First gun ordered. Thanks for suggestions.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Read the owners manual. Learn how to disassemble and reassemble it. Clean it, lube it where the manual shows and maybe even dry fire it some. Then go to the range. Be safe and have fun.
 
Clean and oil the gun before your first outing.

Keep the gun in your range bag, unloaded until you get to the firing line. Transport in the trunk. Don't take the handgun out of your range bag until you are at the firing line and ready to load. At all times keep the muzzle pointed downrange, finger off the trigger until ready to shoot.

You will also need eye and ear protection.
 
Thanks.
I have eye and ear protection plus the range also gives them out.
I don't have a range bag so that's something I'll look into.
I have watched few videos on field stripping that specific gun so have good idea on what's involved.

I'll buy a cleaning kit and some ammo when I pickup the gun.
Other things to follow:
  1. Targets.
  2. Range bag.
  3. Snap caps (dummy rounds).
  4. Holster - if I decide to carry it (iwb) and/or if class requires it (owb).
  5. Extra magazine.
What else should I keep in the list?
 
Is there a checklist of things to do when I bring the gun home?
Do I have to clean before I head out? I'll buy cleaning kit when I pick the gun at FFL store.
Should I keep it in the case in the trunk to and from the range? Loaded/unloaded?

I haven't bought any ammo yet. My plan is to buy few boxes locally first few times.

Do I have to keep the magazines loaded for few days for spring to settle in?
Slide locked for few days for recoil spring to settle in?

What else do I need to do before taking it to the range?
Thanks


It's an M&P, the model is one of the ones you guys suggested.
Tracking is in. Should be here Wednesday and the kind of suspense ends. :D

You need to do none of that silly stuff with respect to the springs.

Inspect, clean, and lubricate your gun when you get it.

Then go shoot it.

It's that simple.

As for ammunition...buy a box of several different brands/kinds of ammunition to try out. See if there's anything it likes to shoot better than others. This is useful for figuring out what you want to buy later. For instance, if your gun isn't finicky and shoots pretty much anything, then it doesn't matter what you get. However, if it likes certain brands/types over others, then that is what you want to get.

As for personal protection ammunition: try a few different brands/types of these as well. Choose the ones that shoot best and most reliably.
 
Just a thought: Get a RO to watch you load and shoot it the first time. (I missed any reference to your experience or training... if you have an experienced background--ignore) A RO will see any obvious or dangerous problems and will keep you safe.

Enjoy your new pistol!
 
If you are shooting at paper targets then something to consider having is a dedicated staple gun and a box of staples. Get one specific for shooting. Why? Because it isn't a question of if but rather when you will forget to take your staple gun and on those trips you will have to bum one off of another shooter. Also, put a roll of duct tape in with your stuff. Note: I have heard that some indoor commercial ranges require that you buy targets from them and they have springy thingies that hold the target up so no staple gun or duct tape needed.

For the future consider getting a set of gunsmith quality tools for taking your gunz apart. Do not use regular screwdrivers on gunz screws. You prolly will not have to worry too much about this with a polymer frame gun just something to keep in mind.

Some gun cleaning solvents are hard on the finish of some firearms. Read and check before using. Use plastic or bronze cleaning tips on your cleaning rod. A bronze cleaning rod are best. Some people like the disposable swabs like "swab-its" or "Ramrodz".
 
Years ago I got to talk to several of the Olympic shooters on the USA Olympic Shooting Team. These people believe in certain things. One thing is that you need to "break in" any firearm that you plan to use. That means take it to a range and run 300 to 500 rounds through it. The idea is that by shooting 300 to 500 rounds through a new firearm is that you give the parts in the gun a chance to mesh and wear down to their proper moving tolerances. Once the gun has properly meshed after the break-in test fire you'll probably have no problems with your firearm for a long time if at all.

They also urge people to use dry fire a lot. They tell you that for every one round that they actually fire they will dry fire a couple of thousand times before and sometimes after shooting. They refer to dry fire as helping to develop "muscle memory."

So, I would carefully check the pistol before going to the range. Strip it down, look for burrs and potential problem spots. I would clean it a bit and then oil it and put it back together. I would use good ball ammo for my initial test fire of the pistol. I wouldn't really worry about accuracy until I had put at least 100 rounds through the pistol. There are some pistols that get shipped in bags of oil and they come with notes attached that tell you that the pistol will become more accurate after it has been shot for a while. Check the feed ramp if the pistol is a semi-automatic. On most semis you can get burrs that will stall feeding of cartridges into the chamber area. Many semis need to have their ramps polished or stoned to help smoothly and quickly feed the next round into the chamber. For proper polishing, you should probably use a qualified gunsmith. I always test my firearms first before seeking aid of a gunsmith. Some of my firearms, most of them in fact, had no need for the help of a gunsmith.
 
I've NEVER had an issue requiring ANY polishing on ANY of the guns I've ever owned.

Nor have I ever heard of this being a common problem.

Not to say the need never arises.

However, I HAVE heard plenty about people "polishing" stuff like feed ramps and ending up screwing up their guns.

In general, this is RARELY ever needed and if you have problems with your new gun, you really ought to be holding the manufacturer responsible for any and all defects.
 
Guess I'm the only one who takes their gun out the box, and straight to the range? Dozens of pistols and rifles over the years and not one issue yet except with a Ruger that needed to go back home. Guess I'm lucky.
 
Guess I'm the only one who takes their gun out the box, and straight to the range? Dozens of pistols and rifles over the years and not one issue yet except with a Ruger that needed to go back home. Guess I'm lucky.

I wouldn't say that. I've done it plenty of times and never had a problem.

BUT...it IS a firearm, so it really behooves us to inspect it first before we go packing it full of metallic cartridges filled with gunpowder and lighting them off.

And while you're inspecting it, go ahead and clean it of all the factory oils/grease and apply lube while you're at it.

Consider it part of the "familiarization" with your new firearm.
 
I wouldn't say that. I've done it plenty of times and never had a problem.

BUT...it IS a firearm, so it really behooves us to inspect it first before we go packing it full of metallic cartridges filled with gunpowder and lighting them off.

And while you're inspecting it, go ahead and clean it of all the factory oils/grease and apply lube while you're at it.

Consider it part of the "familiarization" with your new firearm.
That could never hurt, and I reckon could solve some problems with some finicky guns.

I usually look it over during the initial transfer, but can't say that I've ever cleaned or lube a new gun. On several occasions, I went straight from the the LGS counter to the range within minutes.

With that said, before I put it on my hip and walk out the door, I make sure it's clean and lube though.

Like you meantioned, some people need to polish the feed ramp. I've heard many others say that they polish the feed ramp, break the gun completely down (beyond field stripping), and then clean and lube everything. I tend to only do that with guns I buy used.
 
Last edited:
Quick question,
Do I have to inspect the gun before transfer even if it's brand new in the box?
Does FFL shop allow it?
Yes they allow it... If they don't, you picked the wrong FFL to send your gun to. I've haven't heard an FFL not allowing someone to check their own gun before transfer.
 
I ordered M&P 2.0 4" Compact with Safety :)
I almost ordered a Shield but a lot of you guys suggest bigger gun as first gun so went with the compact.
Thanks for all your comments.

Went to FFL and was a smooth transaction except the background check took little longer as state vs FBI (or whatever they were checking) data had differences in the way they stored my middle name.
They had to enter my name differently. Weird.
Anyways, it didn't take long, 5 minutes, once the entry was corrected.

I was disappointed to see a cardboard box.
Youtube videos showed this gun came with a nice plastic case with foam insert.
The one I got is a plain cardboard box with contents scattered inside.
You can't even tell if it's new or used. Nothing sealed.
Shame on you S&W that you can't put a $5 case with a $400 gun!

I checked the firing pin and it was not protruding.
All the contents are there so hopefully no surprises.

Here are some pictures:
47580458572_1ca8be593c_b.jpg

47580458282_765b253ec8_b.jpg

47580458182_6ac397223e_b.jpg

46717695115_540b84eeb8_b.jpg

33755947628_7f678e48c1_b.jpg

47580458392_e7c907f4a1_b.jpg

BTW, it doesn't have much oil at all. Flash makes it look oily but it's very dry.
 
I ordered M&P 2.0 4" Compact with Safety :)
I almost ordered a Shield but a lot of you guys suggest bigger gun as first gun so went with the compact.
Thanks for all your comments.

Went to FFL and was a smooth transaction except the background check took little longer as state vs FBI (or whatever they were checking) data had differences in the way they stored my middle name.
They had to enter my name differently. Weird.
Anyways, it didn't take long, 5 minutes, once the entry was corrected.

I was disappointed to see a cardboard box.
Youtube videos showed this gun came with a nice plastic case with foam insert.
The one I got is a plain cardboard box with contents scattered inside.
You can't even tell if it's new or used. Nothing sealed.
Shame on you S&W that you can't put a $5 case with a $400 gun!

I checked the firing pin and it was not protruding.
All the contents are there so hopefully no surprises.

Here are some pictures:
View attachment 837034

View attachment 837035

View attachment 837036

View attachment 837037

View attachment 837038

View attachment 837039

BTW, it doesn't have much oil at all. Flash makes it look oily but it's very dry.
None of my M&P Shields or 2.0s came in a plastic case. My S&W revolvers I purchased have come in a plastic case, but those are much more expensive. I don't recall any of the firearms I ever purchased being sealed...

Anyway, congrats on your purchase. I own that same gun, but without the safety. To big for me to edc especially in the summer, but many people are able to without any problems. I predict it won't be long before you have a Shield in your stable. I started out with a 4" Springfield XD service model, but quickly moved to something a little smaller, lighter, and concealed better on my frame.

Keep us updated on how it know shoots, carries, and conceals for you.
 
Last edited:
Very nice choice, I have that exact gun and really like it. It's a really good shooter and the ergos are great, and the medium large backstrap seems to fit my hand the best. I tend to carry my Shield or a 380 more often because they're more comfortable, but this is great for in the truck or camper or when I'm out and don't care about concealing. Lots of guys EDC this size with no issues, though.

Edit - Mine came in a decent plastic case with the S&W wax paper. The Shield came in a cardboard box, though.
 
BTW, I really thought the grip texture would be too abrasive as lot of reviewers are saying it's hard to hold but it doesn't feel that bad.
In fact, it's perfect for my hands.
Maybe some guys have too soft hands. ;)
 
None of my M&P Shields or 2.0s came in a plastic case. My S&W revolvers I purchased have come in a plastic case, but those are much more expensive. I don't recall any of the firearms I ever purchased being sealed...

This has been my experience also. Still, I don't use the plastic S&W cases anyway.

Awesome awesome awesome gun by the way.
 
Shame on you S&W that you can't put a $5 case with a $400 gun!

Buy a several thousand dollar Les Baer and you will receive the same awesome packaging. It is what it is..

Plastic cases, bags and boxes are pretty much just clutter, until you want to resale.
 
I have the same pistol only in .40. I would suggest reading the manual. Cleaning & lubing & then shoot it. I like mine.
 
BTW, I really thought the grip texture would be too abrasive as lot of reviewers are saying it's hard to hold but it doesn't feel that bad.
In fact, it's perfect for my hands.
Maybe some guys have too soft hands. ;)
It's fine in the hand, but painful when carrying all day long without an undershirt. An undershirt is a must when I carry mine, but not when I carry any of the other firearms. Not too big of a deal being that I typically wear one anyway.
 
I was looking for 9mm only cleaning that was cheaper but all they had was this Hoppes essential kit NK2 made for multiple calibers.
I guess I have to buy guns with other calibers to use this kit fully. :D
I'm planning on cleaning it little bit and hit the range today.

33766678258_7922d2a9ef_c.jpg

40677469053_82d912d0de_c.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top