Fitting A 1911 Bushing - Question

[Wireman]

I'm looking for suggestions on the final fitting steps on a 1911 bushing. Let's say the bushing has been fitted to the slide - done. Let's say the bushing slides straight onto the end of the barrel with minimal clearance - done. Now we have to gently relieve 2 areas to allow the barrel to pivot up and down slightly during cycling. Those 2 areas are a) the bottom front and b) the top rear of the bushing's working surfaces.

It is relatively easy to obtain a little clearance at a). using a dowel wrapped with fine grit sandpaper. But since the bushing proper is longer than the inside working surface that actually touches the barrel, obtaining clearance at b). the back upper area, is not so easy. Perhaps there is a very fine dremel stone that could reach that spot from the front? Or I could spray glue some 600 grit paper onto the barrel and do both areas at the same time. Using a round file seems too crude.

So...I'm curious how other people might do this job if they are not blessed with a full machine shop? Thanks!

WM

 

[weaselfire]

Sandpaper wrapped around a length of spring stock.

Jeff

 

[Drail]

Back in the day we did it with a wood dowel wrapped in 220-320 grit. Use a dowel that is small enough to allow you to angle it. Keep checking the fit.

 

[1911 guy]

I'm no gunsmith, but the dowel method is what I've always seen used.

 

[rcmodel]

My experience has been.

If you are not fitting a GI barrel with a tight match bushing?
That clearence is usually not needed.

Match barrels and bushings have a raised portion about 1/2" long at the muzzle matching the barrel bushing.
As well as higher locking lugs that generally bottom out before bushing barrel spring becomes a factor.

Then a match barrel is .010" or so smaller behind the larger muzzle band to give a clearance when the slide moves back far enough to drop down and unlock.

Back in the day, I would do the clearence, if necessary, on a tight bushing with a standard GI barrel with a fine sanding drum in a Dremel tool, followed by polishing with a Cratex tip.

But it was seldom if ever needed when using a match barrel & bushing.

Anyway, if you don't need to do it, don't!!

rc

 

[Wireman]

Thank you. I think the method using a piece of spring stock is an excellent suggestion. I am aware of how a modern barrel is made with a bit larger diameter at the muzzle. Naturally, the barrel has plenty of room once the slide moves back 1/2 inch or more. This point does not address the real issue. If the bushing grabs the barrel when the slide is in battery, then you have barrel springing, which is the whole point of relieving the bushing in the first place. In any case the barrel must be free to move the maximum required vertical amount within the first 1/4" of slide movement. Binding in the upward direction results in barrel springing, binding in the opposite direction limits the amount barrel drop available during unlocking. Since unlocking is finished at approximately 1/4" of rearward slide movement, you are still dealing with the 1/2" section of increased diameter at the muzzle of the barrel.

WM