First CZ ever, think I have a problem. Drops to half cock in DA

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Almost sounds like it has been assembled wrong for the DA to always fail. Is that a possibility?
I suppose. The weird thing is it worked for a while and then didn’t. I have been storing it with the slide locked back so maybe the mainspring took a set or something.
But since there was something hinky with the DA release before I’m going to just guess that something is out of spec or broken. Thinking of ordering a Cajun pro kit and just replacing whatever I can. I checked out a similar 75B Omega at a match today and it had a functioning half cock, but the SA and DA stroke felt similar to mine. There’s no real wall in SA; it just rolls through and the hammer drops.
 
You have not been having good luck with this pistol. That sucks - all of my CZs have been outstanding guns. Perhaps if you asked Dave at CGW to look at the entire pistol, and he probably still won't charge you a big bag of money.
Yep. Thinking that’s probably the best way to go here. I’d still prefer not to ship if possible, if I could have some confidence that simply replacing parts would solve the problem. Maybe I’ll call him first and see what he thinks.
 
Is there anything I can check by disassembly? Would a broken firing pin stop pin make this pistol behave this way?

Also please confirm something for me: the shooter at the match kept press checking his pistol before holstering and I asked him if his safety was on when holstering and he confirmed it was, and said on the CZ you can retract the slide with the safety on.

mine doesn’t work like that... is he smoking crack or is my pistol not working right?

thanks
 
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Is there anything I can check by disassembly? Would a broken firing pin stop pin make this pistol behave this way?

Also please confirm something for me: the shooter at the match kept press checking his pistol before holstering and I asked him if his safety was on when holstering and he confirmed it was, and said on the CZ you can retract the slide with the safety on.

mine doesn’t work like that... is he smoking crack or is my pistol not working right?

thanks
You should NOT be able to retract the slide with the safety on.
 
1kPerDay said:
I have been storing it with the slide locked back so maybe the mainspring took a set or something.

Leaving coil springs compressed (if, when compressed, they're near their elastic limit) will lead to spring degradation. But whether that degradation affects performance will depend on the gun's design and how close to (or beyond) the spring's elastic limit (aka as DEIGN LIMIT) the spring is worked. Coil springs are especially vulnerable because of how the metal is affected when the springs are working -- the work done tends to be spread more-widely through the spring material than in a leaf spring. Leaf springs tend to work until they break; coil springs tend to weaken until they can no longer do the work... then you get problems that sometimes are hard to diagnose. This is especially true with a recoil spring and could be true with a coil hammer spring.

On another forum, we heard from a guy in the National Guard who talked about how the NCOIC responsible for their weapons left all of the unit's M9s stored with the slides locked fully to the rear, and when they went to the range in the spring, a significant number of their M9s just wouldn't function properly. (I don't remember whether it was only the recoil spring affected, or whether the hammer/main spring was affected,too.

On that forum and here on THE HIGH ROAD, in extended discussions over a number of years, participants included a number of engineers (one of whom was Metallurgist, an engineer who specializes in metal applications) the discussions have confirmed that leaving springs compressed for long periods can lead to spring weakening. Note: just because a spring has weakened doesn't mean it can no longer do the work for which it was designed.

Here's a link from THE FIRING LINE discussing this spring behavior in detail, with some examples: https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=557865&highlight=springs . JohnKSa is an engineer, but not a Metallurgist. He is a knowledgeable handgunner and shooting enthusiast and familiar with spring-powered air guns, as well. He can and has cited other sources in his many contributions to that site, where he is now a moderator.​

Locking the slide to the rear for long periods can degrade the recoil spring, and it MIGHT weaken the hammer spring a bit, too. That's MIGHT, not WILL.

If I were you,I'd try a slightly heavier hammer spring before shipping the gun off to CGW. (As you probably already know, shipping can be very costly, especially if you can't get an FFL to use Priority Mail for you) to CGW. This might be very appropriate if the changes previously made to your gun included a lighter (or shortened) hammer spring.

If a heavier hammer spring doesn't improve things, then ship away!
 
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Just an fyi.
I've fed ex'd my complete cz sp01 2 day ship with $1500 insurance on it for $30

I've also shipped my shadow 2 slide and trijicon SRO to primary machine with $1500 insurance also two day for $24.
 
How. I thought the cheapest legal “red box” option was like $74 now.

LMK as I’m considering sending the whole pistol in.

Although I really would prefer fixing it myself. I’m wondering if the omega Cajun kit for about $220 would replace all potentially problematic parts. It comes with a new firing pin, hammer, disconnector (I think) and firing pin safety lever (I think) and a bunch of springs. And a roller. Not a sear or trigger though.
 
I'd try the hammer (main) spring first -- and THEN, if that didn't fix the problem, consider sending it to CGW -- but only because of the difference in dollars spent.

That said, I don't think I've EVER heard a complaint about CGW, its customer service, or the firm's willingness to help. And their prices are certainly in line with (or actually a bit lower than) other top-level gunsmith firms. Whenever I've talked with David or bought products from CGW, I've always been impressed.
 
Yeah I’m a fan for sure. He helped me for free and got my pistol working for a while at least. It doesn’t have a half cock notch anymore which worries me a little but I suppose that was part of trying to fix the problem by mail.
 
In my experience, any time you buy a used semi-auto pistol, you're likely buying someone's past problem(s). That being said, I would either ship it to CZ, or Cajun Gun Works and let them have at it. I have Cajun kits in two CZs and they're simply amazing. Well worth the $$. Then you'll have a really nice CZ and you'll be confident that it will work as advertised.
 
More mysteries: I field stripped it and checked for broken springs or other nonfunctional stuff. Everything in the frame looks fine. I tried a sized and primed 9mm case DA, no pop even after three restrikes. Primer was pristine. Cocked to SA, primer popped and impact looked healthy.

Tried another sized and primed case DA. POP!

Tried another. No pop. Five DA restrikes. No pop. Primer had the barest hint of a tiny mark.

image.jpg
 
Dry fire should not hurt a CZ, ever!


Sorry for thread drift, but this simply is not true. The roll pin retaining the firing pin is somewhat weak and can be damaged with dry firing (mine was). A solid pin fixes this problem.
 
The CZ 75B Omega has changed some over the years and yours being purchased used may muddy the waters of analysis some.

The new models are marketed as "convertable" and they do indeed come with the de-cocker installed and function just as described by Winkman in post #3.

To call it a "half cock" is somewhat of a misnomer, as it is more like a "7/8 cock". When you drop the hammer with the de-cocker, you do not drop the hammer to it's lowest position, right up against the FPS. Rather, the hammer is retained about 1/16" off via. the 7/8 cock notch.

These come set up with the de-cocker and then have a bag with the parts needed to swap out to the manual safety mode of operation.

wrt. IDPA or USPSA rules, I can't advise. but the 75 is probably one of the most popular comp guns and there have to be a lot of guys out there running BDs who have the exact same function.

The older Omegas look just like the old 75s with the duck bill. The newer 75 B Omegas have a beaver tail that looks just like the 75B SAOs.

Which do you have?
 
Old. Non convertible. Full Curved black trigger. And there is no half cock or 7/8 cock or anything. It drops to contact with the firing pin.
It used to but after Cajun mail in mods it doesn’t.

Hopefully the new hammer in the kit will fix it.
 
Well it seems that the Cajun kit solved my issues for a little while. I got the $230 omega kit and installed it tonight. A bit fiddly but no real issues. I had to make a couple slave pins. Went to shoot it and the trigger feels 100% better and double action and in single action. There is a nice crisp definable wall in SA now, breaking at 4 lbs with zero overtravel and a short reset. DA went from a gritty 12 lbs to a very smooth 9 1/2. Nice.

shot a couple of mags and a bunch DA with no issues. Then I started getting failures to reset. The trigger hesitates when I let it out slowly and stops before the reset point. Sometimes. If I push the trigger forward it clicks and resets.

It was feeling like this before I put in the omega kit, but it never actually failed to reset, it just felt like it would.

I’ll call Cajun but in the meantime does anyone know where I should be looking? What parts are involved in the reset? Where could the issue lie? I’d like to solve it myself if at all possible. I was just getting to actually like shooting this pistol.
 
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