Cleaning Bore

[Milkmaster]

Ya, cross-threading those fine threads would be a real pain and probably ruin either the barrel or tube threads...meaning either a replacement tube or it goes in for a repair .

Stay safe.

Yep! Like anything mechanical, you need to know what you are doing and use the right tool. This one actually is a multi tool choke wrench etc. Made for the Beretta shotguns. This one works on my Mobil chokes. Just unscrew the brass cap and use it to chase the threads in the barrel. The other end is the choke wrench. It's shown in the picture below.

 

[The Rattler]

I, for one, clean my guns after every trap, skeet, or 5-Stand outing. That’s been the case the last 5 years. Don’t ask me to confess my practices before that.

I use Safariland CLP, usually let it sit overnight before running a brass or stiff nylon cleaning brush through the bore, followed by as many passes with patches as needed. Finally, I spray the exterior metal with Barricade.

I’ve never noticed any plastic fowling after all steps described in cleaning the bore. I shoot cheap shells that are “dirty,” but no problems so far. I’ve often wondered why I don’t seem to have plastic fowling that I seem to see complained about in these forums. Maybe I just don’t know what it looks like.

BTW, I also clean the interior and exterior of chokes after every use together wit the threads in the barrel.

 

[entropy]

How often and to what extent should I be cleaning the bore of a gun that's getting shot several times a week? Chrome lined, if that makes a difference. Is there a generally accepted rule of thumb that powder residue needs to be cleaned out every XXX rds and a plastic solvent every XXX rds? Something else?

Any cleaning practices that should be avoided?

Thanks.

Never use WD-40!

Depends on the type of action. O/U's and SxS's need less cleaning than semi autos, (and again this separates out by type; an A5 barrel will need less cleaning than an 1100.) The action of an O/U or SxS should be cleaned yearly (or if a piece of debris reders it inoperable), a semi or pump more frequently. (Powder residue and debris gets blown into either type of action much more than break-open actions.)
As for choke tubes, if there is wad material buildup in them, Slip2000 makes an excellent product for that.

I have an 1100 Competition Synthetic that I tear down after every week's shooting session. (About 4-10 rounds of Trap) But I am a gunsmith, and got my start working on 1100's, <drag queen voice> so it's old hat to me, honey.</drag queen voice>

 

[Wis-Harpo]

I was told by my dad years ago to clean whatever I shot after I was done shooting. I have 2 Rem 870's, 2 Rem 1100's, and a 1 month old Beretta Silver Pigeon Sporting Clays. I feel bad if I don't clean them the day I shoot them, or at the very least the next day. Anal I guess, but my 1997 1100 20 gauge Light Weight looks like new, with a couple of wood dings .

 

[Bill460]

I clean my Trap guns after every outing. I have compressed air, so I start my washing out the barrel breech block and receiver of my Citori O/U and BT-99 with clean Kerosene, (available in one gallon jugs at Tractor Supply), and a stiff bristled paint brush. I do the same with the receiver of my pumps and semi autos.

I just be sure to hold the butt stock higher, so all the Kerosene drains away from the stock, and out the end of the receiver.

This washes all the dirt and old lubricant out, and after a good blowing with compressed air. They are 100% clean and dry. Then I take a Super Unscented Tampon, soak it with Hoppes #9, and push it down the bore with a cleaning rod.

Tampons work the best for this because they're larger and more absorbent than those 12 ga. cleaning patches, that I've found to be all but worthless. Just be sure to buy unscented tampons. You don't want a shotgun that smells like, "Summer Rain".

After the Hoppes #9 soaked tampon, I follow with a bronze brush. (I don't like Stainless Steel "Tornado" type brushes because they can scratch the bore). Then another Hoppes #9 soaked Tampon, followed by a dry Tampon. After that, I run an oil soaked Tampon down the bore several times to give the inside surface a nice, light coating of oil. They fit just as nice as those "Mops" that screw on to the end of your cleaning rod, but they're far cheaper, and they are disposable.

On my BT-99 and O/U's I'll lightly grease the hinge pins, contact points, and trunnions. Reassemble everything, and I'm good to go. With my semi auto and pump shotguns I use oil instead of grease. But otherwise they get the same wash and blow dry treatment. It's unbelievable what will wash out of these guns with the Kerosene treatment. (If the smell of Kerosene bothers you, you can use WD-40). It comes in gallon jugs as well. You are going to blow everything dry with the compressed air, so the WD-40 won't gum up. It has a sweeter, better smell housewives are less likely to b!tch and moan about.

I usually remove screw in chokes after every 400 targets or so. Give them a Kerosene wash and blow dry. Then coat the threads with Loctite C5-A copper anti seize, run them in and out a few times to disperse the anti seize throughout the threads, snug them down, and that's it.

 

[The Rattler]

I clean the bores after each use, usually 50-100 rounds in various clay sports. I clean as much of the receiver as is easily accessible. I use Safariland Breakfree CLP and let it soak for at least 2 hours, but usually overnight. I apply Barricade spray to the exterior of the metal, wiping off the excess.

 

[FL-NC]

I keep it pretty simple yet consistent. I have 3 shotguns- a 870, a Mossberg 930, and a Ithaca 37. On all 3, I run a damp boresnake with mpro7 solvent through 3 times, then I put a coat of motor oil on the outside metal with a small paint brush, and 2-3 drops of motor oil on the bolt, then cycle it a few times every time I am finished using it. The mossberg (automatic) gets the piston wiped off. On the pump guns, the process takes less than 5 minutes. On the auto, a minute or 2 more.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

A piece of lambswool makes a great external oil applicator.

 

[Rex in OTZ]

I think shooting a fair number of 1oz slugs usally foul a bore more than any other type of 12gauge ammo.
The plastic wad abrades off in the first 7 inches past the chamber.
Bore solvent wont tackle the plastic.
Only soaking with a very effective penetrating oil to break the pastic adhesion to the barrel.
A power drill with brass brush are the best way to get that cooked on plastic out.
If your using a bore patches, mops and snakes wont even phase slug wad plastic fouling.
Only time, good penetrating lube and brass powerd brush is even going to thin that mess out.
I usally am stuck cleaning dirty shotguns after 12ga qulifications at work consider each shooter could fore on average 20-30 rounds per qualification.
There are a few that can get by only firing 12 rounds.
The new remington slug barrels are the worst.
Their bores have a satin finish inside as compared to mossberg, browning and benelli brand barrels that seem more shiney as they received a better polishing at the factory?
So I guess you could use metal polish and a bore mop and try to polish the bore some.

 

[entropy]

Try Slip 2000 Choke Cleaner; run a very wet patch up through the bore, let it soak in for @15 minutes, then run a Tornado brush through it for a bit. The plastic should come right out. I shoot between 4 and 10 rounds for Trap one night a week The traps are only open on Thursdays, I shoot a practice or two waiting for my team to show, then shoot leagues, then shoot Aniie Oakleys. The Choke cleaner gets plastic out of the bore and the choke better than anything but running a brush on a drill, and much easier.

 

[gralewaj]

For shotguns, this has worked very well for me: Take an 18" piece of 3/16" wood dowel and wrap 0000 steel wool around it. Insert this cleaning rod into your power drill and spin it down the barrel from the breech until you feel the barrel warming up. For barrels longer than 18" just insert from the muzzle end also.
You can put a slightly thicker pad on a 10" dowel and use as a chamber brush in the drill to remove any built up wad fouling. Light coat of oil on any blued or parkerized surface and you're done. Be sure to clean powder from the trigger group and the receiver as necessary.

No solvents required in shotgun barrels unless its rifled.

 

[Boattale]

Never use WD-40!

Depends on the type of action. O/U's and SxS's need less cleaning than semi autos, (and again this separates out by type; an A5 barrel will need less cleaning than an 1100.) The action of an O/U or SxS should be cleaned yearly (or if a piece of debris reders it inoperable), a semi or pump more frequently. (Powder residue and debris gets blown into either type of action much more than break-open actions.)
As for choke tubes, if there is wad material buildup in them, Slip2000 makes an excellent product for that.

I have an 1100 Competition Synthetic that I tear down after every week's shooting session. (About 4-10 rounds of Trap) But I am a gunsmith, and got my start working on 1100's, <drag queen voice> so it's old hat to me, honey.</drag queen voice>

Oh forever more. If ever there was a more widespread old wive's tale I've done the research and cannot find it. Don't spray anything in/on a firearm, fishing reel or sewing machine and leave it do dry. Use it and wipe it. Thin film! Been doing it for 50 years. Not one problem ever!

 

[Scribner]

Not sure you’re telling us enough. An 870? At 200 - 300 rounds per week, Snake the inside & wipe down the outside almost every time. Be thorough once every couple months. 1100? The same plus the holes that bleed gas. Thoroughly once a month. I reload & try to use clean powders.

 

[entropy]

Oh forever more. If ever there was a more widespread old wive's tale I've done the research and cannot find it. Don't spray anything in/on a firearm, fishing reel or sewing machine and leave it do dry. Use it and wipe it. Thin film! Been doing it for 50 years. Not one problem ever!

Keep thinking that. I've made a lot of money on guys that think WD-40 is a gun lube.

 

[Boattale]

Keep thinking that. I've made a lot of money on guys that think WD-40 is a gun lube.

Did they use it and wipe to thin film?

 

[Milkmaster]

Recently I took a chance and bought an old Winchester 1300 for a song that the owner said would only fire sometimes. Knowing this model gun well, I took it home and disassembled the bolt in just a few minutes suspecting a broken firing pin. The bolt smelled just like WD40. The WD40 had dried up and became gooey so the firing pin & spring moved like molasses. I wish I had taken a picture. So, I cleaned everything well and now it shoots like a new gun. Now, I am not on the train that says WD40 is the cause of every gun problem known to man, but in this case it was the culprit for sure. Part of the fault I put on the owner for spraying it into the workings more liberally than he should have. I have used WD40 when I lacked another choice. But in general it is not my first choice for firearm lube. There are too many more suitable choices to be had.

 

[Boattale]

Recently I took a chance and bought an old Winchester 1300 for a song that the owner said would only fire sometimes. Knowing this model gun well, I took it home and disassembled the bolt in just a few minutes suspecting a broken firing pin. The bolt smelled just like WD40. The WD40 had dried up and became gooey so the firing pin & spring moved like molasses. I wish I had taken a picture. So, I cleaned everything well and now it shoots like a new gun. Now, I am not on the train that says WD40 is the cause of every gun problem known to man, but in this case it was the culprit for sure. Part of the fault I put on the owner for spraying it into the workings more liberally than he should have. I have used WD40 when I lacked another choice. But in general it is not my first choice for firearm lube. There are too many more suitable choices to be had.

I get that. WD40 and other products can dry out and become thick and gooey. It's not a substitute for good cleaning practice. But used properly, it's just fine. Any lube in any firearm should be used sparingly and wiped to a thin film.

I use WD40 or Rem oil sprayed in places that aren't easy to get to, then blow it out with compressed air if I can't wipe it.

From former USMC armorer.

 

[entropy]

Did they use it and wipe to thin film?

No, they'd spray it on thick. Then spray more on when they'd have a malfunction. Thinning it out on the surface would work much better. blowing excess out of tight spots with air makes sense, too. I was an Army Armorer, I still prefer BreakFree CLP. But thanks for the tip on how to use WD-40, never know when it might come in handy.