Do I Need a .243 Win. Bolt Gun ?
- Thread starter FMJMIKE
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Birdhunter1
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Yes Dr. Tad I did purposely wait to see where the first shot would consistently go at 100 yards..
The target with the 87 vmax's were consecutive shots during load development, I have since duplicted that target a few times and had similar groupings. Measurements are outside-outside.
The target with the 87 vmax's were consecutive shots during load development, I have since duplicted that target a few times and had similar groupings. Measurements are outside-outside.
Art Eatman
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I bought a little Sako Forester carbine in .243 back around 1971-ish. I had to do a minor amount of tweaking on the forearm, but after that it has always given me 3/4-MOA groups and quite often better. Really nice trigger. I put a Leupold Vari-X II 2x7 on it.
I've tagged some 20+ bucks, plus a fair amount of culling. Coyotes, of course, and I loaded some 55-grain bullets which did terrible things to prairie dogs.
One reason I've always liked it is that it's seven pounds, total, with scope, sling and ammo.
I've tagged some 20+ bucks, plus a fair amount of culling. Coyotes, of course, and I loaded some 55-grain bullets which did terrible things to prairie dogs.
One reason I've always liked it is that it's seven pounds, total, with scope, sling and ammo.
FMJMIKE
Member
I am impressed by all the bullet weights you guys are mentioning. Are there different barrel rates of twist or is the .243 able to stabilize a wider range of bullet weights ???
I own a Tikka .223 Rem, an older, great Rem 700 in .22-250, and a stainless Rem 700 BDL in an HS Precision stock.
Frankly, I'd like a .243 Win, but it's kind of close to the .270 Win in a lot of ways and a bit like the .22-250 in what I'd use it for. Normally that wouldn't be the case, but with handloads, the .270 can shoot 3 1/2" groups at 450 yards and put them in less than a half-inch at 100 yards. If recoil isn't a problem, why not shoot the .270 for most game?
When I take the .223 or .22-250, I wonder whether they're enough gun for what I might want to shoot. When I take the .270, I don't worry, but it's a lot of gun to carry around the woods when it's not deer season.
Guess I'd have been better off with a .243 Win and not bought the others. But, now I have them. Darn!
Picher
Frankly, I'd like a .243 Win, but it's kind of close to the .270 Win in a lot of ways and a bit like the .22-250 in what I'd use it for. Normally that wouldn't be the case, but with handloads, the .270 can shoot 3 1/2" groups at 450 yards and put them in less than a half-inch at 100 yards. If recoil isn't a problem, why not shoot the .270 for most game?
When I take the .223 or .22-250, I wonder whether they're enough gun for what I might want to shoot. When I take the .270, I don't worry, but it's a lot of gun to carry around the woods when it's not deer season.
Guess I'd have been better off with a .243 Win and not bought the others. But, now I have them. Darn!
Picher
Redneck with a 40
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Personally, I'd buy a .308.
Gator 23
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Whew, nice groups birdhunter. Agree with .243 for deer to varmints, ammo is easy to find, and light recoil. You could always add a .270 etc... down the line if you decide to hunt larger game such as mule deer and elk.
Sunray
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"...would be my choice for a target round..." A target round is isn't, but there are match grade bullets available now. Thanks to the Bench Rest guys.
"...rates of twist..." Most factory barrels are rifled for heavy bullets(85 grains and up). Even heavy barreled varmint rifles. That doesn't mean they won't shoot lighter varmint bullets well. Mind you, there's no reason to use a varmint bullet just because you're shooting ground hogs. A Speer 105 grain SP practically turns a ground hog inside out. Varmint hunting with your deer load is great practice too.
Hide hunting coyotes is a different thing though. Commercial FMJ's are made for this. My .243 likes 90 grain FMJ's. Next to no muzzle blast too.
When you get that far, have a trigger job done. It makes a huge difference.
"...rates of twist..." Most factory barrels are rifled for heavy bullets(85 grains and up). Even heavy barreled varmint rifles. That doesn't mean they won't shoot lighter varmint bullets well. Mind you, there's no reason to use a varmint bullet just because you're shooting ground hogs. A Speer 105 grain SP practically turns a ground hog inside out. Varmint hunting with your deer load is great practice too.
Hide hunting coyotes is a different thing though. Commercial FMJ's are made for this. My .243 likes 90 grain FMJ's. Next to no muzzle blast too.
When you get that far, have a trigger job done. It makes a huge difference.
I went to Gander Mountain 2-3 years ago and noticed the Tikka T3 sitting on the rack. I fell in love with it immediately after handling it. I always try to shop locally if they can obtain the product I want at a comparable price. So I drove home and ordered a Tikka T3 from my local FFL. I got some funny looks from some of the boys but assured them they would be impressed when it came in and they could handle it. The Tikka is one of the few guns I have bought over the years that has a factory trigger that can be adjusted down to where I like them. Very crisp at about 2-2 1/2lbs. My local FFL has a gunsmith in the building also and he almost always winds up polishing the triggers of the firearms I purchase. At least I saved $30.00 due to the Tikka's excellent trigger. Alas, I have more firearms than time and haven't done any testing at our local range with the Tikka. Some of the "Boys" were still less than impressed. If it's not a domestic name they know and stocked in wood its a hard sell. The plastic bolt release got criticized pretty bad. I've posted a few pics.
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T.R.
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I've hunted with this Remington rifle for over 35 years. The stocks were replaced.
.243 is a very good long range cartridge for antelope and mule deer. I agree that a stout bullet is BEST for big mulies. 95 grain Nosler Partition and Hornady Interlock are great for handloaders. The most accurate factory ammo I've tried is by Black Hills.
.243 punches ghastly holes through medium sized animals. In fact, the wound channels are way out of proportion to such a small diameter bullet. That is why it's so lethal - incredible damage to chest organs!
TR
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Travis Bickle
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In heavily wooded country like VIrginia, you don't really need any more than a 150 yard gun. .243 is mostly useful for more open country out west where you'd be taking longer shots.
FMJMIKE
Member
Thanks!
Well.......You guys have convinced me to get a .243 Win bolt gun. Now if you could point me in the direction of a good rifle and approximate price. I am not sure if I want a synthetic stock or maybe a laminated wood stock. Any ideas ??? Oh..............I am in the cheap is better club..........
Well.......You guys have convinced me to get a .243 Win bolt gun. Now if you could point me in the direction of a good rifle and approximate price. I am not sure if I want a synthetic stock or maybe a laminated wood stock. Any ideas ??? Oh..............I am in the cheap is better club..........
Gator 23
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Mike, I just researched a bolt rifle purchase recently myself - value is what I usually go for (single income, military lifestyle, kids...etc). Right now, some of the cost to performance values are found with Savage, Howa 1500, and Remington SPS. The Howa 1500 has a hogue stock (nice), good factory trigger, and is made-well in Japan. The Savage models are affordable, people like their accu-trigger, new production models will include the accu-stock, and many tout their accuracy. The Remington 700s are tried and true (my personal favorite), but their lower-end SPS has a stock some have regarded as flimsy (no personal experience). I own two 700s - 7Mag and .270 in BDL and CDL (wood stocks). They are great shooters. If I didn't need a left hand bolt, my recent purchase would have been the HOWA vice the .270 700 CDL...if Howa had a left-handed .243...I'd be all over it. Also, check out the CZ rifles. Just bought my daughter a CZ .22 youth bolt and the quality to price ratio is impressive. These are Czech Republic made, and made well too.
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