Changing AR-15 trigger guard

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DoubleTapDrew

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Whats the best way to remove the stock trigger guard on an AR-15 (LMT lower)? I picked up a magpul enhanced guard to install. The front was no problem but the rear roll pin is in there good. I got a standard punch set from the hardware store and 1/8" is the proper size I believe, but I don't want to hammer on it too hard and bugger up the roll pin and end up having to drill it out or egg the hole. Light taps with a deadblow hammer on the punch aren't budging it. Do I need a special roll pin punch or can this be done without one?
Seems this should be easier to do than it's going!
 
You SHOULD use a roll-pin punch -- you may be expanding it as you are hitting it. But, getting it out, yes, it should just go. Put the other end back in place. Make sure you put double layers of decent duct-tape tightly around hole before you punch it -- that SHOULD absorb one good "skip." Expect you will need a new roll pin anyway. TAP away making sure gun is NOT moving down as you strike -- the energy needs to go into the pin. Maybe use a size smaller steel punch (than 1/8"!) -- I suspect you may very well be impinging the frame.
Al
 
The magpul trigger guard came with a new roll pin so I'm not worried about hurting the stock one, I just don't want to wedge the stock roll pin in there or hurt the receiver.
 
I put a block of wood under the ear, hopefully that'll help support it. I guess I'll have to buy a roll pin punch set.
 
I used a magazine, or catalog under mine and I had a roll pin punch on hand, so I used that. I guess a standard punch would work if you had the proper size.
 
Got it off with a regular punch since home depot apparently doesn't carry roll pin punches. Now I need to get the new one in. I'll probably buy a set of punches anyway since I'd like to build a few lowers.
 
Drew;
You can get the new one, well, oiled, probably 95% of the way w/out the roll-pin punch using very light taps (don't forget duct tape due to a slipped hammer/punch blow) and an unmoving lower but do NOT try to seat it all the way with a regular punch -- wait till u get the roll-pin punches and then clean it up.
Al
 
Thats where I am now. I am going to wait until I get a roll pin punch before driving it the rest of the way home. I have a feeling I'd screw something up if I keep hitting it with the standard punch.
 
I've replaced several AR trigger guards using a standard 1/8-inch steel punch and a 12 oz ball peen hammer. I usually place the receiver assy on top of 1x4 planks, making sure the opposite side of the trigger guard bracket is securely supported by a 1x4.

To start the roll pin I use gentle taps directly with the hammer. Once I have the pin most of the way through, I turn the receiver over and insert the 1/8-inch punch through the opposite hole to ensure everything is properly aligned before I complete the final installation. I set the pin flush with the steel punch and gentle taps.

Good luck.
 
I assembled mine with a standard punch and just sharpied the end black when I was done. looks fine. but if you're going to do several, I'd get a roll pin punch. maybe harbor freight will have one.
 
If you plan to work on an AR or many other types of guns, a small set of rollpin punches will be very valuable.
 
Another good tip: Use a set of parallel jaw pliers to push the roll pins in instead of using punches. Much better control and no worry about missing. BSW
 
I changed mine out the "Redneck" Way. I didnt have a punch around and i was hurrying to get it out so i tried several different things to use as a punch.

I used an Allen wrench and i hit the back side of it (Worked pretty good just not alot of room to work with) I also used a little Philips screw driver (Stuck it in the hole and the tip of the screw driver helped push the old pin right out.)

After it was about 1/4 or so hanging out, i took vise grips and clamped onto that roll pin and twisted it out little by little. You can say i had to throw that old pin away but like mentioned before, the Magpul came with a new one any ways. :)
 
As said, a pair of pliers can install one. There are tutorials on line using a pair of taped up Vice grips. With a repetition of tighten and squeeze, it gets pressed in without hammer blows or messing up the ear.

For the worse case scenario, JB weld and some button head torx screws will fancy it up.
 
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