Hardtarget
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After I went through the headache of trying to load 100 cases without removing the crimp...I sprung for the RCBS bench mounted swager tool. Since then...no problem.
Mark
Mark
First AR which ammo to buy for reloading
- Thread starter Bozrdang
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16in50calNavalRifle
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Funny, I'm in the process of doing exactly what the OP is doing - getting some factory 223 with the intention of reloading the brass. Reading the thread, adjusting for my situation/preferences, I still am not seeing the specific answers I was seeking, so here's an attempt to reduce things.
First, crimped primer pockets do not concern me. Have started reloading 30-06 the M-1 and it's a negligible issue (as several have pointed out), so it won't affect my choice of ammo. Second, my reloading will be just for plinking/practice use. Nothing sophisticated or demanding in terms of uniformity or other qualities in the brass.
So, with those two assumptions in place, my questions remain:
* Is there any factory brass that is to be avoided? In another thread (I have been searching this forum for relevant info), someone mentioned AMERC and Wolf. AMERC's a no-brainer - only headstamp that gets "recycle on sight" status. But how about Wolf? Some of the better deals on bulk 223 are for Wolf brass-cased. Anyone have specific, hard info that Wolf is undesirable for 223 reloading? I'm a bit skeptical about that assessment, absent specifics.
* The opposite side of that question: is there any headstamp that is (for whatever reasons) clearly the best choice for 223?
* About how much brass life/# of reloads can one expect for 223? And with that in mind, are there any particular headstamps that are likely to give more, or fewer, safe reloads?
Thanks as ever for any help.
First, crimped primer pockets do not concern me. Have started reloading 30-06 the M-1 and it's a negligible issue (as several have pointed out), so it won't affect my choice of ammo. Second, my reloading will be just for plinking/practice use. Nothing sophisticated or demanding in terms of uniformity or other qualities in the brass.
So, with those two assumptions in place, my questions remain:
* Is there any factory brass that is to be avoided? In another thread (I have been searching this forum for relevant info), someone mentioned AMERC and Wolf. AMERC's a no-brainer - only headstamp that gets "recycle on sight" status. But how about Wolf? Some of the better deals on bulk 223 are for Wolf brass-cased. Anyone have specific, hard info that Wolf is undesirable for 223 reloading? I'm a bit skeptical about that assessment, absent specifics.
* The opposite side of that question: is there any headstamp that is (for whatever reasons) clearly the best choice for 223?
* About how much brass life/# of reloads can one expect for 223? And with that in mind, are there any particular headstamps that are likely to give more, or fewer, safe reloads?
Thanks as ever for any help.
I can only say that I would buy whatever was cheapest, brass cased and boxer primed and run with it, That would include factory remanufactured stuff,staying away from AmerC.
Too many variables regarding case life for me to worry over, I would discard anything that has a split but haven't found any yet.
I do NOT load to the max, just mid range plinking ammo is fine for my needs.
Too many variables regarding case life for me to worry over, I would discard anything that has a split but haven't found any yet.
I do NOT load to the max, just mid range plinking ammo is fine for my needs.
Here is the brass I will reload, listed in order of preference from highest to lowest. I am now pretty much restricting myself to only Lake City and Federal. The bottom two are listed since I use them in situations where I don't want to have to think about where my brass goes when I shoot. Be aware that American Eagle ammo is made by Federal (and reloads beautifully for me), and I highly recommend picking up some up, especially when it goes on sale.
Lake City (LC)
Federal (FC)
Winchester (WIN)
Remington (R-P)
I have had terrible results using PMC (PMC) brass and the only reason I might keep from trash canning it is for its value as recycled brass.
Lake City (LC)
Federal (FC)
Winchester (WIN)
Remington (R-P)
I have had terrible results using PMC (PMC) brass and the only reason I might keep from trash canning it is for its value as recycled brass.
The shoulder of the case crumples (or starts to) during the seating/crimping stage. That then can (and almost always does) affect my headspace. It is never a total crumple where the shoulder inverts into the case, but it starts to.
Oh, and I wanted to add that the crumpling was a huge disappointment for me since I had purchased 500 rds of PMC in hopes they could be re-loaded. It is the ONLY manufacturer I have had problems with.
Lou
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mstreddy
Member
16in50 - you ask some good questions.
Here is my take:
* Is there any factory brass that is to be avoided? ... But how about Wolf brass-cased? Wolf brass cased is good consistent ammo and brass. IIRC it's either Fiocchi or Privi Partizan.
* The opposite side of that question: is there any headstamp that is (for whatever reasons) clearly the best choice for 223? For the plinking you are mentioning it will all be fine. If you were trying to eek out the absolute precision for bench rest or 600-1000 yards -- maybe Lapua or Norma or other high end stuff.
* About how much brass life/# of reloads can one expect for 223? And with that in mind, are there any particular headstamps that are likely to give more, or fewer, safe reloads? The brass life will vary, brands, hotter loads, etc... Just inspect the brass all the time. I've seen some Federal that split necks after the first or second firing.
Bottom line, for 223, nearly all brands of boxer primed brass will be fine. 223 is another of those calibers that I can pick up plenty of at the ranges where I shoot.
Here is my take:
* Is there any factory brass that is to be avoided? ... But how about Wolf brass-cased? Wolf brass cased is good consistent ammo and brass. IIRC it's either Fiocchi or Privi Partizan.
* The opposite side of that question: is there any headstamp that is (for whatever reasons) clearly the best choice for 223? For the plinking you are mentioning it will all be fine. If you were trying to eek out the absolute precision for bench rest or 600-1000 yards -- maybe Lapua or Norma or other high end stuff.
* About how much brass life/# of reloads can one expect for 223? And with that in mind, are there any particular headstamps that are likely to give more, or fewer, safe reloads? The brass life will vary, brands, hotter loads, etc... Just inspect the brass all the time. I've seen some Federal that split necks after the first or second firing.
Bottom line, for 223, nearly all brands of boxer primed brass will be fine. 223 is another of those calibers that I can pick up plenty of at the ranges where I shoot.
ColoradoShooter77
Member
I've reloaded a bunch of PMC brass and have never had a problem with any of it.
16in50calNavalRifle
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Thanks to all for the replies.
I'm surprised to hear about trouble with PMC brass. Obviously I haven't worked with their 223 yet, but 9/38/45 are fine and I've been reloading them for years.
By coincidence, I actually did what the OP and I are planning to do with 223 when I started 38 - bought a case, kept all the brass, and use it as my exclusive 38 brass. Just for uniformity, though that's kind of academic, as again I am reloading mid-range loads for practice and fun. The brand? PMC.
And - it seems that nobody reading this thread has specifically had some kind of trouble with Wolf 223 brass. I asked about that one in particular because in another thread someone had listed that along with Amerc as the only ones to be avoided.
Sounds like I'll just stay alert for any sale on major-brand 223. Though, given the "situation", sadly such sales may not occur within my time-table.
Range where I RO has military/agencies leaving mountains of 223 brass, most of which the range sells. But there are often small piles left uncollected. Could probably meet my very modest (expected) 223 needs just continuing to collect that, but I would like to start off the AR I will build with factory rounds.
I'm surprised to hear about trouble with PMC brass. Obviously I haven't worked with their 223 yet, but 9/38/45 are fine and I've been reloading them for years.
By coincidence, I actually did what the OP and I are planning to do with 223 when I started 38 - bought a case, kept all the brass, and use it as my exclusive 38 brass. Just for uniformity, though that's kind of academic, as again I am reloading mid-range loads for practice and fun. The brand? PMC.
And - it seems that nobody reading this thread has specifically had some kind of trouble with Wolf 223 brass. I asked about that one in particular because in another thread someone had listed that along with Amerc as the only ones to be avoided.
Sounds like I'll just stay alert for any sale on major-brand 223. Though, given the "situation", sadly such sales may not occur within my time-table.
Range where I RO has military/agencies leaving mountains of 223 brass, most of which the range sells. But there are often small piles left uncollected. Could probably meet my very modest (expected) 223 needs just continuing to collect that, but I would like to start off the AR I will build with factory rounds.
mstreddy
Member
PMC is good brass. The issue above with crumpling is probably a length/crimping issue.
I mainly shoot at an indoor range and except for my buddies and I, most don't reload. They have one side designated as rifle. I can usually find a bunch of 223 there. And, I can pretty much bet it's once fired.
I'm also in the AF Reserves and I can sometimes come across some mil brass. LC, FC, WCC, etc...
I mainly shoot at an indoor range and except for my buddies and I, most don't reload. They have one side designated as rifle. I can usually find a bunch of 223 there. And, I can pretty much bet it's once fired.
I'm also in the AF Reserves and I can sometimes come across some mil brass. LC, FC, WCC, etc...
I've had good luck with Federal's AR 5.56 XM193, which shoots okay and yields LC cases. Removing the primer crimp is a quick operation. I chuck the decapped case in a drill, spin it and touch it with a deburring tool to remove the crimp and cut a small bevel. It takes me about 3 seconds per case, and is a one-shot deal.
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