Heat on your HANDS: AR15 Free float vs. Non

[mf-dif]

In the midst of building my upper so I'm contemplating should I go free or non. I understand some of the benefits of free float...increased accuracy, barrel cooling, shoot longer with tighter groups. But what about how hot the fore end actually gets? I do 90% of my shooting standing off-hand no support (no sling). I do pause between shots, but for 5-10 seconds...not enough to let a barrel cool during cycles. I also like my rifle to be as light as possible. I do not attach any accessories to it, it stays bare. This build will not be for home defense. I have used a metal quad rail (non-floated) AR before and it is unbearable after 40-60rds slow shooting. Adding covers just makes it heavier. The rail just absorbs all the heat that I cannot comfortably grip it with a bare hand. I could glove up, but I'd rather handle the controls naked.

Some reviews I read said free float rails keep things "cool". They never specified the barrel or the actual fore end. The heat on the hand rail is kinda a big deal to me. Thoughts on this? Is there a combo that has a free float hand guard that stays cool to the touch? I think I know the answer to this question...which is no can't have the best of both worlds...but maybe I'm wrong?

 

[sawdeanz]

If you are going for light weight and simplicity why not a classic polymer handguard or magpul type thing. If it must be free float, then I don't know off the top of my head but I feel like I've seen some carbon fiber type forends.

 

[Inebriated]

Free float or not doesn't matter as much as the design.

My KMR, which is very close to the barrel but with a lot of ventilation, does heat up after a few mags of various drills, but also cools off quick. A lightweight or ELW barrel would cool even faster than the government profile barrel I have underneath. I do prefer to use gloves if I'll be doing a lot of shooting with it. But, I have also used a number of free float quad rails that I couldn't get hot enough to bother me no matter how hard I tried. Polymer drop-in handguards hold their heat much longer, even if they don't get quite as hot.

I'm not convinced that 40-60 rounds spread over 5-10 minutes would get anything hot enough to matter one bit.

 

[mooner]

Carbon Fiber. Light, free float, and cool to the touch.

And no, despite my suggestion, I don't think you would get aluminum that hot without doing numerous mag-dumps.

 

[silicosys4]

I have a Hogue free float tube on one of mine.
I've never noticed it getting even warm to the touch after a mag.

 

[NWcityguy2]

There are no accuracy benefits to a free floated barrel when not using a support. It just isn't that accurate of a shooting platform. At that point the rail/tube is only offering more grip space and places to attach equipment.

On the subject of heat, the better way to go (if you haven't bought the barrel yet) is to get a medium profile barrel. Having a bunch more mass under the handguards is the best way to keep a barrel from getting too hot, too quick. Other than that, there is no magic bullet on dealing with heat. It has to go somewhere. Either it radiates it away quickly or it gets trapped and sticks around longer. Modern rails do basically nothing to keep the heat in and you'll commonly see people wearing gloves when shooting them as a result. Pouring water on a hot barrel is another way to deal with heat, and is my preferred method.

I recommend saving some money and going with a non-free float setup.

 

[Dr.Rob]

My aluminum free float doesn't 'heat up' that I have noticed and I run my AR hard in tactical rifle matches.

Mine is not vented. Got it from Model One with a 16 inch fluted varmint barrel.

http://www.model1sales.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=78

 

[Robert]

I have never noticed my float tube get too hot to handle, even after a couple 45 round mags. I run a Troy Alpha rail that I got before they became evil...

 

[henschman]

I have a MI-SS G2. It gets hotter being out in the sun than anything.

 

[Tirod]

What sights are you going to use?

Free floats imply using a red dot - and mounting a BUIS front sight just means it sits on the free float getting shoved around separately from the barrel, which increases inaccuracy.

Running some kind of gas block sight attached to the barrel is what separates the hand stress from affecting the sight plane.

Aside from that, free floats don't really do that much to help - the barrel won't shoot any better than it's natural ability. If it's a 2MOA barrel or .5, that's as good as it gets. Free floats dont' maket barrels better, they just decrease the inaccuracy caused by holding it.

A lot of folks buy some expensive free floats and then negate most of what they are for.

If it's a HD gun then other considerations are needed - floats made from aluminum are usually extruded and often ring when mounted. I installed an Apex Gatorgrip on my 6.8 deer rifle and it's noticeably louder working thru underbrush hunting deer. The same thing will happen at home - brushing it against objects will cause it to make a distinctive noise.

On the AR pistol I'm finishing I used B5 polymer drop ins with a clamp on front sight gas block. They are significantly quieter and have liners to cut down on heat.

The criteria for heat rejection on a range isn't the reality of what will happen in home defense, tho. For the most part shooting rapidly on the line is just that, a range exercise. It is much less likely that an extended firefight requiring mag changes will happen inside your home. Most who have encountered that report they weren't changing mags in their auto pistols - which only hold a third to two thirds the rounds.

The heat issue is purely a range practice one - and it goes that if it's in your focus, the gun isn't really that oriented to home defense. Addressing it as a primary item means your practice has higher priority. It IS important, but it does go to show that a purpose built gun does need to be flexible in how it's put together. If it's hard to practice with then it creates a need to make a special purpose practice firearm to handle the heat.

Here's the solution - practice for shot placement, not quantity down range. If it's about HD then getting quick shots off that won't hit the wrong target is important. This is where a laser can help and does clean up your hit ratio more quickly.

It's an interesting path in this rose garden, things lead right back to where you started. Put the handguards you like on it and go shoot it, then you'll know what might work - or not. It's really hard for us to decide for you and the sale forums are full of stuff that seemed perfect but just didn't quite cut it for one reason or another.

 

[JimKirk]

My Troy VTAC FF does not get hot except from the Sun ...

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

From a comfort perspective, insulating your hands from the heat (polymer & heat shields and/or gloves) almost always works better than trying to cool faster.

Don't discount the sun either - here in Texas (summer), you can walk down to hang targets and walk back and the rifle will be too hot to hold comfortably before you've fired a shot. Light colors (sand, FDE) make a noticeable difference in that regard and of course, black plastic isn't as bad as black metal.