Expanding my accumulation of S&Ws. Any models to avoid?

[Driftwood Johnson]

Looked at a new K22 that was at the LGS and it just did not have
that feel and fit of the older models.

Just being a Schoolmarm here.

S&W stopped cataloging the K-22 in 1957 when the model name was changed over to Model 17. The stainless version, the Model 617 was first produced in 1989.

So I kind of doubt you saw a new K-22 at the LGS. More likely it was a Model 17 if blued, or a model 617 if stainless.

 

[ontarget]

Well I stopped by the LGS today and found a stainless Chiefs Special. Circa 1974. It looks unfired. I decided it would fit in with my model 10 so it came home with me. Came with the original box and papers. I'm pretty excited. $450. OTD. How did I do?

 

[Old Dog]

Out the door, I'd pay that price for a minty Model 60 in a heartbeat -- that would be akin to stealing the piece up here in my region. People are asking 5 bills up here for 60s that have been used hard.

You did great.

 

[P5 Guy]

S&W 60 with all the packaging, a gun show find OTD $400.00. I was very happy to buy this little one.

 

[gotboostvr]

Definitely a good grab for your collection. Hard to beat a nice M60.

Some of the newer (but out of production) Night Guard series are becoming collectable in their own right.

 

[Tallball]

I have a few favorites.

If you like shooting 22lr, a 6" K22 is a thing of beauty.

My 2" Model 10 has a great trigger and shoots extremely well for a snub.

My Model 625 is very useful in that it is chambered for 45acp, which I shoot a lot anyway and is cheaper and easier to come by than 45colt.

I recently got a 6" Model 28. The trigger is ridiculously good. I am very grateful to my friend for recommending them to me. The pic is below. It is a great shooter and fits my XXL hands very well.

Smith And Wesson Model 28

• Tallball
• Mar 15, 2019

 

[Monac]

I don't know of any Smith & Wesson revolvers that have a bad reputation, really. The problem children all seem to be automatics.

I have heard that the Model 19's (K-frame 357's) used to have a problem with forcing cones cracking, but since they can now make J-frame 357's, that problem is probably fixed.

There have been people who say Model 12's (aluminum K-frame 38 Special) have problems with frames cracking, but that seems to be a subject of some dispute. Oddly, though, I don't remember hearing that about the Airweight J-frame 38's.

And the rare, oddball, K-frame in .22 Jet (Model 53? You're on a computer, you look it up) apparently had problems with cylinders locking up or cases being hard to eject. That assumes you could find some .22 Jet to shoot in it, though.

Personally, I would not get a 44 Magnum, but that is only because the one time I fired an N-frame 44 Magnum, I could feel it in my wrist for 2 or 3 days afterward. The guns are fine, but my joints aren't up to the strain. And if you're going to shoot 44 Special loads, why not get a 44 Special?

 

[ontarget]

Yup P5 Guy that's the one. Mine also came with an extra set of finger groove grips.

 

[P5 Guy]

S&W 696 is 44SPL and a S&W 60-4 in 38SPL before S&W got every revolver must be MAGNUM disease.

 

[2ndamd]

Congratulations on your model 10. The k-frame 38 specials are my favorite. I like the model 10 in stainless as well and have 3 model 64s. I shoot these regularly and they keep going and going....
Beware getting into a new frame size. I bought a j frame years ago and within 2 weeks I had 2 more j frames. It is like a disease.
Maybe just stick with k frames for now. The above pictures posted are representative of the Smith quality from years gone by. Any firearm enthusiast can appreciate the older k frames and the early guns before there were model numbers. So beautiful!

 

[Hanshi]

As long as the S&W is in good shooting shape, I see no reason to avoid any of them you may have your eye on. I'll post a few photos taken long ago when they all were in my stable.
My 686 no dash.

.22LR, .38 spl and .357 mag K frames.

M24-3 .44 spl.

M 28-2. .357.

M25 .45 acp.

M27.

And of course the M29-2.

 

[gotboostvr]

If we're just using this as an excuse to show off...

I'm a big fan of the "service sized" K and L frames.

M19's

686-0

681-2

625, 627 Pro and a 629 to show the N frames some love.

M29-2

I could honestly live perfectly happy without a 357 Mag, I get more practical "use" from 44's and 45's.

But the 357's, they're just great shooting guns that are cheaper to feed.

 

[cfullgraf]

In my opinion, you cannot go wrong collecting S&W revolvers. If the guns have been cared for, they are good to collect.

For the beginner, I'd start with S&W revolvers in the post Model number era (1957 and beyond). The guns will be in better shape and easier to determine if there are problems.

Once you get some knowledge and experience under your belt, you can expand your search to pre-model number guns (before 1957 or so).

You can choose a group of guns to collect. I have been collecting K-frame, adjustable sight, Model numbered K-frame guns, primarily Model 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19 revolvers. It has been fun except for the scarcity and cost of Model 16 versions (32 S&WL chamberings).

You can select various N-frames and their different cartridges, K-frames and their different cartridges, L frames and their different cartridges and J frames and their different cartridges.

Unfortunately, some of the most interesting chamberings are also rare so they get a bit pricey.

"The Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson" by Jim Supica and Richard Nahas is a good source to learn about the basics of S&W firearms. I believe they are up to Volume 4.

If you are into S&W guns, it is a good resource to have on hand.

 

[Rodentman]

I am FAR from knowledgeable on vintage revolvers but I very much enjoy my 28-2, 29-2, and 14-3 all of mid 70's date. I have provenance letters from Roy J on all 3. I can't afford to get really deep into collecting as I am now retired and have less income. I am happy that I have those 3. And a bunch of modern issues as well.

 

[ontarget]

I am FAR from knowledgeable on vintage revolvers but I very much enjoy my 28-2, 29-2, and 14-3 all of mid 70's date. I have provenance letters from Roy J on all 3. I can't afford to get really deep into collecting as I am now retired and have less income. I am happy that I have those 3. And a bunch of modern issues as well.

Yeah I wish I could afford one of each. But for now I'm just wanting to add some revolvers that my grandkids will be able to enjoy someday.

 

[Rodentman]

Sadly my kids aren't interested in firearms. My grandson is only 5 so it's early yet for him, but we'll see. I also have a 3 year old granddaughter who lives far away unfortunately. I hope I live long enough....

 

[BobWright]

What to avoid?

Anything that looks like a Smith & Wesson but says "Made in Spain" and similar revolvers. If it says "Smith & Wesson" and "Springfield, Mass." buy it.

Providing, of course, that all the parts are there. And, if not, if the price is right, buy that!

I once bought a pair of S&W grips, no gun, just grips. And you know, I soon had a gun to fit them!

Bob Wright

 

[entropy]

There is one model of S&W revolver I heartily recommend avoiding: The Bodyguard 38. I has an Achilles heel-The crane retention is merely a piece of plastic sticking up from the trigger guard, and it wears over time and use, and not a lot of either. The trigger guard is not available as an aftermarket part yet, so the only fix is sending it back to Springfield.

 

[The Evangelist Cowboy]

Do not buy ANY Smith and Wesson revolver! I don't need more competition buying the rest.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

You also need to get a Victory Model. Or two.

 

[murf]

glad you bought one of the older guns. enjoy.

murf

 

[CoalTrain49]

Take notice of any and all pre lock Smiths. Heck, even no locks as well.

If it has a lock, S&W didn't give a crap about it as far as I am concerned and neither should you.

Never buy a new product that is in any way inferior to an old product. Guns are durable goods and so the older models are still just fine and you should not support a company who does not care about its own product.

I agree with that. The only people that buy S&W's with a lock (I have one and learned a few things ) are those who don't know about those guns they built in the last century. My cut-off is around 1990. 50's, 60's and 70's seem to be quite good.

 

[whatnickname]

Careful with the model 624. There was a recall on these in the mid 80s due to metallurgical problems with some cylinders. Please read my recent post on the 44 Special for full details.

 

[StrawHat]

Or, pick a cartridge and look for the revolvers that are so chambered.

I like the 45 ACP, here are some of mine.

Kevin

 

[Elkins45]

I agree with that. The only people that buy S&W's with a lock (I have one and learned a few things ) are those who don't know about those guns they built in the last century. My cut-off is around 1990. 50's, 60's and 70's seem to be quite good.

I’m having a hard time finding a model 69 made before 1990. Or a model 29 with the endurance package. Got a lead on any of those?

You collect 70’s guns? I thought everyone knew that S&W only made junk after Bangor Punta bought them. That’s what everyone told me back then.