Hello all, I am for the most part brand new to the forum as I have only been using it to steal all of your ideas for research instead of contributing and haven't posted. But here we go.
On my last shooting session I came to find that my da trigger pull began to get worse and worse until the end of the day. When I go to the range I typically bring about 300 of each 38 and 357 to shoot. So I attributed it mostly to needing to be cleaned (other that just running the bore snake through the cylinder and bore like at the range.) I came home and disassembled the revolver as always for a thorough cleaning. What I found was something totally new for this particular revolver. While the pawl rotated the cylinder wether from da trigger pull or pulling the hammer back for sa shots, the cylinder came forward enough to rub against the aft end of the barrel. Meaning that the cylinder/barrel gap was less than acceptable to say the least. So I started researching how I was going to resolve this issue. Not much came up as rugers don't typically have these problems apparently. But I eventually came up with some material from a search on brownells website for there cylinder disassembly tool. Under the tech tips tab.So I ordered this tool which is simply just a spanner type flathead, and some endshake bearings(shims) which were .002 of an inch. After checking the endshake which was .005 of an inch(which of course required reassembly) I found that I only needed to use one of the shims. Disassembled down far enough to install the shim and then reassembled. Now my barrel cylinder gap is at .003. I have virtually no endshake. DA trigger pull is smooth as can be once again, and now all i have to do is take a stone and remove the scrape marks on the aft end of the barrel.
This task was very easy and I can tell you that most people should be able to do it w/out the help of an expensive gunsmith that might not know what he's doing.
ps. the cylinder ejector retaining screw has left hand threads
Thanks again for everybodys great info on the site, Bill
On my last shooting session I came to find that my da trigger pull began to get worse and worse until the end of the day. When I go to the range I typically bring about 300 of each 38 and 357 to shoot. So I attributed it mostly to needing to be cleaned (other that just running the bore snake through the cylinder and bore like at the range.) I came home and disassembled the revolver as always for a thorough cleaning. What I found was something totally new for this particular revolver. While the pawl rotated the cylinder wether from da trigger pull or pulling the hammer back for sa shots, the cylinder came forward enough to rub against the aft end of the barrel. Meaning that the cylinder/barrel gap was less than acceptable to say the least. So I started researching how I was going to resolve this issue. Not much came up as rugers don't typically have these problems apparently. But I eventually came up with some material from a search on brownells website for there cylinder disassembly tool. Under the tech tips tab.So I ordered this tool which is simply just a spanner type flathead, and some endshake bearings(shims) which were .002 of an inch. After checking the endshake which was .005 of an inch(which of course required reassembly) I found that I only needed to use one of the shims. Disassembled down far enough to install the shim and then reassembled. Now my barrel cylinder gap is at .003. I have virtually no endshake. DA trigger pull is smooth as can be once again, and now all i have to do is take a stone and remove the scrape marks on the aft end of the barrel.
This task was very easy and I can tell you that most people should be able to do it w/out the help of an expensive gunsmith that might not know what he's doing.
ps. the cylinder ejector retaining screw has left hand threads
Thanks again for everybodys great info on the site, Bill
