Chamber locks for Citori, or something else?

[Old Kinderhook]

I am very new to this activity, so please forgive my ignorance. I've looked through this forum and others, but have not found an answer to this particular question. Any guidance will be appreciated.

I recently purchased a Browning Citori Satin Hunter on clearance at Dicks Sporting Goods. This O/U included Omega chamber locks, which don't appear to provide any resistance/support for the firing pins. Now, I understand from reading elsewhere that Citoris should not be dry fired. Am I to presume then that I should be storing this shotgun locked and cocked? Or should I forget the chamber locks and get a trigger lock and snap caps? Or something else entirely.

First, a couple items to help clarify my need:

1. A gun safe is on the procurement list, but is not feasible in the short term.

2. I don't have kids (I agree with the superiority of education over locks), but I do want the firearm secured from guests and the children of guests.

3. I am not under the delusion that either trigger or chamber locks will thwart a theft.

4. Although a city dweller, home invasion is not a particular concern of mine; so rapidly removing a lock in the dark is not important in this instance.

 

[esheato]

Welcome!

Now I may shoot a lot of clays, but honestly, I'm not sure of the "proper" response. I just triple check the gun is empty and dry fire after a range session. Been doing it this way for ohhhh....10 years maybe.

If in doubt, snap caps are cheap and readily available.

 

[451 Detonics]

I just looked at those locks...I know I won't ever be using them. I would think you should be able to lock the break down case the gun came in. Dry firing the gun a limited amount shouldn't bother it, I would dry fire, break it down and lock it in the case. A-Zoom snap caps aren't that expensive tho...

 

[oneounceload]

Besides the AZOOMS, which are decent training dummy rounds that make for decent snap caps, you could also use a piece of wood when the gun is disassembled (as in for cleaning). Place the wood block against the breech face and pull the trigger. I have also taken old hulls that I cut down by half and used rubber pencil erasers in the primer space. I color the head so I can tell quickly they aren't live rounds

 

[rcmodel]

when the gun is disassembled (as in for cleaning). Place the wood block against the breech face and pull the trigger.

Not sure how that will work on a Browning Citori?
But my Win 101 & Ithaca SKB don't want go back together un-cocked.

My personal view is, it won't hurt any quality O&U to dry-fire it once & awhile to put it away.
Or, it won't hurt any quality O&U to store it cocked.

Springs don't wear out from being left compressed.
They wear out from repeated cycling over & over again.

Dry-firing for hours on end at a spot on the wall is a whole nother thing that might eventually break a firing pin.

rc

 

[oneounceload]

RC - if you cock the gun before disassembly, the firing pins can be released using the method I described....(got the idea from my gunsmith, an elder gent with many decades of doing it). He often does it to also check the firing pins to make sure they are protruding enough if there are firing problems.

 

[rcmodel]

I understand that.

But I think the cocking cams on my 101 & SKB like to find the hammer levers cocked when you put the barrels back on.

Must admit it's been a lot of years since I tried it, or even worried about un-cocking them for storage.
I either pull the trigger, bump the butt on the floor to reset the trigger on the SKB, and pull it again.

Or more likely, I don't un-cock them at all.
Thats worked fine since 1970, and it will still probably work long after I am gone.

rc

 

[Old Kinderhook]

Terrific! Thank you for the recommendations. I think the consensus is that I shouldn't dry fire gratuitously, but not to fret too much about it if performed sparingly; snap caps are generally a good practice; and it doesn't matter if the gun is cocked or not.

If anyone else wants to chime in, I'm all ears.