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Hello, all
I decided to build a percussion rifle kit, recently, and picked up Lyman's Great Plains. Everything looks pretty solid, but The wood to metal fit isn't particularly flush which is kind of a concern for me. If the inletting were a little too small, it'd be a simple matter of taking off some wood. I worry that Lyman might have taken off too much wood, around the lock in particular. Either that, or I'm just nuts. Thought I might ask for your opinions; there's a link to a couple pictures below. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/4UMqO
 
I don't think there is a fix for that, I'd explore the possibility of returning the whole kit or maybe just the wood.
 
It looks like the butt could be fixed, by removing wood to bring butt plate forward, however in my limited experience building kits, I would also expect the inletting for the lock to be equal to smaller than the lock, not bigger.
 
The Traditions kit I built years ago had just the opposite problem: too much wood with not enough inletting. I agree with the others here; see if you get another kit or at least get the stock replaced.
 
Hello, all
I decided to build a percussion rifle kit, recently, and picked up Lyman's Great Plains. Everything looks pretty solid, but The wood to metal fit isn't particularly flush which is kind of a concern for me. If the inletting were a little too small, it'd be a simple matter of taking off some wood. I worry that Lyman might have taken off too much wood, around the lock in particular. Either that, or I'm just nuts. Thought I might ask for your opinions; there's a link to a couple pictures below. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/4UMqO
Did you decide to return the stock? If you did, how was customer service?
 
The buttplate is remedied by removing metal from the stock where the crescent comes into contact with. This allows the heel (top of the buttplate) to move forward to contact the stock.

Regarding the lock, the important thing is does hammer align with the nipple? That gap can be fixed with a wood shaving expoxied into place.

Remember, this is a kit. You're supposed to work on it.

You might want to add a steel cap box. That would enhance its appearance.
 
The buttplate is remedied by removing metal from the stock where the crescent comes into contact with. This allows the heel (top of the buttplate) to move forward to contact the stock.

You'd wind up with a mighty thin butt plate.

Remember, this is a kit. You're supposed to work on it.

Sure then one would be better off with just a blank piece of wood.
 
It's a kit; you need to finish the manufacturing process! Radius the edges of the lock to fit the wood.Or you could cut the treads off on the lock screws to make it fit. For the buttplate, shave the wood down a bit under the buttplate until there is no gap. It's not rocket science, just basic gunsmithing.
 
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Actually you're supposed to remove the wood to fit the lock.

Yesterday I was exhausted, hence my mistake.
 
The buttplate is remedied by removing metal from the stock where the crescent comes into contact with. This allows the heel (top of the buttplate) to move forward to contact the stock.

Regarding the lock, the important thing is does hammer align with the nipple? That gap can be fixed with a wood shaving expoxied into place.

Remember, this is a kit. You're supposed to work on it.

You might want to add a steel cap box. That would enhance its appearance.
The lock was inletted too much. To me that is a factory defect. It should require hand fitting. Epoxy and wood filler should be reserved for personal mistakes. I can see sweating dents. The buttplate is normal.
 
I went ahead and contacted Lyman. Highlighted the excessive inletting with some chalk so they could see the gap clearly, and they had me send it back. I will post updates as warranted. Thanks for your feedback! I will be happy to get my hands on a kit I can finish to a certain standard.
 
Extremely cool.

They can make a mighty fine Hawkens gun for sure!

Don't forget to join THR Caplock Rifle Club when it's done! :)
 
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