dura coat degreasing question

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fishshocker

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I am about to do my first dura coat project on a ruger 10/22. I have read tons of stuff and feel prepared to have a go at it except one final prep question.

I know to degrease throughly, but my question is in regards to degreasing with clay in the holes/areas you don't want spray to go.

I have degreased (brake cleaner) while wearing latex gloves. I then placed clay in places i don't want spray to go and used my gloved finger to wipe off clay flush with outside of hole. This leaves some residue of the modeling clay on the metal. Will another spray of brake cleaner remove that? It seems that there is no way to "scrub" the part while clay is in a hole. Or should I wipe down with acetone and a rag being careful to not wipe across plugged holes.

Will brake cleaner cause anything to leach out of the modeling clay that will cause adhesion problems with the duracoat around that hole?

Thanks.
 
I don't know, but it sounds like a bad combination.

How about making hole plugs out of wood dowel rod ground to a taper fit and cut off flush?

That takes grease & oil from the modeling clay out of the equation.

rc
 
I don't use Duracoat, but where did you come up with the clay idea? I refinish my firearms and I've never heard of anyone using clay. Duracoat is thicker than other better finishes out in the market. I owned 10/22s and I'm trying to picture where you would plug these holes.

The finishes that I use are all thermal cured products, so clay would be a no go.

Most people who use Duracoat is because it's easy...I think you are over thinking this project.
 
Added note brake cleaner will not work very well with DuraCoat, soak your parts in acatone and then spray with TruStrip.
 
I was afraid that there might be to much buildup in screw holes (scope mount) and the recoil buffer hole. I thought I had heard somewhere people would put modeling clay in those areas to prevent to much build up.
 
The point is to keep the stuff off the threads.

What I do is cut a foam ear plug up, roll a part of it, and let it expand in the hole. Same works for the barrel.
 
I've Duracoated about six rifles in the last four months. On all of them, I first sand blasted them or otherwise roughed up the surfaces. I then degreased with brake cleaner. I then plug of all of the areas that I don't want duracoated with plumber's putty. Plumber's Putty doesn't get hard when you bake it and it stays put. I then degrease again. Just before I spray, I wipe the firearm down with denatured alcohol.

I then heat the whole action, or whatever, up a bit with a heatgun and spray. I let it sit for about an hour, then I cook it in an oven for an hour. Done.
 
Don't sweat it

I've been using dura coat and a few other finishes for years and never had any problems with the threads after using dura coat. It is thicker then gunkote but not thick enough to cause any problems with threads. I don't spray it on receiver pins, just the ends of the pins, to give a uniform finish. If you coat your hammer or receiver pins the dura coat may scrape off when you place them back in and cause a little binding, hence just spray the ends.
I've never used clay except for plugging holes and voids before bedding a rifle.
I've been using mineral spirits after sand blasting for final prep before spraying. Post some pics when your done.
 
I would not worry about it... the 10/22 bolt stop and reciver cross pin holes will probably benifit form a little bit of paint in them to tighten them up. I would not worry about the threads, just don't dump a bunch of paint into the hole and it should not be a big deal. as other have said you can plug the holes with dispoable ear plugs. if you want to get really fancy you could use set screws to plug the threaded holes or if you need to you could chase the threads with a tap to clean them out (6-48 for the scope mount and 12-24 for the barrel retainer and takedown screws).
 
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