Found 9mm resized cases would not plonk

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gifbohane

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My recent experience with 9 mm range brass shows about 20 % will not plonk after resizing. Brass is definitely once fired (saw the guy fire it) but up to 1/8 of an inch will protrude from case gauge.Some just slightly.

I think that some of this might be Glock bulge but cannot explain it any other way.

Thoughts?
 
Did they plunk ok in your barrel? If I recall correctly (haven't checked in a while) I've had sized cases that officially didn't pass my case gauge but have fit/plunked in my barrel just fine.

As to why some pass and others don't - that's for folks smarter than me to comment on.
 
What case gauge are you using? Different brands are cut differently. Wilson is cut to SAAMI max cartridge dimensions and Dillon is SAAMI minimum chamber diameter and max cartridge OAL. I don't know about other brands.
 
Where is it hanging up? Try marking up the case, inserting into the case gauge, and then pull them out. Shiny spots will reveal the problem area.

I've seen extractors leave burrs that will not allow the rim to fit inside a case gauge. Try pushing the case into the gauge backwards, it should go in about 1/4" inch, if it doesn't then the problem may be a messed up rim.
 
You didn’t mention what company’s sizing die you used. Some size deeper than others.

Also, did you adjust the die to kiss the shellholder?
 
Glock bulge occurs with straight walled cases like .40 and 10MM. 9MM cases are tapered and the Glock barrels are chambered for SAAMI specs and no bulge.
 
I think that some of this might be Glock bulge, but cannot explain it any other way.

Thoughts ?

• Improper OAL
• Improper taper crimp settings
• Improper sizing
• Non-standard brass *

* 9mm cases with a "step" on the interior (Freedom Munitions) don't always size correctly. They usually split out after very few reloads, too. The step can also control the Min OAL if the reloaded bullet is physically longer than the original. So if your buddy gave you free "stepped cases", he didn't do you any favors.

Also check for brass plated steel cases with a strong magnet. These look like brass, but hate to be re-sized.
 
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Guys -Thanks for the responses.

My gauge is an L E Wilson.

The taper crimp or any crimp does not play into this since the carts are only resized and then plonked. With a 80 percent success rate.

It happens mostly with S & B cases and sometimes with R P cases. 100 at a time of each are resized at a time. A few (of 100) of the WIN cases do not plonk.

Sizing is done according to RCBS instructions..kiss the top of the cartridge holder, lock down and and size. I even tried (slight) camming over to see the effect, nothing changed.

I thought that 9mm Glocks fired from unsupported chambers and did create glock smile after firing.

There is no step on any of my range brass

Will mark the carts and see where they hang up.

Thanks Again
 
I plunk test in a case gage.
Anything that doesn't pass easily, is given a second chance in a gun barrel.
Any failures on the second chance are disassembled, discarded, or reluctantly shot separately, by me.
 
Interesting ...half of the rejects that I retested would not allow the extractor into the gauge. The remainder would not lead the base of the head into the gauge.
 
There are a lot of brands of semi-autos that use unsupported chambers, Glock got branded for it but in actuality all most all 9 mm chambers are unsupported somewhere. Mostly around the ejector.
I have a Wilson gage for my .357mags and there are several times my resized rounds won't seat in it fully but fall right into the cylinder of all my guns.
Makes me wonder what the point is of using it.
for 9 mms I use my barrel for a case gage, if they fall in it I consider them to be good.
 
Interesting ...half of the rejects that I retested would not allow the extractor into the gauge. The remainder would not lead the base of the head into the gauge.
I have no idea what that means...
Pictures would probably help. Is the case head nicked up from the extractor? I've had this happen on 45's before.
 
I had that problem when I started using my reloads in a tight barrel (Dan Wesson Pointman). The solution was to get the undersized 9mm die (made by Lee, available from many of the normal places) and to make sure that the die was adjusted to "touch" the shell holder to size as close to the base as possible. These two fixed the problem and also made my reloads a lot more accurate in general.
 
I have an EMP (Well, did, gave it to my son) with a SAMMI minimum chamber (Was under until SA fixed it) and so now I check all of my sized brass with my Wilson case gauge. If it fits slips into the gauge and will fall back out of its own weight it passes and I know it will fit the EMP without locking it up. With range brass I lose 105 to 15% that way. Would they fit other barrels? yes, but I didn't know which rounds would be fired in the EMP and took no chances. I still do this even though I no longer have the pistol.

Most fail by just a little, but some would poke out an 1/8" on occasion. Fired in a loose chamber maybe. Over pressure maybe.

If it is only the rim that holds it out, it might be a burr you can clean up.

Since the 9MM is a tapered case, make sure the shell holder is just touching the die while actually sizing a case.

Old gauge I gave my son when he got the EMP.
Wilson 9MM Case Gauge Pic 1.JPG

My new gauge.
Wilson 9MM Case Gauge - New One.jpg

The old one again.
Wilson 9MM Case Gauge With Bullet.JPG

Failed case.
Wilson Guage with Failed 9MM FC case.JPG
 
I haven't seen any but I have heard S+B is making some brass coated steel cases.
That might be a possible issue, but I have never heard of any RP steel cases.
Blowback 9mm PCCs are becoming more popular possible if the brass was fired in one with a loose chamber
that they may be a cause of the issue. (or brass loaded to 9mm "Major" )
The resizing die can only resize down so far, that last little bit does not get sized unless you use a roll sizer.
Given that I get "free" 9mm brass after I pick it up I just accept I will have a few rejects.
I use a Lee resize die (which seems to size a bit tighter than my Hornady 9mm die I bought later) and I have very few that have issues.
 
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Where is it hanging up?
I've seen extractors leave burrs that will not allow the rim to fit inside a case gauge. Try pushing the case into the gauge backwards, it should go in about 1/4" inch, if it doesn't then the problem may be a messed up rim.

^^^^This^^^

And what the OP said happens to me sometimes, so I pass them thru a Lee Bulge Buster to iron them out. Works great.
 
Walk- That last photo in your response is exactly the way the case and the gauge look when it will not plonk.

Per advise I did put the case into the top of the gauge bottom first and the gauge would not allow the extractor in at all and other would let it in but ONLY the extractor. It would stop cold after the extractor ledge entered the gauge.

Thanks to all for the advice.
 
Given that I get "free" 9mm brass after I pick it up I just accept I will have a few rejects.
Me too.

The only 9mm I load anymore is *FC* and Speer. I save the Blazer, Xtreme, and PMC for different friends and give away the rest in lots of 1K. I save (real) once fired W-W for future revolver use
 
Per advise I did put the case into the top of the gauge bottom first and the gauge would not allow the extractor in at all and other would let it in but ONLY the extractor. It would stop cold after the extractor ledge entered the gauge.
That is normal.
 
I know you can run 9mm "Luger" thru the MAK die then trim it to make MAK brass.
Off thread but
You use the MAK die as the bulge buster?
9MAK rim .392 / base .392
9mm rim .394/base .391
 
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