Gun cleaners that soak into carbon (M Pro 7, Slip 725, Elite etc.)

[labnoti]

Slip 2000 725, M Pro 7, Breakthrough, Hoppes Elite etc...

I understand some claim to be water-based and others are not water-based but they're not oil-based either and they act like water in that they soak into carbon fouling rather than sit on top of it like oily cleaners (Breakfree or Ballistol).

I understand these cleaners are not CLP's and they remove fouling but do not lubricate or protect. Also, they remove lubricants and protective oils.

I'm wary of using water-based cleaners on my revolvers because I've found that even a light spray on the outside of the revolver can make a milky emulsion inside things. But what about the non-water based cleaners like M Pro 7? Can I use that on an assembled revolver or cylinder assembly? Or am I better off stripping it so the cleaner can be removed and it can be lubricated before assembling?

 

[Mark1964]

I believe both MPro7 Gun Cleaner and Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner are water based.

 

[labnoti]

MPro7 denied it being water-based, at least at one point. This thread indicates a link they had that claimed otherwise: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/archive/index.php/t-1089771.html

...but the link mentioned in that thread is no longer working. If I pull up the ingredients of the Gun Cleaner from MPro7's website, it does list water as the first ingredient: http://jn5zt4b4wys3b729t2n8cw6k.wpe...wp-content/uploads/2019/12/MPro7-070-1040.pdf

Since I made the OP in November, I started using MPro7. I found it is much more effective at removing carbon fouling than Breakfree CLP, Ballistol, or Hoppes #9. It does strip all lubrication and oil-film surface protection and so it must be followed by a lubricant or protectant if the part requires it. Because of this, I've come to favor it to clean bores, but not other parts unless I'm completely stripping it and re-lubricating it. For example, I will keep the MPro7 out of my revolver's lockwork unless I'm going to take the sideplate off and relubricate it. I will use it carefully (on patches) in the chambers, avoiding getting it in the yoke and ejector assembly that is lubricated. I also avoid contact with any wood. It is much more effective than CLP, Ballistol, or #9 on the carbon fouling around the barrel face and forcing cone. It is not very effective on copper fouling in the bore.

 

[Kevin Rohrer]

Never heard of MPro7. How does it work against lead and copper?

 

[Mark1964]

Never heard of MPro7. How does it work against lead and copper?

I honestly haven't been impressed with it as a bore solvent.
Dunno, maybe my perception is different than the OPs.
Personally, I go with any oil-based solvent for bores. I don't find lead, copper and plastic all that tough to get out with a solvent application followed by a short soak -- maybe 10 minutes -- and some brushing. Of late, I've been using Kroil.
If I need to chase some copper, I go to the Pro Shot Coppper Solvent IV.

 

[Laphroaig]

I've been starting my cleaning regimen with Slip 2000 Carbon Killer. Its water based, and dissolves carbon very well. Two cycles of wet patch followed by a bronze brushing, let soak for 10 minutes, a couple dry patches.

It does wonders on AR15 bolts too.