Getting started: Swedish Mauser vs. L-E 303

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BullRunBear

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I've got a couple of Mil-Surp rifles I haven't shot in over twenty years: a Swedish Mauser, made in 1905, and a Lee-Enfield No.4 Mk I in .303 British. They aren't much to look at but the bores are very good and the actions smooth and solid.

Just for fun I want to start using them for paper punching at 200 to 300 yards, using the as-issued iron sights and gas check cast bullets. The shooting would be off hand or from a bench. I remember the 6.5x55 round as very soft shooting/comfortable and both were decently accurate with commercial ammo.

I have brass and dies for both calibers and a mold (185 gr. RN gas check, .312 diameter) for the 303. Don't have a mold yet for the Swede.

Is one caliber easier/more forgiving for reloading? Does one rifle lend itself to careful markmanship more than the other because of better sights or caliber? Any suggestions on using these rifles would be appreciated. I would be loading single rounds. I want to use both rifles eventually but would like to start with the easier to use gun.

Thanks for any help.

Jeff
 
I think it comes down to accuracy, recoil, and sights. By and large, the Swedes are more accurate. I've shot accurate Enfields, but my most accurate Enfield would barely give the least accurate of my Swedes a run for its money.

On the other hand, the factory sights on the Swede are pretty bad. If you can find one, or have yours drilled and tapped for the diopter target sights, you will be a lot happier shooting at that range. If you decide to shoot the Enfield, and it doesn't already have the micrometer adjustable rear sight, get one. They're definitely worth it. I believe Redfield or Lyman also made a no drill and tap peep rear sight for it. That would be nice too.

The 96 swede is a very light recoiling rifle. The Enfield isn't. With gas check bullets and handloads, I'm not certain what the recoil would be like, but with regular loads, it is quite a noticeable difference.

I think the only advantage the Enfield has in your situation is its sights. Find some factory diopters for that swede, have a gunsmith D&T the receiver for them, and you will be a happy camper.
 
The No4 well have a rear mounted peep sight, the Mauser has a mid mounted open sight. The Lighter 6.5 may have a little less felt recoil that the heavier .303. Ammo isn't cheap for either one.

You well need to shoot both to find the most accurate.
 
I like my Enfield #4 but I also really like my Swedish Mauser, although it is about 40 years newer than yours so either should be capable of 300 yd fun shooting. I don't load cast rifle bullets; would there be a problem with the bullets leading the barrel at the velocities you would need to reach for accurate 300 yard shots with the Enfield?
 
I have never loaded lead for my enfield. I think you should get gas checks for your bullets, otherwise it's going to lead. I'm sure if you post this in the reloading section on this forum you will get better answers.
 
I really don`t know what to tell you, being I have both & I love both of em................
 
The 6.5 x 55 round probably has an edge over the .303 for target shooting and hunting middle size (under 500 lb.). Light recoil, flat-shooting, excellent power for deer-size game, somewhat quieter than the .30 calibers. Swedish Mausers tend to have barrels in better shape that those of other mil-surp.s. and has a good trigger pull. I prefer the 23" barrell short Swede over the 29" version.
This seems like the kind of choice where whatever you decide, you can't lose.
 
As a battle rifle, the Enfield. As a precision rifle, the Swede. The Enfield has the better sights and holds 10 rounds of a more powerful cartridge than the Swede. However, even with the better sights, the Swede is probably more accurate. The 6.5SE will also perform better (trajectory-wise) at mid-long ranges. The Swede is lighter on recoil. As for reloading, I know several who reload 6.5SE, but none who reload .303. This doesn't necessarily tell us anything, but that's what I see.
 
^^^^ Thearmedtherapist put well.

Loading for 6.5x55 is as easy as can be. Nothing at all tricky about. Mine has been very good with ppv 139 gr sp Hornady 140 gr sp and Hornady 160 gr RN. I will start loading some Berger 140 gr VLD soon. If you are loading cast for 200 - 300 I suggest a nice long ogive semi spitzer in the 120 - 130 range loaded long, only a few tenths " off the lands. I like to only neck size. With cast, you will want to slightly expand the case mouth before seating but I would urge a very slight expansion. If you can get a decent taper crimp with your bullet seater, that's great but if not, I find the Lee Factory Crimp Die excellent. You will have your favorite powders but with cast, I would be looking at the IMR4350 area and not much faster. I would want to stay around 2500 with cast and you will need linotype hard lead at like BNH 24 and higher.

I don't load 303 but I do load the contemporaneous Krag 30-40, another rimmed cartridge not that far bbehind the 303. Again for cast, slower powders and lower velocity loads. Lots of good cast data in Lyman.
 
I like both and they can shoot well with lead if you paper patch the things so you can shoot to issue ammo speeds. But the sweed is better due to more quality built into the gun.
 
Loading lead bullets is not as hard as it seems but it is different from loading jacketed stuff. Enough different that there are several forum devoted to shooting nothing but lead. They have loaded bare lead to some very impressive velocities with no leading and good accuracy. It takes time, effort and patience to develop asuch a load for a rifle. Cast bullets are very much "graduate level" reloading.

As for your dies, the 303 is normally cut (in SMLEs) with a very generous chamber. If you are full length sizing the brass, you are overworking it and shrtening it's useful life. Again, refer to the cast bullet sites for a wealth of information.

Most important, if you are going to cast for either rifle, make sure your mold casts a large enough bullet so you can size it to fit your rifle. More than a few molds are casting undersized bullets.
 
i shoot my swede 63,s and they sure are fun. target was shot at 100yds with PMC factory ammo with minor sight changes as i shot. there was a light varible wind left to right. the last three shots are a little high,but i stopped shooting because the wind started kicking up a bit. eastbank.
 

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Long range 6,5

This is my CG 63 with a system dating back to 1906, the barrel i new condition. My dad got it from a surplus dealer. I put it in a tumbhole stock wich I bedded with composite. She is a long range killer! Fox, deer an so on will drop in their tracks up to 400 meters. I also have a mauser M98 in 9,3x62, big cartridge mainly use it for wild bore and bear.
 

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