My Glock 23 has the full Glockworx trigger setup. Every glocker thats tried my setup has loved it. 100% reliable as long as you use the stock recoil spring and replace the trigger spring every 1000 rounds.
It has very little take up and a stiff, crisp break. Not too light, not too stiff. But you can't play games with my setup. Trigger control is key. If you want to try this setup below, I'd recommend using the stock trigger spring till you get used to it.
I had to mod the trigger a little to get everything perfect. The trigger safety was a bit too aggressive and wouldn't allow the trigger to fall if my finger was too high on the Fulcrum trigger. I needed to file the top rear edge of the safety a little rounder. Just a little at a time until it had function similar to the stock trigger. Not rocket science at all.
You can use Glockworx polished striker and a comp striker spring and have perfect reliability. This setup hits a hair harder than stock actually. You can test with the pen in the barrel trick.
My Glock has over 2000 rounds through it since I modded it. Zero failures. Some of the Glocks components are extremely high quality, barrel, slide, frame, but some of its components are cheap and easy to exceed in quality and feel. Like the trigger bar, fp safety, and connector.
my setup:
Glock 23, 180gn Federal fmj or 180gn Rem Goldensaber
Glockworx/Zevtec Fulcrum Trigger bar (stock settings)
Glockworx Liteweight striker (needed if you choose to use the comp striker spring)
GW Comp spring kit
GW Ti firing pin safety (must have, so smooth)
GW 3.0 race connector ( way better than a Lonewolf 3.5 connector, stiffer than lone wolf, but noe take up, less creep, crisper and safer.)
Lonewolf SS guide rod (with stock recoil spring, don't use crappy afftermarket recoil springs, use stock glock only)
XS big dot sights
2 Glock 22 mags for reloads
Stock spring cups, the maritime cups seem flimsy and interupt my slide detail strips, they often let the fp spring go "sproing".