Help? H&R 999 Sportsman timing

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Mauser lover

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Greetings all, and thank you for responding to my plea by at least clicking on this thread!

I have an old H&R 999 Sportsman that is timing *just* short. The hammer will drop just barely before the bolt drops (or rises?) into the recess in the cylinder.

It is one of the older models, and from what I can tell, spare hands are nonexistent. Yes, I tried to make a new one out of a newer style hand. Close, but no proverbial cigar.

Okay, my new option... make a new one out of tool steel. Ouch, this looks like a pain!

Okay, another option... Can I stretch the hand that I have that is slightly off? Now, I am not quite sure if this design times based upon the length of the hand, or if it times on the width. How do I tell? I don't think peening and stretching will help if it is based on width, but hopefully someone will know for sure what is going on.

Anyone done this before on any similar revolvers? Here is a schematic for the new model, it is pretty close to the same design, but the individual part is different.

I think there is an H&R expert out there somewhere too, so if you know the gun particularly well, you might be able to tell me what other models of hands will fit.
 
I don't know the answer to your questions, but some careful observation and measurements may reveal some info. Look closely at how the hand engages the ratchet as it moves through rotation and lockup process. Measure the width of the hand and the hand window consider how that affects the function. Some folks heat and swage an offset in the hand at the tip to compensate for too much play/narrow hand. Some bent (like a bow) the hand in the middle to take out the play. These are old repair techniques (not specific to any brand) developed before replacement parts were easily obtained and real smithing was required.
 
Yeah, their diagram is for a newer model with a different frame and a transfer bar hammer safety. Mine has a bird's head frame, no transfer bar (rebounding hammer instead), and a different style of hand.

I meant to attach a link to that diagram in my original post. Oops.
 
Doggone it! I lost my trigger return spring! Does anyone know the size (Length and diameter) of the return spring? I just figured I might as well get some more modern spring stock rather than getting an old one from Numrich. Probably even be cheaper too...

Anyone know exactly how it fits? I'll probably be able to figure it out, but if someone already knows it might save me a couple of reassembly tries.

Thanks!
 
Okay, if anyone is still reading this thread...

I set a limit of disassembling this thing once per day so I don't lose patience and throw it against a wall. So, I pulled the hand out and tapped on it. We'll see how that goes, and how many days it takes! I only tapped on it thirty times very lightly, probably didn't do anything, but we'll see! All my pins that go through the frame are short on bluing anyway, so I'm not worried about them. The holes might get just a little bit misshapen though...

For the spring... believe it or not, a spring I stole from a ballpoint pen (you know, the clicky one that you constantly fiddle with in church until the preacher glares at you) fits absolutely perfectly. It is too weak, but it is the proper diameter. Length... I'm not so sure about. I figured out where it goes too, so if someone wants to chime in on that... too late!

I'll try to keep ya'll updated if you care to listen.
 
I'm late to the show, but I hope you get it fixed.

I've thought about doing a trigger job to my 1981 made 999, but I really am leary of knocking all those pins out and getting them back in while holding everything together.
 
The 1930s manufacture ones aren't bad! I thought it would be much worse. All you need are a couple of 3/32 slave pins that are the right length that you can push out with the right ones. (that is the size for mine. Yours might be different.

I think it isn't "really" a double action, it seems like this would qualify for the "trigger cocking" system, like the Star "double action" black powder revolver. I've never had one apart, but it seems like these would be the same. All the hammer seems to do is cock the hammer, and that little sear lever behind the "trigger" is actually the trigger. At least as far as I can tell/reason our in my brain.

As far as "trigger job", my single action trigger is fine. DA is stiff, but I figure it helps me practice good trigger discipline. My carry gun is DA, so it's good practice! (at least that is my reasoning)
 
I broke my own rule... I took it apart three times today! I can't tell if I am getting any closer at all... Humph...

We'll see if my pins still hold it together when I am finished.
 
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