GP 100 Cylinder dragging on frame ?

[Mr. B]

I got a new GP 100 4" fixed sight blue revolver last week but didn't get to look at it much till today. I noticed that when opening the cylinder that the back side (hammer side) of the cylinder slightly drags on the frame enough so that it has wore a wear line at the place it contacts. I have an older 6" that has a very slight contact but none of my stainless GPs contact (but they do come close). Is this a problem? arrow on pic shows where it is dragging.

Thanks,
Mr. B

 

[Old Fuff]

Your picture is too dark to tell much, but anyway - load the chambers with empty cases and close the cylinder. Then pull the hammer back just far enough to drop the cylinder latch down to where it releases the cylinder. Next, rotate the cylinder with your fingers and see if it sticks or binds while being rotated. If it doesn't you're probably O.K.

 

[Mr. B]

Thanks for the response Old Fluff
I think I'm not being clear in that the cylinder is dragging while opening the cylinder about 3/4 of the way to fully opened and not while the cylinder is closed. Only the outside rear of the cylinder is rolling over the frame.

Mr. B

I'll try and trake a better picture.

 

[Mr. B]

Here is a pic of it at the point the cylinder is touching the frame.

 

[Old Fuff]

Your picture is too dark to tell much, but anyway - load the chambers with empty cases and close the cylinder. Then pull the hammer back just far enough to drop the cylinder latch down to where it releases the cylinder. Then rotate the cylinder with your fingers and see if it sticks or binds while being rotated. If it doesn't you're probably O.K.

So far as the picture is concerned, the trick is to go outside into the sunlight ...

If the cylinder is LIGHTLY touching when you open it there probably isn't an issue, but if it binds or hangs up you should probably return the gun to Ruger and have it checked over and fixed as necessary. The nice thing about that is they'll go over the revolver with a fine-toothed comb and fix EVERYTHING they find wrong. They may also have to remove a little bit of metal, and if this is the case they'll reblue the whole gun at no expense to you.

But anyway, to answer your original question: no, the cylinder shouldn't hit the frame when it’s swung out.

 

[BluesBear]

I may be mistaken but...

It appears that the rear edge cylinder is in contact with the bottom corner of the frame window.

Is it possible that when the cylinder is opened it is moving rearward enough to make contact?

Mr B can you push the cylinder forward to a point where it doesn't touch the frame?

 

[Mr. B]

"It appears that the rear edge cylinder is in contact with the bottom corner of the frame window"

Exactly correct. Just the rear edge of the cylinder is in contact. In fact there is a line wore thru the blueing on the frame where it is in contact.

"Mr B can you push the cylinder forward to a point where it doesn't touch the frame?"

No, only very slight back and forth movement in the cylinder but it doesn't make a difference.

Mr. B

 

[Old Fuff]

Given your description, I think Ruger's Customer Service Department should take care of it. Correction won't be difficult, but may require refinishing.

 

[LHB1]

Mr. B,
Your cylinder crane arm may be bent or misaligned causing the cylinder to bind against frame when opening/closing cylinder but not when fully closed and rotating.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB

 

[BluesBear]

Without being able to handle the gun and based on the available information I believe LHB1 is correct. It sounds like a misalignment problem.

As Fuff reccommended, contact Ruger their customer service department is superb. They will make it right.

 

[Mr. B]

I called Ruger and I'm going to be send it back to the factory.
Thanks for the help everyone.

Mr. B