For upmost accuracy .223 bolt gun

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horsemen61

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Howdy folks,

Ok here is the deal I have a new savage VLP .223 1/7 twist on order

so I have a chance here for a fresh start with a new gun

So my question is what are your hand loading procedures to gain the upmost accuracy out of a bolt action rifle do you

1). Neck size only

2.) Use bushing dies

3.) Full length dies

what is your process I am hoping you can help me refine my process and make the most accurate ammo I can produce!

Thank you!
 
For my single shot; full length sized new brass and processed. During load work up I neck sized only...
 
With new brass, I full length size first. Then I trim, flash hole uniform, primer pocket uniform, etc. Check neck wall thickness & turn if necessary.

Then I weight sort to 1gr, and load for the first time. After that, it's anneal every 3rd loading, and neck size only, with a Lee collet die.

Makes me tired just typing that.....
 
I basically see it as what the balance is between your sweat equity and it's good enough already point. Good quality cases and good quality projectiles give you the best impact. The next tier is case prep and just how much you can improve things. It gets to a point of diminishing returns and can even go negative and cause self induced troubles. Only YOU can determine where to stop or if you even want to stop-----some never do! Don't forget to have fun along the way either or it will turn into a chore quickly.
 
My version of what "right looks like" for the "accuracy" stuff:

1st time loading that lot of Brand new brass:

1. Use a FL bushing die to FL the case, except I use the appropriate bushing to put .002" under the neck diameter of a loaded round (that brass & bullet)
2. Trim all to shortest length in that lot of brass, clean up case mouths.
3. Uniform primer pockets and flash holes.
4. Weigh and segregate into "lots".

IF it's range pick-up brass I:

1. De-prime
2. Clean using wet tumbling with SS pins
3. Check primer pockets for looseness & crimps
4. Anneal
5. Sort by headstamp
6. Follow rest of new brass process

For subsequent firings, clean, anneal and back off my FL Bushing die to just set the shoulder back about .002"
 
First thing I do on any new rifle is check the chamber's neck diameter and write it down. Then I'd say a chamber cast,but I skip this and go straight to finding jam length on the bullet I intend to start with,and write that down. Somewhere on the top of this rig's load book(each rifle here gets it's own book because if the rifle goes down the rd,it's data needs to go with it)is going to also be what the fired neck diameter is. Then,need to know how the FL die,screwed all the way down measures up to the chamber(this is what the chamber cast should bare out).... on a Savage,I'm not the least bit opposed to resetting the headspace based on my FL die. Can do the same with my R700's but is too involved to go into.

If the bullet and twist rate are happy together,which should've already been decided on..... Then,and this also was already thought about,I'll have about 3 powders that are gonna be tested. And pretty much know beforehand what it's gonna like but,you never really know until you try. Same with primers,got my favorites but you owe it,to at least test a cpl others.

Fire form with an eye on not only the cases but will clean during this period. Not from a break in standpoint,although it does slow down the pace so overall,cleaning a bit extra at this time isn't hurting. Nope,cleaning is to learn how easy this barrel is going to be down the rd. I use JB and Remington 10X on factory barrels during this stage. Just trying to get a handle on the barrel. One other thing about early,thorough cleaning is,as a hunter,I have to know what this rig can do coming off a "deep clean". You never know when it may pop up,how many fouling shots does this barrel need to get back into the X? Keeping round count early on helps in this aspect as well.

There's much more to it but that's a decent start. You need to fire form anyway,so take that time to check some things and write it down.
 
1. Get fresh lapua brass
2. Expand necks with mandrel
3. Load with quality bullet I like 80grn match kings
4. Choose temp stable powder "ar comp/varget"
5. Buy a lot of primers and dont change. I use cci srp.
6. Load with wilson on arbor press
7. Resize fl with ground die from forester.
8. Find lands and tune ocw and seating depth.
9. Get trigger time and enjoy life.
 
.223: Redding bushing style threaded FL sizer, Whidden threaded seater.

.308: Redding bushing style threaded FL sizer, Forster threaded seater.

6MM Creedmoor and 6MM Dasher: Wilson hand dies, FL bushing sizer, micro seater.

Buy good brass, use match grade bullets.
 
If the rifle is brand spankin new, I'd give the barrel some attention. I don't know of the quality of the barrels that Savage uses, but odds are that it will be a tack driver until copper fouling turns it into something that isn't. Do some barrel lapping so that you can shoot more than 20 rounds before you have to clean the barrel.

As for loading the ammo, I never really did anything special. Full case prep when you first get it. Other than that, Lee dies, Winchester brass, Federal BR primers and Varget powder. One hole groups with Bergers.
 
Something we can all agree on I believe, no matter the brand.

I will agree to that, except for one brand...Lapua. In my mind. Totally not worth the money and probably wouldn’t buy it even if was priced like others.
 
Laupua brass
69 grain sierra matchkings
federal GMM small rifle primers varget,benchmark,IMR 8208 XBR

these are what I plan to start with should work I’d think
In a 1:7 would not a heavier bullet be optimized. I have never run the numbers but I think the 77 has the same ogive, and the heavier bullets are more vld.
 
When I was first reloading, not knowing any better, I read the manuals.

Each manual has a recommended load for accuracy, and being in that place of not knowing any better, I started with that recipe.

Not knowing any better, I bought the brass, primers, bullets and powder that that recipe called for, and loaded it.

I've had extremely good luck with this method, with a number of guns, since powder companies do way more testing in far more rigorous tests than I'll ever live to do, and their results are definitely repeatable.
 
Always full length size

1. Find your optimal powder charge using either the ladder or OCW methods to determine a charge that produces the least amount of vertical deviation
2. Use seating depth test to find the optimum BTO that produces the tightest groups
3. Perform a primer test to further fine tune the accuracy of your load
4. Take the load that steps 1-3 yielded you and shoot a 20 shot validation test

All of the above will take 70-80 rounds to complete
 
In a bolt rifle, I will "short FL size" with the die backed off a turn or so from full crush. You probably won't see much gain in a relatively tight chamber, but in a "loose" chamber (I load for a lot of vintage military bolt actions) the difference can be SIGNIFICANT...2-3MOA significant. Basically what you're doing is retaining the fire formed shoulder/chamber fit. Depending on your dies and chamber, you may or may not contact the radius of the shoulder in sizing. If you are counting on smooth cycling for a hunting or RF target shooting application, I do not recommend this technique. Some feel the need to bump the shoulder back every few firings with this or neck sizing, I do not.

Other than that, I think you're on the right path. Those 69s are a good bullet for up to 300m or so. If you wish to go farther, look at the 75-77s for mag-length loading, the 75-80 VLD designs for single loading if you're really trying to push the envelope of distance with the cartridge. I've found past 300, wind is a bigger factor than itty bitty groups from a bench. 24 R15, Hornady 75 ELD-M, and Nosler/Norma brass has been my 600 yard load for some time. Prior to that I was running the same mix with the Nosler 80. I have fired the Hornady 75 BTHP at 600 in practice over 23.5 Varget, and it holds up OK, but noticeably more wind drift than with the ELD-M.
 
Depends on the brass wall thickness. Bushing dies work best when you turn the nicks for uniform thickness. Measure a completed round, then take off 0.001-0.002" from that reading. Also with bushing dies you are not suppose to reduce the necks more than 0.005" at a step.
 
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