Howdy folks!
Got a Q or two for those knowledgeable in the Combat Elite.
The example I am looking at has the unusual FLGR with the angle cut on the breech-end button that interacts with a step on the link pin. There's name for this design which escapes my current dementia. Original or not? Worth it or not? It has also been to Pachmayr, which is one way of dating and determining provenance, but it also has a unique beavertail (perhaps proprietary to Pachmayr?) and a blended in (grip screw mounted) magwell.
For those who have not handcycled a 1911 with the above *enhanced* design for positive lockup, it feels strange because the slide almost seems to hit a shock absorber in the last 1/32" of return to battery. On a more practical level, the device makes it more difficult to reassemble the slide onto the frame because the slide must be pulled forward that last 1/32", so the bushing can do what it needs to do. Interestingly, snapping on the grip safety isn't enough for the bushing to clear the FLGR. No special tools needed, just a different handhold.
Finally, can I assume the new-fangled (now, old-fangled) lockup design is for accuracy? In the interest of easier servicing, is it a straight swap back to the original recoil system? Or is the barrel/slide assembly somehow tuned/fitted, making it best to leave it as is? I have no interest in changing out a staked-in linkpin, so that defines what my capabilities are.
Have I mentioned, I'm no pistolsmith? And I thank you in advance for your advice.
MR2
Got a Q or two for those knowledgeable in the Combat Elite.
The example I am looking at has the unusual FLGR with the angle cut on the breech-end button that interacts with a step on the link pin. There's name for this design which escapes my current dementia. Original or not? Worth it or not? It has also been to Pachmayr, which is one way of dating and determining provenance, but it also has a unique beavertail (perhaps proprietary to Pachmayr?) and a blended in (grip screw mounted) magwell.
For those who have not handcycled a 1911 with the above *enhanced* design for positive lockup, it feels strange because the slide almost seems to hit a shock absorber in the last 1/32" of return to battery. On a more practical level, the device makes it more difficult to reassemble the slide onto the frame because the slide must be pulled forward that last 1/32", so the bushing can do what it needs to do. Interestingly, snapping on the grip safety isn't enough for the bushing to clear the FLGR. No special tools needed, just a different handhold.
Finally, can I assume the new-fangled (now, old-fangled) lockup design is for accuracy? In the interest of easier servicing, is it a straight swap back to the original recoil system? Or is the barrel/slide assembly somehow tuned/fitted, making it best to leave it as is? I have no interest in changing out a staked-in linkpin, so that defines what my capabilities are.
Have I mentioned, I'm no pistolsmith? And I thank you in advance for your advice.
MR2