Frog lube failed miserably

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I'm using 0w-20 motor oil both inside and as a wipe on the outside of my guns and have never had a problem, I also use motorkote an oil additive that I used when I was driving a big rig, it made the transmission and rears run cooler and 625hp cat run smoother.
 
How to have a successful gun oil business:

1) Package Hype - Understand that these might as well be essential oils for men.

2) Promise everything. Protects from rust better than air and saltwater! Lubes the firearm as far as we can tell! May even clean fouling better than kerosene!

3) Get an endorsement by someone people **think** would be an authority. No, not someone actually from the lubricant industry - they are boring. You need someone with tattoos, a beard, and an authoritative opinion on things they know very little about!

4) Give away some free product and pay some people to write five star reviews

5) When asked about an SDS sheet, just dance around the question, talk about your secret formula, and say, "We're working on it!."

6) Make sure to never tell anyone that you buy wholesale lubricant for pennies per ounce, add a few secret formula additives, a scent, and repackage it.

7) When people find out the composition of your gun oil, don't say anything!

8a) When people find problems with your product, make a PDF document to dispel the myth of a problem!
https://www.froglube.com/froglube-documents
8b) Make sure to redirect blame to the customer for product problems. Did you know that it is your own fault if your action is sluggish when using this product! It is from either lack of cleaning or applying too much lube. It is very clearly stated in the cold weather use guide!
 
How to have a successful gun oil business:

1) Package Hype - Understand that these might as well be essential oils for men.

2) Promise everything. Protects from rust better than air and saltwater! Lubes the firearm as far as we can tell! May even clean fouling better than kerosene!

3) Get an endorsement by someone people **think** would be an authority. No, not someone actually from the lubricant industry - they are boring. You need someone with tattoos, a beard, and an authoritative opinion on things they know very little about!

4) Give away some free product and pay some people to write five star reviews

5) When asked about an SDS sheet, just dance around the question, talk about your secret formula, and say, "We're working on it!."

6) Make sure to never tell anyone that you buy wholesale lubricant for pennies per ounce, add a few secret formula additives, a scent, and repackage it.

7) When people find out the composition of your gun oil, don't say anything!

8a) When people find problems with your product, make a PDF document to dispel the myth of a problem!
https://www.froglube.com/froglube-documents
8b) Make sure to redirect blame to the customer for product problems. Did you know that it is your own fault if your action is sluggish when using this product! It is from either lack of cleaning or applying too much lube. It is very clearly stated in the cold weather use guide!

Just buy this!:)

https://www.breachbangclear.com/fake-science-BS-and-your-favorite-gun-lube/
 
So just a heads up, all of the Internet rumors of frog lube gumming up and causing problems in cold weather hold true.

scenario:

bolt action rifle (ruger american), 20 degree weather, some snow, snow on the ground, consistent winds. Sat in the elements from 12:30pm until decided to do bore check at 4:30 pm.

upon deciding to do a bore check, lots of snow and debris from walking through grown up fields, potential long shot at game looming, I attempt to operate the bolt and clear the chamber, bolt is super tight. Normal pressure not even budging the bolt handle. Start to get the “w t f”’s and point rifle in safe direction to crank on the bolt handle. Couple palm smacks and it’s up. Attempt to pull bolt to the rear, stiff. Palm smacks engaged. Bolt breaks free and ejects from the gun completely, now laying on the snow covered ground. Frog lube in the bolt take down lever had frozen it in the open position.

found some weed seeds in the bore, cleared it out and installed bolt per normal after cupping the action and the bolt in my hand to thaw out a little.

my bottle will go in the trash and now every rifle I decide to take in the cold woods will require a full break down and clean with something other than this gimmick

just a FYI from personal experience.

Here is my preferred medicine for your complaint: https://www.qmaxxproducts.com/product/blu/

I have been using this for a number of years since I discovered it at a Friends of NRA event. After cleaning, it leaves a hard, dry microscopic thin layer that seals the metal. After a half dozen or so uses, it makes the metal all but completely impervious to finger prints, weather, etc. I hunt in SW SD near the Pine Ridge Reservation for deer, peasants and grouse every year with my brother and so. I have never had a firearm malfunction since using Qmaxx Blu. And, to top it off, my old 1960's vintage Browning Auto 5 Sweet Sixteen runs smooth and trouble free. And looks really nice, too! ;)

Blu is a cleaner, lubricant and preservative wrapped in one. It has solvents in it, but they are only the vehicle to deliver the product, or so I have been told.

Funny thing: A rep for the Qmaxx people told me to use it on the chrome wheels on my truck and that it would keep the brake dust from sticking to them. So I did. Now, all I do is drive it through the car wash. If I don't want any water spots, I will wipe them dry with a paper towel. :thumbup:

Don't poo-poo it until you've tried it! :D
 
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Here is my preferred medicine for your complaint: https://www.qmaxxproducts.com/product/blu/

I have been using this for a number of years since I discovered it at a Friends of NRA event. After cleaning, it leaves a hard, dry microscopic thin layer that seals the metal. After a half dozen or so uses, it makes the metal all but completely impervious to finger prints, weather, etc. I hunt in SW SD near the Pine Ridge Reservation for deer, peasants and grouse every year with my brother and so. I have never had a firearm malfunction since using Qmaxx Blu. And, to top it off, my old 1960's vintage Browning Auto 5 Sweet Sixteen runs smooth and trouble free. And looks really nice, too! ;)

Blu is a cleaner, lubricant and preservative wrapped in one. It has solvents in it, but they are only the vehicle to deliver the product, or so I have been told.

Funny thing: A rep for the Qmaxx people told me to use it on the chrome wheels on my truck and that it would keep the brake dust from sticking to them. So I did. Now, all I do is drive it through the car wash. If I don't want any water spots, I will wipe them dry with a paper towel. :thumbup:

Don't poo-poo it until you've tried it! :D

Looks Promising

MSDS

Benzine(Toluen) Kerosene,Mineral Spirits(Naptha) and magic corrosion inhibitor,

https://myfwc.com/fishing/saltwater/recreational/sharks/

Every try Ezeox?
 
Here is my preferred medicine for your complaint: https://www.qmaxxproducts.com/product/blu/

I have been using this for a number of years since I discovered it at a Friends of NRA event. After cleaning, it leaves a hard, dry microscopic thin layer that seals the metal. After a half dozen or so uses, it makes the metal all but completely impervious to finger prints, weather, etc. I hunt in SW SD near the Pine Ridge Reservation for deer, peasants and grouse every year with my brother and so. I have never had a firearm malfunction since using Qmaxx Blu. And, to top it off, my old 1960's vintage Browning Auto 5 Sweet Sixteen runs smooth and trouble free. And looks really nice, too! ;)

Blu is a cleaner, lubricant and preservative wrapped in one. It has solvents in it, but they are only the vehicle to deliver the product, or so I have been told.

Funny thing: A rep for the Qmaxx people told me to use it on the chrome wheels on my truck and that it would keep the brake dust from sticking to them. So I did. Now, all I do is drive it through the car wash. If I don't want any water spots, I will wipe them dry with a paper towel. :thumbup:

Don't poo-poo it until you've tried it! :D
A lot of shotgunners swear by Qmaxx Blu. I haven't tried it yet myself, but the top shooters I shoot with love it.
 
Tetra Gun grease reacts the same to cold weather.

I had a slide on a 1911 cease to cycle at about 20 degrees.

Total gimmick garbage. Using LW synthetic motor oil now.
 
Eezox works great as a rust preventative. Sucks as a cleaner and lube. I first tried it when I got a Seecamp, as they recommended it as a "do all" LCP type thing. I didnt find that to be the case.

It shines as a rust preventor/protectant though, and I do use it for that.

Yep the Seecampers are "rabid" about the stuff:) But then they like Ren Wax as well,:uhoh:
Actually it doesn't "suck" it may not be the best but is right in the middle. We have no tests of Blu so who knows. No one CLP does "everything" well. But then we get into a "best" gun care product thread:what:

http://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/274/review-comparison-gun-care-products
 
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Lubricant for guns needs to perform the following:

- Lubricate moving parts.
- Coat the parts they are applied to for corrosion resistance.
- Remain on the parts applied to for a reasonably long period of time based on usage/storage conditions.

I am leary of gun lubricants that claim to do additional things, such as:

- Act as a solvent.
- Act as a penetrant.
- Act as a cleaner.

As an engineer, I question these "all-in-one" products because many times you end up sacrificing the quality of one desirable trait in order to gain other desired traits.

For example, penetrants tend to contain chemicals which are more volatile in order to give the concoction its ability to wick into tight seams and such. However, over time these chemicals evaporate away, changing other characteristics of the product.

The end result may be that at some point in time you'll no longer have an adequate coating to provide lubrication or corrosion resistance because it's literally evaporated away, or that the lubricating properties have significantly changed and what used to be slippery is now sticky.

In my opinion, some of these products may actually have a legitimate use in the short term; when you're in the field, perhaps, and you need to get your firearm functional "right now".

Therefore I tend to keep my gun oil simple and basic, without trying to make it do everything...I use specific solvents and cleaners, separate from my lubricants.

THAT SAID:

So long as your chosen product meets those basic traits I originally listed above, based on your usage and conditions, more power to you.

But do consider this when winding your way through all the advertising hype for these various products.
 
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Lubricant for guns needs to perform the following:

- Lubricate moving parts.
- Coat the parts they are applied to for corrosion resistance.
- Remain on the parts applied to for a reasonably long period of time based on usage/storage conditions.

I am leery of gun lubricants that claim to do additional things, such as:

- Act as a solvent.
- Act as a penetrant.
- Act as a cleaner.

As an engineer, I question these "all-in-one" products because many times you end up sacrificing the quality of one desirable trait in order to gain other desired traits.

For example, penetrants tend to contain chemicals which are more volatile in order to give the concoction its ability to wick into tight seams and such. However, over time these chemicals evaporate away, changing other characteristics of the product.

The end result may be that at some point in time you'll no longer have an adequate coating to provide lubrication or corrosion resistance because it's literally evaporated away, or that the lubricating properties have significantly changed and what used to be slippery is now sticky.

In my opinion, some of these products may actually have a legitimate use in the short term; when you're in the field, perhaps, and you need to get your firearm functional "right now".

Therefore I tend to keep my gun oil simple and basic, without trying to make it do everything...I use specific solvents and cleaners, separate from my lubricants.

THAT SAID:

So long as your chosen product meets those basic traits I originally listed above, based on your usage and conditions, more power to you.

But do consider this when winding your way through all the advertising hype for these various products.

Well said> Just use something and use it often.
 
Well said> Just use something and use it often.

It would also do well to put things into perspective.

Firearms have been around for quite a while now, and it's no surprise that cleaners and lubricants have evolved quite a bit over the history of firearms.

However, is pretty safe to say that any actual "improvements" in lubricants over the last several decades are honestly NOT going to be "radical gamer changers". At best, they are more likely to be "fractionally better", or perhaps "just another choice", not significantly different than any other quality lubricant.

It's kind of like someone introducing another type or caliber of ammunition nowadays. Modern firearms and ammunition have pretty much reached the limits of possible performance, which is based on the engineering limitations inherent with powder driven projectile weapons. As a result, even the most exotic ammunition one could come up with is honestly not going to result in a radical improvement of terminal ballistics, despite advertising hype.
 
Frog Lube is nothing but mint scented, rebranded roller coaster track lubricant. It is bio degradable so as not to contaminate the ground under the tracks at amusement parks. I do not and will not use anything bio degradable on my firearms. Bio degradable means it starts to decompose as soon as you apply it. Which is the reason guns stored with this crap over any length of time will gum up and lock up.

It's much the same with wheel flange grease the railroads use. They do not want to contaminate the ground along the right of way. So it is bio degradable as well. The railroads who use it claim it completely breaks down within 60 days after being exposed to the elements. Frog Lube, Fireclean, (which is nothing but Canola Oil), will do much the same.

Frog Lube had everyone B.S'd for a while. With all of their ridiculous, time consuming application methods, requiring using hair dryers, along with all of their other nonsense. Slowly but surely people are seeing this worthless crap for what it is. My guns receive nothing but petroleum based lubricants. I'll put organic oil in my salad..... Not on my weapons.
 
It would also do well to put things into perspective.

Firearms have been around for quite a while now, and it's no surprise that cleaners and lubricants have evolved quite a bit over the history of firearms.

However, is pretty safe to say that any actual "improvements" in lubricants over the last several decades are honestly NOT going to be "radical gamer changers". At best, they are more likely to be "fractionally better", or perhaps "just another choice", not significantly different than any other quality lubricant.

It's kind of like someone introducing another type or caliber of ammunition nowadays. Modern firearms and ammunition have pretty much reached the limits of possible performance, which is based on the engineering limitations inherent with powder driven projectile weapons. As a result, even the most exotic ammunition one could come up with is honestly not going to result in a radical improvement of terminal ballistics, despite advertising hype.

This article sums it up very well!:)

https://www.breachbangclear.com/fake-science-BS-and-your-favorite-gun-lube/
 
Looks Promising

MSDS

Benzine(Toluen) Kerosene,Mineral Spirits(Naptha) and magic corrosion inhibitor,

https://myfwc.com/fishing/saltwater/recreational/sharks/

Every try Ezeox?

Yes, it is more than promising. The stuff actually works. The Benzine(Toluen) Kerosene,Mineral Spirits(Naptha) are the vehicle to carry the patented corrosion inhibitor. I have been told by a retired chemical engineer that it works like this:
The solvents are the vehicle that contain the corrosion inhibitor. The solution is heavier than water (it is, I have verified this). The Qmaxx purges any water or water vapor off the surface. It works best when applied to bare metal. When the vehicle evaporates, it deposits the corrosion inhibitor behind in a microscopically thin layer. The deposit is hard with lubricity characteristics and has a wear resistance coefficient. I have verified the wear resistance: I began applying it to my new Remington shaver screen and cutting blades before its first use. I use the shaver daily and reapply Qmaxx to it when I can no longer smell the stuff when the shaver is running. Usually about 4-6 weeks. That shaver will be 3 years old the first week of January and I am still using the original blades and screen.

I have never tried Ezeox. Never heard of it until now. But I am quite satisfied with the Qmaxx performance so far.
 
However, is pretty safe to say that any actual "improvements" in lubricants over the last several decades are honestly NOT going to be "radical gamer changers". At best, they are more likely to be "fractionally better", or perhaps "just another choice", not significantly different than any other quality lubricant.

Well, the neat thing about the Qmaxx stuff is that you do not lubricate your gun after using it. It dries hard and dense with a wear resistance. That means nothing sticks to it.
I'll give a real world example: I have a shooting buddy that builds his own ARs just for kicks. He has 2 large safes full of the things. Why, I have no idea. (ARs are not my thing.) When I discovered Qmaxx, I called him an asked if he had an gun that needed cleaning, and of course he did. I then asked if he would try the Qmaxx stuff on it. "Sure." He lives very close by so I went right over and 20 minutes later he had cleaned his "test bed" AR that he used specifically for test load development. (Why a specific gin for load development I do not know. It's his way of doing things, I guess.) The only thing he said while cleaning was "Hmf." About a dozen times. After he was done he said: "That was easy." I asked him to take it out and shoot a hundred or so rounds through it and clean it again and let me know how it all works out for his AR fettish.
Two weeks later he calls me back and says he put over 400 rounds through the gun without a hiccup. Came home, disassembled it to clean it, wiped it down and put it back together without cleaning it because it wasn't dirty. I wasn't there, I didn't see it. I'm just going by what he said, but he has never lied to me before and I have known Frank for at least 12 years.

ETA:
BTW, after using QMAXX, wipe off the excess and allow the parts to dry. Do NOT lube afterwards. Lubricants will attract and hold dirt, grit and contaminants. Qmaxx will not. Ya gotta see it to believe it.
 
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How to have a successful gun oil business:

1) Package Hype - Understand that these might as well be essential oils for men.

2) Promise everything. Protects from rust better than air and saltwater! Lubes the firearm as far as we can tell! May even clean fouling better than kerosene!

3) Get an endorsement by someone people **think** would be an authority. No, not someone actually from the lubricant industry - they are boring. You need someone with tattoos, a beard, and an authoritative opinion on things they know very little about!

4) Give away some free product and pay some people to write five star reviews

5) When asked about an SDS sheet, just dance around the question, talk about your secret formula, and say, "We're working on it!."

6) Make sure to never tell anyone that you buy wholesale lubricant for pennies per ounce, add a few secret formula additives, a scent, and repackage it.

7) When people find out the composition of your gun oil, don't say anything!

8a) When people find problems with your product, make a PDF document to dispel the myth of a problem!
https://www.froglube.com/froglube-documents
8b) Make sure to redirect blame to the customer for product problems. Did you know that it is your own fault if your action is sluggish when using this product! It is from either lack of cleaning or applying too much lube. It is very clearly stated in the cold weather use guide!
Most annoyingly TRUE, and this applies generally to 90+% of "new, amazing" products brought to market in just about any category. :)
Marketing BS.
 
I'm using 0w-20 motor oil both inside and as a wipe on the outside of my guns and have never had a problem, I also use motorkote an oil additive that I used when I was driving a big rig, it made the transmission and rears run cooler and 625hp cat run smoother.


I use Mobile 1 on everything I own. A quart runs around $5 or $6. I like it because there is no odor like dino oil.

Plus if I forget my oil I can always just pull the dip stick out a few times and have enough to wipe down a gun
 
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