Fixing brass punch marks

[Chiseler]

I use brass punches on my weapons so I don't hurt the steel. Only problem is that it leaves brass-colored smears on the surface. Not a big deal on the bottom of the barrel (M1A recoil spring guide, for instance), but not something I'd want on the sights of a nice 1911 where I was adjusting them. Neither Hoppes nor Rem-Oil took it off. Do any of y'all have a solution to fix this?

 

[Spartacus451]

Eraser? Brass or steel wool? Copper remover? Shouldn't be very difficult.

 

[jaybar]

Bras marks

I use brass punches on my weapons so I don't hurt the steel. Only problem is that it leaves brass-colored smears on the surface. Not a big deal on the bottom of the barrel (M1A recoil spring guide, for instance), but not something I'd want on the sights of a nice 1911 where I was adjusting them. Neither Hoppes nor Rem-Oil took it off. Do any of y'all have a solution to fix this?

Put a little cold blue on a Q-tip and rub the marks vigorously - they will disappear like magic. I use 44/40 from Brownells but most other brands will work equally well. After the marks are gone, rub a little oil onto the area to neutralize any of the cold blue left on the surface.http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1112&title=FORMULA%2044/40~%20INSTANT%20GUN%20BLUE - It works for me.

 

[rcmodel]

Take the brass tracks off with any brand of Copper-Solvent you use for barrel cleaning.

Copper is copper, whether it came off a copper bullet jacket, or a brass punch.

Just dab it on with a Q-Tip, let it set a bit, and then wipe off the green stuff it turns into.


rcmodel

 

[GeorgeR]

Brass Punch Marks

I'm with the Q Tip/cold blue people. Also, if you rub the area you're going to hit with a number 2 pencil, then whack it with the brass punch, (the gun - not the pencil !) the brass mark will rub right off with your finger.

 

[Cannonball888]

Any tips for getting brass marks off parkerized finishes? Use copper solvent or ammonia? Steel wool and cold blue are obviously out of the question.

 

[rcmodel]

Yep!
Copper Solvent there too.


rcmodel

 

[DBR]

Any suggestions for removing marks from aluminum vice jaw inserts from parkerized steel?

 

[rcmodel]

That right there is a tough one.

The best way I know is, don't get them on there to start with.

I often cover my aluminum vice jaws with a couple layers of masking or electrical tape to prevent rub-off of parked or bead-blasted surfaces.

Also have a set of jaws covered with heavy leather I use quite a bit.

As for the brass tracks removal, "don't get them on there to start with" also applies.

I always give a Nylon or Delron punch a try first before I break out the brass punch.

I also keep a 3/8" Oak dowel rod on hand and chop off 3" long "punches" as needed.
They are often all that is needed for sights and such, and won't harm steel or bluing in the slightest.


rcmodel

 

[DBR]

After I had an initial "bad experience", I found that file folder material and if necessary, rosin would prevent the marks and eliminate the slippage.

Aluminum is a fairly reactive metal. Something should be able to remove it without removing the parkerizing.

 

[kimbernut]

Removing brass smears

0000 Steel wool saturated in breakfree works well. I have found that copper punch marks are removed more easily than brass ( I make my copper punches from solid sticks of copper). Many times a delrin or nylon punch will move a sight and leave no marks at all.