CZ hammer kit question

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Carter

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I'm looking in to getting one of the hammer kits from Cajun Gun Works and am looking for some information from you more expierenced shooters.

The two kits I'm looking at are Kit 2 and Kit 4 (decocker only kit).

From what I can tell the only real difference is the adjustable sear that comes with Kit 2. How much difference would that make, and how much would it effect the trigger pull between the two kits?

I'm also looking at getting the 13 lb hammer spring to help with the double action, but not have any possible light primer strikes.


Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I have no idea how to install these after market pieces and I have heard the phantom trigger assembly is a bit complicated so I would probably have a gun smith install everything for me so I don't botch it. This is my daily carry piece as well.
 
You want the Kit 4 for your Phantom. You should be fine using the 13lb hammer spring. If you experience any light strikes with it or if you just want to be safe, pick up an extended firing pin.
 
Why not just send it to Schmecky (Cajun Gun Works)? He does fantastic work. I have known him from www.czfirearms.us for a few years now. He is an excellent gunsmith/machinist.

If you can wait a little longer, he is coming out with a newly designed hammer for roughly the same price as the recut hammer. Really a nice looking piece.
 
You need kit 4. As stated before, talk to him before you do anything. He is awesome to deal with. I think I played 20 questions with him before I placed my first order for parts. He never hesitated or got short with me and all my questions. I have since ordered 3 hammer and/or trigger kits from him. His work is great.

The pics I have seen of his new hammer seems to have great potential. Might be worth the wait for you..........
 
Carter said:
From what I can tell the only real difference is the adjustable sear that comes with Kit 2. How much difference would that make, and how much would it effect the trigger pull between the two kits?
Click to expand...

None...

The adjustable sear is adjustable for ease of installation, not pull. However, mine is in a man safety model.
 
I was looking at that site also. I'm having a hard time understanding what the set screw on the sear does.

I've seen pictures of taking out the sear cage on the decocker models and I would for sure buy the slave pin kit they sell
 
hAkron,

When you install a competition hammer, you have to fit the safety to the sear by filing/stoning down the safety leg of the sear. What the set screw on the adjustable sear does is make it so that you don't have to fit the sear...instead you install the sear in the sear cage, put the gun back together, and adjust it so that the safety works. Before this sear was available, you would do some filing, reassemble everything, see if the safety works, and then tear it all back down again to file some more. It could take a few attempts (I think mine was around 4) to get it right. If you took too much material off, your safety wouldn't engage and you had to order a new sear.

Here is a picture of how we had to do it in the "Old Days" of a few months ago.

http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=19576.0
 
Carter,

You have been given good advice by the previous posters. You cannot use KIT2 in your decocker, since this is designed for the DA/SA CZ's only. KIT4 can be ordered cut for self-defense or competition/target (no extra charge).

A very popular combo is my KIT4 and SPGK1 spring kit. The only thing I would caution you on is the decockers can be difficult to dis & reassemble. There are several links that I can send you that detail the procedure. You can e-mail me and request these at: [email protected]


viking499,

You don't ever ask me for anything anymore . . . . .
 
viking499,

You don't ever ask me for anything anymore . . . . .
Click to expand...

Because customer service was so great the first time around. That and You took all my money the first time around. This direct deposit crap has made it harder to replenish the gun fund as quick as I could before direct deposit.....:banghead:
 
jameslovesjammie said:
hAkron,

When you install a competition hammer, you have to fit the safety to the sear by filing/stoning down the safety leg of the sear. What the set screw on the adjustable sear does is make it so that you don't have to fit the sear...instead you install the sear in the sear cage, put the gun back together, and adjust it so that the safety works. Before this sear was available, you would do some filing, reassemble everything, see if the safety works, and then tear it all back down again to file some more. It could take a few attempts (I think mine was around 4) to get it right. If you took too much material off, your safety wouldn't engage and you had to order a new sear.

Here is a picture of how we had to do it in the "Old Days" of a few months ago.

http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=19576.0
Click to expand...

Good to know. I havent attempted a full take down of any of my CZ's yet, but I did remove the sear cage on my Tanfoglio, which is basically A simplified version with no firing pin block lifter and spring and no safety detent, and that was tricky. I'll bet having to do it a few times in a row is a pain!! Trying to keep the hammer and the trigger in the correc position while installing the safety and tring to keep that pesky sping out of the way is a real trick! Truth be told, I had no reason to remove it, but I wanted to practice for when it comes time to workon the CZ.
 
Thanks for all the information everyone! I've never done any gunsmithing or in depth breakdown of my firearms (other than standard maintenance). I wasn't quite sure what the sear did in this case.


Thanks for responding schmeky. I'm looking at the defense cut since this is my main carry gun. I'll send you an email soon about the procedure.

Would the extended firing pin risk puncturing into the primer with the 13lb hammer spring? I shoot mostly federal HST for SD and winchester ranger nato for practice.

The SPGK1 spring kit is looking pretty tempting as well.
 
Carter,

A large part of my business is doing customization of my parts at no extra charge. I would probably cut your extended FP about .020" shorter than my "normal" extended FP with the 13#'er, if you elected to go this route. One this is for certain, this combo would ignite any primer known to modern man, and still produce a smooth, light 9# DA.
 
Do any of these kits currently work with the P-07 Duty? I've been exploring my options lately as I'm hoping to clean up the trigger pull a bit.
 
cyphrix,

Currently no. However, I have a P0-7 duty enroute to my shop from a customer that has requested I, "do whatever upgrades possbile".

I am excited and should have this P series in a few days.
 
I took apart my phantom and it was a little of a pain to put back together whith the decocker spring. also one thing to know is the triger return spring can jump very far......I had to order another one, spent hours looking for it....:mad::D
 
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