Hatfield .45 flinter question

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Hello fellas. I purchased my first flintlock today, a 45 cal. Hatfield rifle. I am hoping that some of you can shed some light on how I can find out when it was made and by whom, i.e. Ted Hatfield or a later company.
The barrel is 39" long and it has Hatfield and 45 cal. stamped on the top flat. Hatfield and Warranted is stamped on the lock.
I appreciate any help you can provide.


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Sure looks like a Hatfield Squirrel Rifle.
Hatfield Rifle Co, Missouri. Introduced 1983. Ted Hatfield in charge.
In 1997 Gun Digest, not 1998. Agrees with Hatfield shotguns made til 1996.
 
Thanks Jim, I was hoping it was made by Ted Hatfield's company. Now I just have to figure out a ball and patch size to start with and I'll be in business. I'm going to have to figure out the magic behind slugging a barrel with a breech plug and order me some cerrosafe for that chore. --Steve
 
Sounds like good advice to me MEH and there's no arguing with the results you show in your link. I'm headed out the door now for the fabric store to get an assortment of patch material to try. Thanks for your reply. --Steve
 
A friend found real old fashioned striped pillow ticking to be the best patch. I don't know what diameter ball he uses, but it is a .50 and would not apply directly to your .45.
 
Well I just got back from town with some blue & white stripe ticking, muslin, 440 balls & 451 balls. In a couple of hours I'm going to make a little longer trip and pick up some 4fg & some 3fg powder (I've got plenty of 2fg) and I'll be ready to do some load testing. I'll let you guys know what I find out.
 
Other suggestions (you may already have/be aware):

- Get/use an unbreakable nylon/fiberglass range-rod (cut off at length/with wooden-ball end for your hand)
- Get/use a short starter
- Swab the bore with a just-damp (not wet) spit-patch between shots
- I suggest spit-patch lube to start (forget bore-butter)
- Get/Use real flints https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/141/1/FLINT-ENG-5-PACK-12
- Get/use a very expensive knapping tool https://i.postimg.cc/mgfzrCDd/Flint-Knapping-Kit.jpg
- Fill the pan only to the bottom of the touch hole. The bottom.


- and the usual soapy water/dry/protect with real CLP (not borebutter)
 
I had one and found it had a very tight bore, that was not to easy to load with a dirty bore. solved the problem by wiping between shots. they were-are very well made rifles. my two flint locks are a .50 1x48 pedersoli blue ridge and a .50 1x28 rmc .
 

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If you need a ball starter you are loading too tight a ball patch combination. Your ball and patch should run down the bore easily. Especially for hunting, think about your second shot and how long you want to take getting it ready.

Kevin
 
For accurate patched-ball in a rifled barrel, you will need a ball starter, and you will have a smoothly tight fit that requires the ramrod go down in 8-10" stages.
 
It sticks in my head that frontiersmen would have a tight ball and patch for careful loading a clean barrel but have along an easier loading combination for a hasty reload. Not up to the musket's "fifteen rounds in three and three quarter minutes" but a darn sight faster than the modern hobbyist.
 
For accurate patched-ball in a rifled barrel, you will need a ball starter, and you will have a smoothly tight fit that requires the ramrod go down in 8-10" stages.

While this makes perfect sense for someone who want to be competitive, for field use it is very cumbersome.

Folks try to complicate the hobbies rather than enjoy them.

Kevin
 
Thanks for all the replies and the link MEH. I don't hunt anymore - can't walk that far, so my shooting will be club shoots and maybe Friendship this fall (which is itself more walking than I can probably do). I have inspected the rifle closely and am pleased to say the bore is smooth as a baby's butt, except for the grooves of course. However I have found a bit of a problem (see the pictures). The flashole liner is sitting proud of the lock plate and I have to use the play in the striker hinge to make shure it sits down flush. I put a screwdriver on it and it isn't loose? I haven't taken the lock off yet, but it seems to me I need to remove the liner and file it down some (assuming I can get it flush without losing the screwdriver slot completely) or I need a new liner.

As if that weren't enough I hadn't noticed until I looke at the pictures, but the liner doesn't seem to line up with the middle of the pan very well. I haven't shot it yet so I don't know if that is a problem?? It does throw a bunch of sparks. Again, thanks for your help.

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I filed the liner flush, hacksawed the slot a bit deeper and now it is working fine. :rofl: FYI, I checked the thread size on the liner and it is 8mm x 1.25.
 
I had one of those rifles pass through my hands many years ago. Those rifles were decent facsimiles of originals. There was a later Hatfield this was no where near the rifle yours is.

It is not unknown for some people to head to Wally World with mics in hand for patching material. The pillow ticking there runs 015. You can find at least two sizes thicker. Many folks use a steel range rod with nylon or brass muzzle protector. Also, Balistsol is used to make up patch lube. Also get some decent quality jags, bullet pullers and patch pullers. We never needs these attachments. This stuff is used to help people who had "dry balled" without this equipment:)

If you go with the pillow ticking it's necessary to get a patch knife and ball starter. I use one of the low end French folding knife sold is camping stores. The hold a good edge and look right for a muzzle loading rifle. Also, Balistsol is used to make up patch lube. The ratio is half water half Balistsol. You will find that Bore Butter has some uses but not preventing rust. Do not trust the stuff. Use a muzzle protector rods and, if steel, on one your bullet starter.

I go with the give 440-445 diameter ball a try. That rifle was made in an era where bore diameters were becoming uniform.
 
Thanks Mowgli T. Sunday I started a wish list at TOW with most of what you mentioned. I actually had the items in my cart and also some items for my High Wall 40-65 Winchester. The tally was a bit much for now and I have a BPCR shoot coming up so I put the Hatfield gear in the wish list. As most of us do, I have accumulated enough bp odds and ins over the years that I will be able to load and test fire the Hatfield in the next couple of days.

As regards the patch knife I have made a few items to go with my percussion rifles and one of them was a patch knife. I replaced the handle on a straight razor with some deer horn and put a ball starter on the end. Figured I might as well start the ball and patch and cut it all at once.;) I am still experimenting with the edge a bit, trying to come to a happy medium between a wire razor edge that tends to turn after a while and one that stays 'sharp enough' longer. I do have a neat little neck knife for backup that works every time...just too small for the short starter to be put on it. When I have used the neck knife I use the other ball starter in the picture. Works fine, but more of a juggling act.

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