a simpler way to ensure that case length is tolerable? The gauges I see for sale check that a round will chamber, not that case length is OK.

Ken C

 

[mcb]

Wilson makes case length gauge that will tell you if you case is too long or too short according to SAAMI.

 

[Varminterror]

I generally go through a tedious but relatively quick process of identifying my shortest case. I size all cases, then I pick up one, lock vernier calipers at its length, then progress through all of the others. Any longer cases go in one pile, for shorter, I shorten the calipers. Eventually, I get through the entire set and I have my shortest case length locked on the calipers. Anything under a specified minimum trim length, I’ll set aside in another group, so I do have a “floor” for my minimum. If I have a LOT of below-spec cases, then I might deign to trim all to that length.

I used to catalog and sort brass from shortest to longest, and it doesn’t take terribly much longer, but it does take time. Ultimately, I just didn’t see the value in the long run from culling out a handful of short cartridges and trimming to my “bulk standard.” Now I just cut down to the shortest above minimum trim spec and roll on.

 

[Typetwelve]

I'd just use the actual revolver. A 44 case gauge is one of those things that I purchased...and quickly figured out that I don't need. I only have a couple of 44's, but one is a Bulldog with a short cylinder. Once I figured out what OAL it want's, I just load 'em to that OAL and never have any issues.

 

[drband]

I trimmed all my .44mag brass (new starline and range pickup) 1X with a Lee case gauge/trimmer and set my seating & crimp dies. I don’t plan to trim that brass again. again.

 

[mdi]

My opinion; I have been reloading my favorite cartridge since '88, 44 Magnum, and have yet to trim a case. I did measure mixed brass cases once and found out of 50-60 cases there was only about .005"-.007" difference in case length. I always seat bullets to the crimp groove or cannalure and disregard the book OAL. I own 5, 44 Magnums and have developed good accurate loads with my untrimmed, "who knows OAL?" brass (I often got 2" groups @ 25 yards with my Dam Wesson shooting cast 429421s over Unique with my "who knows" handloads). A few thousandths of an inch difference is irrelevant to crimp/accuracy for revolver handloads and I crimped with stock roll crimps, Redding Profile crimps and lately a Lee collet crimp (good loads were with stock roll crimp and Redding crimp)......

 

[drband]

(I often got 2" groups @ 25 yards with my Dam Wesson shooting cast 429421s over Unique with my "who knows" handloads)

That’s a keeper!

 

[Toprudder]

May not be what you are asking for, but for 44mag I prefer crimping with the Lee collet style crimping die (NOT the same as the FCD). Trim length is not critical for the collet crimper.

 

[Stubert]

If you use the Lee collet die, case length is not an issue. I have never trimmed my 44 brass. I have been reloading for 40 yrs.

 

[ATLDave]

How much variation in case length are you talking about?

I did a little straight-walled pistol case trimming early in my reloading career. I never found it to have any wonderful effect on accuracy or anything else, so I quit doing it. Now, I never did any long-range silhouette games where I'm trying to hit targets at 200 yards with a pistol (though I have shot steel at 100-150 a number of times)... but I doubt that's your plan with an alloy-framed revolver, either. Perhaps you will get some benefit from it that I was unable to avail myself of.

 

[Reloadron]

Inasmuch as I will be crimping into a cannelure that will always be at the same vertical height above the shell holder (as set by the seating plug height), the length of my cases is critical to ensure a uniform crimp -- which I will need for use my titanium 44 magnum hand canon.

I have been checking every case in a batch with a digital caliper and trimming to the shortest keeper in the batch.

Is there a simpler way to ensure that case length is tolerable? The gauges I see for sale check that a round will chamber, not that case length is OK.

Ken C

If I am concerned I just make sure they are all uniform and trimmed to length. All I use is a case trimmer and my calipers which have done just fine.

Ron

 

[RealGun]

I check everything with calipers. I have two nominals, 1.265 and 1.275, both +.005-.004. I have not seen any as high as the spec of 1.285. Each group has its own expand and crimp setting. I don't load to COL numbers, only how the crimp looks. I use the same numbers in .357 Magnum, where I have one gun that requires the shorter length. In 44 Mag I have a rifle and a Super Blackhawk that are not particular about chambering. I care about the quality of the crimp as a matter of craft, not necessarily any shooting result, which none of my shooting would really test.

 

[whughett]

As all straight wall pistol rimmed l cases head space on the rim the effect of a few thousands of length on a seated and crimped bullet would be slight indeed, primarily where one is trying to equal the distance from bullet to forcing cone in a revolver.
An average shooter like my self would be hard out to see any benefits in the performance.
Not knocking those that do, this hobby has many levels of perfection.

Like some here many many thousands of hand loads and I have never trimmed a rimmed pistol case.

Rimless, a different story perhaps.

I just load and shoot them until the case splits.

 

[whughett]

In re-reading the thread it seems to be more related to accurate crimping than to actual on target performance which can be a result of velocity and powder efficiency which could be a result of crimping, especially in Magnums using slow burning powders.
Good points it seems. After so many years of loading I find I do it by feel, ie: the ram on the press doesn’t cam over. I also avoid Magnum loads as I suck with them and paper punching is all I do.