Food Safe Coating For Utility Blade

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I have this Tramontina Machete. It's got a 12” blade and is awesome in the kitchen. Yeah, I can do almost anything with it in camp that needs to be done: Chop kindling, fillet a fish, carve a ham, etc. It cost me less than $10.00 (including shipping).

The problem is that it's about as opposite of stainless steel as there ever was. If I so much as leave a drop of water on it for 20 minutes, I have to break out the sandpaper and then, of course, the bench stone.

If this were only a camp knife, wouldn't worry so much about what might leach off into my dinner from a protective coating. But, because I want to use it in the kitchen so much, I'm kinda concerned about what might rub off into my son's food. I'm not looking for HK's, “Hostile Environment,” finish. I just want something that might give me a little lee way.

I tried seasoning it like a cast iron pan – and it looked great – until I used it...

Any ideas? Thanks!
 
Oils

Olive oil
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I prefer grapeseed oil nowadays among the natural food oils.

It has better temperature performance than olive oil and has noticeably less flavor transfer.

That said, if I have both grapeseed and mineral oil available, I take the (food grade) mineral oil, as it's pretty darn near tasteless and has virtually no color at all.

Wax is good, but messy, and tends to transfer to stuff. And a hot water rinse will flush wax down the drain where, frankly, I don't want any wax to be. Detergent will break down oils, but not wax.

Have no experience with Ballistol, although what I've read makes it sound like a good alternative.

 
The patina/rust isn't thought to be dangerous.

The two main options are to use a food grade oil, or to allow or force the patina to develop completely.
 
PotatoeJudge,

I've seen shellac used on wood surfaces, but not metal and wasn't aware that it would adhere to metals with any stability.
 
I've seen shellac used on wood surfaces, but not metal and wasn't aware that it would adhere to metals with any stability.
Click to expand...
One big problem with shellac is that it is extremely easily damaged by water.
 
I think you're worrying needlessly. You're talking about simple carbon steel, after all, and it's been used for thousands of years in kitchen cutlery, so if there was evidence of stuff "leaching off" of the carbon steel and causing people to become ill, it would doubtless have been known by now. Follow the rules that have been in effect for carbon steel since man first started using it: cut with it, clean it off in hot water, dry it, and put it away. Sharpen as necessary. Patina will come just from using it.
 
patina can be forced by a ferric chloride etch, then neutralize with windex or baking soda and polish with 000 steel wool. then I like the mineral oil idea. Carbon steel is going to take some level of regular maintenance no matter what though...
 
I never noticed much difference in camp food, just due to the carbon steel knives used instead of stainless. I've taken to using Mora knives and similar for the kitchen, too. My advice is to not let rust go rampant, but just don't worry about discoloration. Keep it sharp and clean, and you have little to worry over.

For what it's worth, I use food-grade mineral oil with a few drops of clove oil in it - keeps the knives from rusting, and makes them smell pleasant. :)
 
Perhaps I should've been more clear. It's not discoloration or patina I'm concerned about. Every fishing trip leaves red rust I have to remove. Mostly, just a fine coat that comes off easily. It's Florida, and the humidity is relentless. What I want is a semi durable finish that won't mess with my son's RNA replication. In other words, I don't want to find out that Duracoat, parkerizing etc. causes cancer when used on kitchen utensils.

Forcing the patina was exactly what I was looking for. A google search tells me that a couple hours wrapped in a paper towel soaked in vinegar will do just that. I'll let you know how it works.

I do have to say that I got a couple laughs from those who thought I was worried about the carbon steel itself. If that were the case I'd have run out of sporks and chop sticks a long time ago:D
 
Well, the vinegar worked! It's now an ugly, uneven grey. But, this is a beater so I don't care what it looks like. I even left a few drops of water on it for an hour outside and no rust. Problem solved. Thanks guys!

Mole, Maybe. First, all cells replicate RNA before division (DNA directs it). But, he's eight, incredibly curious and has no fear. Whadya say we give him a few pixie sticks, a root beer and your laptop for an hour? I'll let you decide:evil: I took his admin rights away when he was four after he successfully updated the browser and flash while I was doing dishes.
 
I have one or two blades that will rust if you look at them the wrong way. They're kept rust free with ordinary cooking oil, rubbed in - then wiped off (and I've used ordinary motor oil in a pinch). If you own a rolled steel wok for cooking oriental you use the same technique only heat if before the oil treatment... and fire the thing up to smoking BEFORE cooking with it, but that's another topic entirely.
 
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