Forgot to resize my brass......Maybe

[Grizzle]

I had a few life distractions and I am not 100% certain if I resized some .223 brass before loading the casings. Normally I am quite systematic, but I am questioning myself on this one. So here are my questions:

1) How can i verify if I resized my brass or not?
2) If the cases are under the max length of 1.76, what are the known risks.....This is LARGE BATCH.....so not extremely excited to pull every round?

Also, I have never discussed on a forum before, but just curious on any advice or changes people might recommend in my reloading process and/or loads. (18" Laure Predatar 1/8 twist; currently I am under 1/2 moa on my target rounds and around 3/4 moa on my hunting loads for this gun).

1) Tumble brass
2) Resize/Deprime with FL Redding die Model 91111
3) Trim brass (Recently I switched from RCBS Trimmer to the worlds cheapest trimmer.....still evaluating if I am happy with the change there. I wanted something quicker, but trim length does differ by about .015" vs more traditional method. Not sure how much that will really affect my accuracy)
4) Using the Lyman flash hold uniformer tool on the lyman case prep center. Set to where i can barely see trimming outside of flash hole.
5) Tumble brass a second time with SS media with frankford arsenal tumbler. This eliminates need of cleaning primer pocket for me.....brass comes out beautiful.
6) Campfer/Debur on prep station......I still hit the primer uniformer and cleaner....but considering eliminating the cleaner because it seems pointless after tumbling)
7) Prime brass using 7.5 rem small rifle
8) Weigh out 25g varget for both of these loads. (I am also beginning to experiment with some ball powders.....just loaded up several with Ramshot TAC to see how it works out)
9) Seating 69gr SMK for target and 60gr Nossler to recommended COAL using forster ultra micrometer seating die. (I havent been extremely satisfied with my hunting load.....so I am trying out some other bullets in another test batch using 62gr Barnes TTSX BT. I also have some 62gr sierra varminters, 77gr SMKs, and 73gr berger BT Target that were given to me.)

Thanks in advance for any answers or advice regarding the above.

 

[rfwobbly]

Besides making external measurements with a caliper, probably the quickest and easiest way to tell is simply hold a cartridge in your hand and push it against a wooden surface. One of the most important parts of re-sizing is the neck sizing which helps hold the bullet.

If the bullet is easily moved (less than ~3 lbs of pressure), then the case was not resized.

If the cases do not have the bullets seated just yet, then the case neck inside diameter (ID) should be about 0.002" smaller than the bullet OD. Or, you can simply seat a single bullet and do the first test.

 

[Grizzle]

If the bullet is easily moved (less than ~3 lbs of pressure), then the case was not resized.

Out of curiosity, where is the best place to take the caliper measurement on the case? I measure length all the time.....but not the gerth........However if bullet movement is a good method of checking then I am in good shape.....Thanks for the help

 

[1KPerDay]

Also drop a few into a chamber and see if they go in and out easily

 

[Ireload2]

How long have you been reloading?
Never reload when distracted, rushed, fatigued or mentally out to lunch.
It is very important to manage your reloading activities so you will not make mistakes. You must be struggling if you have to ask about a way to determine if you resized your cases.
How did the old primers get out and new primers get in?
Is there more to this story?

 

[Walkalong]

Try the neck tension test, should be obvious.

 

[iShoot17]

You could also try a case gauge!

 

[Grizzle]

How long have you been reloading?
Never reload when distracted, rushed, fatigued or mentally out to lunch.
It is very important to manage your reloading activities so you will not make mistakes. You must be struggling if you have to ask about a way to determine if you resized your cases.
How did the old primers get out and new primers get in?
Is there more to this story?

I've been reloading for quite a while, but I've never had reason to question if I had resized or not......long story short it wasn't normal distractions......it was a divorce that went on for about a year and some things got moved around. The whole reason I questioned myself on this one is because during some normal checks I found a miss labeled box of rounds that suggested they were ready for loading, and when going through normal checks I found they were not properly trimmed. I also found a WMA rounds in a container whose color was meant to indicate LC. Basically, some stuff was put where I had not put it. As far as primers go.....this would not be the best tell tale for me because on occasion my young daughter likes to help dad. She isn't strong enough to use a sizing die......so i let her use a simple decap die from time to time so she can feel like she is just like dad. In most circumstances.....this wouldn't be an issue for me as most of my rifles are bolt actions......so I would know how to check. This is actually the first semi-auto I have ever loaded for......and don't have as much knowledge on the subject as I would with a bolt. I've probably loaded around 3K for this specific rifle......and I keep boxes labeled with what step was last completed.

 

[Grizzle]

You could also try a case gauge!

I've done that with my LE Wilson Gage......but I thought the gages only checked head spacing/trim length?

 

[1KPerDay]

they do. but if it won't drop into one of those you definitely know it hasn't been sized. and if it drops in but is 5 thousandths above the long shelf, you know it hasn't been sized.

 

[edwardware]

Find, or make, a sample of fired brass from your rifle to use as a basis for measurement. Neck diameter will probably be easiest, shoulder position with a comparator next.

Unless the firing chamber was unbelievably tight, an unresized neck would hardly hold a bullet.

 

[Blue68f100]

Like other have said, test neck tension by applying load to the bullet. Normally 223/556 brass fired in a simi-auto the necks are stretched enough that they will not hold a bullet, just falls through.

Steps 5 & 6. You may not need to debur after running the brass through a wet SS pins cleaning. This should remove the sharp edges after trimming. That or just do the inside campfor/bevel and let the pins knock off the sharp edge. If your getting a lot of flashing, check your cutter of brass deposits. Brass can and will stick to the cutter edge. A little lube from time to time will eliminate the brass from sticking. If the 0.015" variation is due to the holder, need to correct that. Maybe you have some rims that are deformed causing the problem.

If your using a drill mounted trimmer, your brass should be no more than 0.002" deviation. These type trimmer measure off the shoulder. So if all the brass is the same you get very consistent length.

Another way is to use steel wool in a magnetic bit socket big enough for the necks. This works real well, all it does is deburr, nothing else.

 

[Walkalong]

I've done that with my LE Wilson Gage......but I thought the gages only checked head spacing/trim length?

The Wilson checks headspace and length, but not diameter. The Sheridan and the JP do.

The best way to check if they were sized is going to be neck tension. Unsized brass will have very poor neck tension, or even let the bullet slip right in.

I am assuming they drop in the Wilson gauge?

 

[Ironicaintit]

In your list of steps, you have size and deprime together. If that's the case, the ones with the fired primer are probably the ones you're after.

If not....

Any cases not sized will definitely jump out at you, as you seat the bullet.

 

[ponchh]

My second favorite thing about indexing off the shoulder to trim. If it's not resized it will not go in
the trimmer.

 

[entropy]

I had a few life distractions and I am not 100% certain if I resized some .223 brass before loading the casings.

Reloading is not an endeavor to be undertaken while distracted. My motto is: When in doubt, pull 'em out. Makes for a good lesson learned.

 

[rfwobbly]

Out of curiosity, where is the best place to take the caliper measurement on the case? ....Thanks for the help.

See that cartridge diagram in your reloading manual ? See all those dimensions ? Those, for the most part, are maximum dimensions which the case has to measure at, or smaller than, or the cartridge won't chamber. You can spot check those with a caliper, or as already been mentioned, use a case gauge.

No need to thank me. Just giving back a portion of what's already been shared with me. Sir Issac Newton described it as "standing on the shoulders of giants." You hang around here long and you'l feel the same way, my fiend.

 

[rfwobbly]

I've done that with my LE Wilson Gage......but I thought the gages only checked head spacing/trim length?

Ahh ! You are very simply confusing cartridge shape with bottleneck cartridge head space.
Head spacing on a bottleneck rifle can only be checked by referencing the same chamber that the cartridge is to be fired in. This becasue, although the chamber cutter is made to exacting standards for shape, the cutter can be pushed into the barrel during the cutting process by variable amounts. So the depth of cut is what determines head space.

Remember, head space is between the bolt and the cartridge shoulder. So if we take this to the extreme for the sake of explanation.... if the cutter was pushed to within 3 inches of the muzzle, The chamber shape could be perfect, while the head space might measure in feet !

Hope this mental image creates some clarity for you.

 

[jeeptim]

Chamber and pull. If goes bang good to go!
If not well pull every one and you'l never do it again.

 

[tcoz]

As a few people have said, neck tension will tell you. If you were able to seat bullets and none of them fell through the neck, then they were likely resized.
If the brass had been fired in a bolt action rifle, most, if not all, of the rounds will probably chamber and be within spec dimensions whether or not they were resized.

 

[Grizzle]

Like other have said, test neck tension by applying load to the bullet. Normally 223/556 brass fired in a simi-auto the necks are stretched enough that they will not hold a bullet, just falls through.

Steps 5 & 6. You may not need to debur after running the brass through a wet SS pins cleaning. This should remove the sharp edges after trimming. That or just do the inside campfor/bevel and let the pins knock off the sharp edge. If your getting a lot of flashing, check your cutter of brass deposits. Brass can and will stick to the cutter edge. A little lube from time to time will eliminate the brass from sticking. If the 0.015" variation is due to the holder, need to correct that. Maybe you have some rims that are deformed causing the problem.

If your using a drill mounted trimmer, your brass should be no more than 0.002" deviation. These type trimmer measure off the shoulder. So if all the brass is the same you get very consistent length.

Another way is to use steel wool in a magnetic bit socket big enough for the necks. This works real well, all it does is deburr, nothing else.

 

[Grizzle]

Thanks for your comments......And I agree with the deburing.....its never seemed very necessary after the second tumble.....On the trimmer issue.......I'm still playing with it and it is a very recent "upgrade" I have done for .223 only due to the amount I've been loading that round. What I have noticed so far is that the trimmer is much more accurate on LC and WMA/Winchester brass (More like a .002-.005 deviation). I think part of the issue with this specific drill mount trimmer is that the shoulder measure is some type of polymer or plastic which is likely providing more give. I bought this trimmer(the worlds cheapest trimmer) on ebay for $24.00.......I am already considering returning and spending a little more cash on the triway, worlds finest trimmer or something else.

 

[Grizzle]

The Wilson checks headspace and length, but not diameter. The Sheridan and the JP do.

The best way to check if they were sized is going to be neck tension. Unsized brass will have very poor neck tension, or even let the bullet slip right in.

I am assuming they drop in the Wilson gauge?

View attachment 777105

Yep......the drop in with no problem.....and my neck tension is good.

 

[Walkalong]

Sounds like they are good to go. Have you tried pushing the bullet on one of them against a hard surface and seeing if the get pushed back in the case any appreciable amount?

 

[mdi]

Did you deprime them? If you didn't use a dedicated deprimming die then you sized the case...