steelyblue
Member
I'm planning on buying a square deal for 45acp. Are there any comments to help me with my decision? Any other products needed to reload with them? How much money will I save reloading?
Dillon square deal B
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ClarkEMyers
Member
Go for it - if you don't like it there won't be much loss turning it.
Must have a scale.
For most purposes a few more things are necessary - for .45 Auto only then case length is seldom a problem - over long - or stretched - bottleneck cases have caused rifles to blow up in people's faces. In .45 Auto most cases start short and stay that way but Murphy rules. I'd like to have a good dial or digital caliper for tracking case length, overall length and case mouth diameter after taper crimping but some loads can be done without as FREX a 185 grain semi-wadcutter seated full diameter just clear of the case mouth and tested for fit in a barrel removed from a pistol and used only with light loads as 3.5 Bullseye. For full power loads tracking dimensions including overall length to begin with and watching for bullet setback on chambering becomes a vital necessity.
I started with a 310 tong tool and a scale myself and compared case length and OAL to factory ammo for a long time but better tooling is safer.
People never save money reloading - but it's usually possible to shoot more for the same money.
Must have a scale.
For most purposes a few more things are necessary - for .45 Auto only then case length is seldom a problem - over long - or stretched - bottleneck cases have caused rifles to blow up in people's faces. In .45 Auto most cases start short and stay that way but Murphy rules. I'd like to have a good dial or digital caliper for tracking case length, overall length and case mouth diameter after taper crimping but some loads can be done without as FREX a 185 grain semi-wadcutter seated full diameter just clear of the case mouth and tested for fit in a barrel removed from a pistol and used only with light loads as 3.5 Bullseye. For full power loads tracking dimensions including overall length to begin with and watching for bullet setback on chambering becomes a vital necessity.
I started with a 310 tong tool and a scale myself and compared case length and OAL to factory ammo for a long time but better tooling is safer.
People never save money reloading - but it's usually possible to shoot more for the same money.
steelyblue
Member
More is better!!!!
Is the powder pre meassured by the loader? If so, why the scale?
Is the powder pre meassured by the loader? If so, why the scale?
Jim Watson
Member
To answer the direct question, the loader delivers powder by volume, but loads are specified by weight. You have to have the scale to adjust the Dillon powder measure by.
To answer the real question, the FIRST thing you need is the book.
The ABCs of Reloading is a good basic text.
You need a data manual. The Lyman Pistol & Revolver Handbook is good, since the SDB only loads pistol calibers. All the powder companies provide free data in print and most on their www.
Dillon has the instruction manuals for their presses on their website, so you can read about it even before it is delivered.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/manuals.html
Study up.
To answer the real question, the FIRST thing you need is the book.
The ABCs of Reloading is a good basic text.
You need a data manual. The Lyman Pistol & Revolver Handbook is good, since the SDB only loads pistol calibers. All the powder companies provide free data in print and most on their www.
Dillon has the instruction manuals for their presses on their website, so you can read about it even before it is delivered.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/manuals.html
Study up.
steelyblue
Member
Thanks, guys. I will do a lot of research before I start reloading. I'm buying a beater 1911 that I will be using to munch on my reloads. I don't want to damage my HD gun. Yall have been very helpful.
Pumpkinheaver
Member
Great press.
DaveInFloweryBranchGA
Member
Just be aware that with the square deal, you can only load pistol rounds, so if you want to load rifle rounds later, you'll have to add another press, which isn't necessarily a bad thing.
Regards,
Dave
Regards,
Dave
Spartacus451
Member
I have an SDB. I also have an LNL. The SDB is okay and will load pistol ammo about as well as the LNL in terms of speed, but it isn't as smooth (quite jerky actually) or ergonomic and you have to run it smooth to make priming occur reliably. This takes more effort and is more tiring so I can only do about 200 rounds a session comfortably. That is fine for many users.
The ergonomics of it are a pretty big deal for me so it is relegated to loading 9MM right now. The SDB is okay if you want a one off press for a single primer size or caliber but it isn't a good multicaliber press. You should expect to add another press later if you really get into reloading and shooting multiple calibers including rifle. The press is nice and compact so it doesn't take much bench space and I don't regret getting it because it is always nice to have more then one press set up and ready to go.
The ergonomics of it are a pretty big deal for me so it is relegated to loading 9MM right now. The SDB is okay if you want a one off press for a single primer size or caliber but it isn't a good multicaliber press. You should expect to add another press later if you really get into reloading and shooting multiple calibers including rifle. The press is nice and compact so it doesn't take much bench space and I don't regret getting it because it is always nice to have more then one press set up and ready to go.
I'd highly recommend One-shot lube on the brass when using the SDB, makes the press much smoother, easier to operate, etc...much less effort.
You'll save a ton of money loading ACP. Plus you can load what you want, when you want!
No "downside" that I can see unless you shoot very little.
You'll save a ton of money loading ACP. Plus you can load what you want, when you want!
No "downside" that I can see unless you shoot very little.
steelyblue
Member
So, besides the SBD, I need a scale for the powder. Do I need a tumbler as well or anything else?
Yes, a tumbler is needed for cleaning if you shoot any amount of rounds.
I'd also recommend a caliper to measure over all length and "width" at the crimp. That lets you know, for sure, your ammo is in spec. You can buy "pocket" sliding ones for $5.00 or cheap digital for $20 or spend $200.
I'd also recommend a caliper to measure over all length and "width" at the crimp. That lets you know, for sure, your ammo is in spec. You can buy "pocket" sliding ones for $5.00 or cheap digital for $20 or spend $200.
retired/lasd
Member
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I have had a SDB for about 12 years, I only load 9mm, 38 and 357. I have never had any problems.
target1911
Member
I have 2 of them. One for 45acp and the other for 9mm. I like them and they work great for me.
If you want to know how much you can save, check this out....
http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp
If you want to know how much you can save, check this out....
http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp
I love my SDB and don't think anything about sitting down and knocking out 500 rounds on it in short order. I load for 9mm/.38/.45/.357.
Have to agree that One Shot lube makes a world of difference, as does any of the dial adapters for the powder adjustment bolt (I use a Mr Dial, but there are many available)
Make sure you buy up some spare primer tubes, as having them loaded before a session greatly increases productivity. Also I recommend the finer grain powders for consistent measurement with Dillon's powder bar.
Have to agree that One Shot lube makes a world of difference, as does any of the dial adapters for the powder adjustment bolt (I use a Mr Dial, but there are many available)
Make sure you buy up some spare primer tubes, as having them loaded before a session greatly increases productivity. Also I recommend the finer grain powders for consistent measurement with Dillon's powder bar.
SASS#23149
Member
the one shot goes on the cases V ERY lightly and can stay on there pretty much,depending on YOUR definition of lightly,lol
I've read where some folks put the cases in a baggy and shoot a quick shot in there and kind of roll them around for a minute or so.e
mount the press very solidly as you'll want to lean into it on the priming stroke.It's smaller size and shorter handle require this,in my opinion.
It sounds like you are very new to this so I"d STRONGLY reccomend you run about a hundred cases thru one at a time to get the fell of what is going on at each station.
With a progressive..or any press...if you THINK you messed up,pull all cases and get back to square one.Double charges can be hazardous to your health.!
I've read where some folks put the cases in a baggy and shoot a quick shot in there and kind of roll them around for a minute or so.e
mount the press very solidly as you'll want to lean into it on the priming stroke.It's smaller size and shorter handle require this,in my opinion.
It sounds like you are very new to this so I"d STRONGLY reccomend you run about a hundred cases thru one at a time to get the fell of what is going on at each station.
With a progressive..or any press...if you THINK you messed up,pull all cases and get back to square one.Double charges can be hazardous to your health.!
Well. IMO, the tumbler is not a necessity...but your cases do need to be clean, not necessiarly polished. You can rinse them of any dirt and grit, and let them air dry on a towel.
Any grit or dirt on the cases can scratch the dies and the cases. A good rinsing in a bucket while swirling the cases around will help eliminate this. Rinse and change the water as needed until the cases and the water are clean.
Get a good reloading manual or two also. You'll soon learn that reading and studying about reloading is fun and informative. Visit the reloading forums and read various posts, you'll learn a lot without even posting. www.handloads.com is an excellent forum. LOTS of info and helpful guys there.
When in doubt, go to a good reloading forum like this one and ask questions. Reloaders are some of the most helpful persons in the gun shooting family.
Welcome to the family!!
Any grit or dirt on the cases can scratch the dies and the cases. A good rinsing in a bucket while swirling the cases around will help eliminate this. Rinse and change the water as needed until the cases and the water are clean.
Get a good reloading manual or two also. You'll soon learn that reading and studying about reloading is fun and informative. Visit the reloading forums and read various posts, you'll learn a lot without even posting. www.handloads.com is an excellent forum. LOTS of info and helpful guys there.
When in doubt, go to a good reloading forum like this one and ask questions. Reloaders are some of the most helpful persons in the gun shooting family.
Welcome to the family!!
Re: One Shot
Personally I lay out the cases I am working with atm (usually about 200) in a plastic pan I keep on the bench and very lightly "dust" them. The lube gets on them, and in them, assisting both sizing and seating.
I've never found a need to remove excess lube after loading. Perhaps I use the can more lightly than some, a little goes a long way. If the cases still feel slightly slick after being loaded, well, then my mags are self-lubricating
Personally I lay out the cases I am working with atm (usually about 200) in a plastic pan I keep on the bench and very lightly "dust" them. The lube gets on them, and in them, assisting both sizing and seating.
I've never found a need to remove excess lube after loading. Perhaps I use the can more lightly than some, a little goes a long way. If the cases still feel slightly slick after being loaded, well, then my mags are self-lubricating
Spartacus451
Member
You don't need to remove the case lube. I have calipers but I never use them. I crimp to remove the flare and load cartridges as long as possible while still chambering and fitting the magazine. I don't actually see a need for calipers for pistol rounds although they are a cheap investment.
It's true you don't need a tumbler but it sure is nice. My time is worth the relatively low cost of the tumbler. I could load single stage while I am at it. The one shot lube helps cut down the force required but that doesn't improve the rough indexing on my press. It is old and high round count and possibly in need of adjustment so that may be a factor.
I like the Lyman manual. One flaw on my SDB is large primer priming. It doesn't work. Period. I have to do it off press. It takes insane impossible force (strained quite badly trying to get it to work) and I still got %10 high primers. CCI was the worst. Small primers go in easy. The large priming system has the most usage (100k rounds) so it may be worn. I called Dillon for help several times and they said GFY push harder it is a known issue.
It's true you don't need a tumbler but it sure is nice. My time is worth the relatively low cost of the tumbler. I could load single stage while I am at it. The one shot lube helps cut down the force required but that doesn't improve the rough indexing on my press. It is old and high round count and possibly in need of adjustment so that may be a factor.
I like the Lyman manual. One flaw on my SDB is large primer priming. It doesn't work. Period. I have to do it off press. It takes insane impossible force (strained quite badly trying to get it to work) and I still got %10 high primers. CCI was the worst. Small primers go in easy. The large priming system has the most usage (100k rounds) so it may be worn. I called Dillon for help several times and they said GFY push harder it is a known issue.
I've been in touch with Dillon a few times, and have never heard anything approaching "GFY". In fact, I'd bet a dollar that if I called them tomorrow and told them my large pistol primer wasn't seating properly, they'd have parts in the mail to me by the end of the day.
Even if they didn't, hey after 100k rounds, it wouldn't kill you to buy a couple of replacement parts. Machines wear, it's part of the game.
FWIW the Large primers on my .45SDB go in like butter.
EDIT: There is also an adjustment in the prming system for proper alignment, you may get better results for nothing more than a few minutes with a screwdriver.
I started with 45 acp as well.
I would strongly recommend you reload using a single stage first before jumping into the multi-stage press.
You can get a kit from Lee that has all the stuff you'll need, for the most part, scale, press, dies, funnel, etc, etc, etc, to get your feet wet. Doesn't cost that much.
Pretty good deal here. on the LEE BREECH LOCK CHALLENGER PRESS KIT. Nice press.
I'm sure Redding and RCBS have simular deals to get you started.
When your ready for the multi-stage, you'll have most the equipment and you'll be happy you have an extra single stage press laying around.
I would get a rock-tumbler instead of a vibribrating type of tumbler though. Cost about the same, much quieter, holds more.
If you don't shoot many rounds, wipe the brass off with Goo-Gone and be done with it... available at Ace. That's what I do with my match loads. It's petrolium based and won't hurt anything. Never seen a tumbler do a good job on the inside of brass anyway. I do hit the inside of the brass with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip though.
I would strongly recommend you reload using a single stage first before jumping into the multi-stage press.
You can get a kit from Lee that has all the stuff you'll need, for the most part, scale, press, dies, funnel, etc, etc, etc, to get your feet wet. Doesn't cost that much.
Pretty good deal here. on the LEE BREECH LOCK CHALLENGER PRESS KIT. Nice press.
I'm sure Redding and RCBS have simular deals to get you started.
When your ready for the multi-stage, you'll have most the equipment and you'll be happy you have an extra single stage press laying around.
I would get a rock-tumbler instead of a vibribrating type of tumbler though. Cost about the same, much quieter, holds more.
If you don't shoot many rounds, wipe the brass off with Goo-Gone and be done with it... available at Ace. That's what I do with my match loads. It's petrolium based and won't hurt anything. Never seen a tumbler do a good job on the inside of brass anyway. I do hit the inside of the brass with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip though.
Spartacus451
Member
Your right they would, and they would do it for me too. Doesn't change the fact that the tech was unhelpful and refused to listen to the user and instead blamed my setup and supposed lack of effort. I don't like having to outsmart the manufacturer to get something working.
They didn't offer to sell a replacement part and didn't indicate one was necessary. Just good for you, it's a known issue. Push harder.
No need to start with anything but the SDB.
After loading with my SDB for a number of months I did buy a single stage press for rifle ammo. A single stage process is SO slow that it would have driven me nuts.... I shoot IDPA and IPSC when I can so I go through a lot of ammo.
I did hear a trick from someone that loaded multiple calibers on a SDB. He purchased a complete second primer assembly. That way he and one adjusted for large primers and a second adjusted for small primers. The assemply requires the removal of 3 screws - no biggie.
If you do load multiple calibers consider getting tool heads - that way your dies stay in place and go on and off as a unit - making it real easy to switch back and forth.
After loading with my SDB for a number of months I did buy a single stage press for rifle ammo. A single stage process is SO slow that it would have driven me nuts.... I shoot IDPA and IPSC when I can so I go through a lot of ammo.
I did hear a trick from someone that loaded multiple calibers on a SDB. He purchased a complete second primer assembly. That way he and one adjusted for large primers and a second adjusted for small primers. The assemply requires the removal of 3 screws - no biggie.
If you do load multiple calibers consider getting tool heads - that way your dies stay in place and go on and off as a unit - making it real easy to switch back and forth.
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