Help me understand why I suck with this Glock 22

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If your POA was the center of target, now you are pushing shots to the right.

Do you think the skate tape on your Glock grip could be part of the problem (I am assuming the Gen3 Glock 17 is factory without anything on the grip)?
 
Shot a 10 round offhand group from 10 yards with new Gen3 G17. Plastic sights. Can’t shoot this thing either. But...... o_O

You’re making me feel better about how I shoot all of my Glocks. Sorry I’m not helping your problem but I’ve shot 5 different Glocks and I get similar groups and it’s always the trigger because the grips vary to the extreme. G43x up to a G21.

I’m just a newbie but I’m sure it’s all trigger for me.
 
If your POA was the center of target, now you are pushing shots to the right.

Do you think the skate tape on your Glock grip could be part of the problem (I am assuming the Gen3 Glock 17 is factory without anything on the grip)?
Maybe... the G17 was stock/slick without any tape. I think maybe it was the sights as well though. The OEM sights have zero space to the sides of the front sight. Or I just suck but in a different direction :D
 
Yeah, I took my G22 out yesterday and then again today. It's harder too shoot well than my DA/SA Sigs and DA/SA revolvers (in DA of course).

I only shot one fresh target at 25 yards today. 25 yards being my standard accuracy testing distance. I don't like to test for accuracy too close because I tend to let myself get sloppy closer up, which is not productive.

But that 10 shot off-hand group came out to about 6" to 6.5" including flyers. Not exactly great, but it could be worse. That'd be close to 2.5" at 10 yards.

Don't feel too bad, they're not designed to be target pistols. Look at it this way: it'll give you something to work on. ;)
 
I am not saying this has anything to do with your accuracy but why are you crimping your rounds?
Semi auto pistol’s head space on the front of the case. It’s the opposite of a revolver. Your seating die if set up correctly will remove the flare from the case and leave it flat. You don’t want any crimp.
 
My G17 with plastic sights fired off my knees while sitting and leaning against my truck @12 yds. The black square is 1 inch. Whatever you are shooting it's possible your G17 doesn't like it.

target G17a.JPG

Lower right is American Eagle 124 FMJ.

M
 
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Shot a 10 round offhand group from 10 yards with new Gen3 G17 ... Can’t shoot this thing either. But...... o_O
That's because you loaded RMR 115 gr FMJ with 4.5 gr of W231 @ 1.116" OAL, just above start charge. ;):D


Seriously for me, 4.5 gr of W231/HP-38 starts to reliably cycle the slides of my Glocks @ 1.130" OAL and accuracy improved at 4.6 gr to 4.8 gr.

One of my reference 9mm loads is 115 gr FMJ/plated RN with 4.8 gr W231/HP-38 @ 1.130".

Here's Speer load data for 115 gr and W231 - https://www.speer-ammo.com/download...m_caliber_355-366_dia/9mm_Luger__115_rev1.pdf
  • 115 gr TMJ RN W231 COL 1.135" Start 4.4 gr (1026 fps) - Max 4.9 gr (1133 fps)
I ended up using shorter 1.130" after testing 1.150" down to 1.130" and shorter OAL increased accuracy and produced smaller groups. So for 1.130" OAL, I reduced max charge down to 4.8 gr.

If using shorter OAL like for my Promo load that uses 1.110"-1.115", I would reduce down to 4.7 gr of W231/HP-38. (And for faster powders with .5 gr start/max range, .2 gr is significant)

I would definitely test 4.5 gr load with 4.6 and 4.7 gr loads to see if accuracy improves. (May possibly shrink your group size by 30-40%)
 
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That's because you loaded RMR 115 gr FMJ with 4.5 gr of W231 @ 1.116" OAL, just above start charge.)
Good eye but that was a previous target in the background.

Ammo for this was 124 powerbond plated RN over 5.6 Longshot at 1.135”. It was the most accurate of the loads I tried for the conversion barrel.

it is certainly possible that the OEM G17 barrel doesn’t like it but my other pistols do. And the group looks to me like I’m doing something to push shots right, as you say
 
Good eye but that was a previous target in the background.

Ammo for this was 124 powerbond plated RN over 5.6 Longshot at 1.135”. It was the most accurate of the loads I tried for the conversion barrel.
What I have seen accuracy wise with full sized pistols over the years is with decent ammunition, they all produced 1" groups at 7 yards and 2" groups at 10-15 yards. With more accurate ammunition, they produced 1.5" groups at 15 yards.

With glaucoma and touch of cataract in my aging eyes, I now need optical assistance for accuracy shooting - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...endence-from-work.853305/page-3#post-11211204

Gen3 Glock 22 with KKM 40-9 conversion barrel shot off Caldwell pistol rest.

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But for 25 yard testing, rail scope mount started drifting shots and required up to max adjustments. Here's first 5 shots (Red circle) then shots became erratic attributed to mount issue.

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While aim point was the blue tape and shots may seem to drift to left but I was having trouble with this rail scope mount that kept drifting (First shot on tape) so I plan to repeat the testing with a different set up.

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are you calling all those shots "right"? or are you calling those "center" and they are just going to the right?

murf
 
you may be using too much trigger finger. you can experiment with trigger finger placement.

luck,

murf
 
Why continually beat your head against the wall with this gun? You have given it a fair shake, if it were me I would ditch and move on to something else.
 
you may be using too much trigger finger. you can experiment with trigger finger placement.

luck,

murf
Yeah I’ve been dry firing a lot SHO, WHO, and both hands and trying to get the least amount of movement. Using the factory minus connector. Breaks around 5.5lbs measured in the center of the trigger or about 4 at the tip.

Putting a little more finger , like closer to the first joint or on the joint, seems to be the best for me. To go any deeper I have to rotate my grip which I assume will be counterproductive. I already shoot weird since I’m right handed but left eye dominant.
With my left hand, more finger makes it worse.
 
I had trouble with a few things with my Glocks, one being I’m a relatively new shooter and all my guns are bone stock. Not even a 25 cent polish.

I’m still inconsistent but the one thing that was YUGE for me was pulling the trigger all the way back to the wall. Steady “roll” through the break all the way to the stop. And I’m not going He Man trying to control recoil. Just a good firm grip.

I regularly get 5 or 6 bullets through one hole. Before and after those 5 to 6 are pretty scattered though. Either way it tells me I’m on to something and getting close to being pretty good, vs the terrible I was anyway.
 
It’s almost like your finger needs to be stiff as you pull through. Like pulling and extending at the same time with the pulling muscles winning the battle. (Am I making any sense because that all sounds kinda dumb!:confused:)
 
Yeah I’ve been dry firing a lot SHO, WHO, and both hands and trying to get the least amount of movement.

Putting a little more finger , like closer to the first joint or on the joint, seems to be the best for me. To go any deeper I have to rotate my grip which I assume will be counterproductive. I already shoot weird since I’m right handed but left eye dominant. With my left hand, more finger makes it worse.
one thing that was YUGE for me was pulling the trigger all the way back to the wall. Steady “roll” through the break all the way to the stop.
I tell my point shooting students life is too short to adapt our bodies to Glock triggers.

Once proficient with fast/quick dry fire without moving the front sight using comfortable grip/trigger, I have them do natural point of aim exercise to synchronize POI with POA. Key is once pistol is drawn and neutral grip formed, nothing changes to grip/trigger so trigger control can be more consistent.

And if shot groups are consistently deviating from POA using sights, simply drift the sights.

And for faster follow up/double taps, a complete "trigger pull/press" is after releasing the striker, immediately/automatically returning the trigger/finger forward past the reset point.
 
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