Help Removing Stuck baffles from suppressor

[Mac Attack]

I need some help or advice on how to remove stuck baffles on my Gemtech Outback IIID suppressor. Gemtech says to clean the suppressor after 150 rounds. Well I went slightly past that mark and ended up shooting a 1,500 rounds since my last disassemble and cleaning. I was able to get the top three baffles out but the bottom 2 are stuck and will not come out. I tried soaking my suppressor in a bottle of WD-40, tried pushing them out from the screw side opening and even tried pulling them out using a bent piece of steel and they would not move.

I hate to send it back to Gemtech and was hoping someone could give me some advice on how to remove them. One things for sure, do not plan to shoot beyond the recommended mark again.

Mac

 

[M-Cameron]

try some penetrating oil, something like liquid wrench......

maybe some solvent........


if that doesnt work.....try boiling it...

 

[rjrivero]

Sometimes you need to work the baffles back and forth to break up the carbon and such. It may be worth your time to pick up a high density plastic rod to help push out the K baffles without doing damage to them.

This is the one I use for my Alpine. It's a "Gas Tube Pusher" sold by Adco Firearms.

Alternatively, there are some "suppressor dissasembly tools" sold by John Titsworth on his site.

 

[Zach S]

Gemtech says to clean the suppressor after 150 rounds.

Is this typical? 150 rounds isn't even one range session...

 

[Mac Attack]

GT says to clean every 150 rounds which I thought was ridiculous. However after the problems I am having with the amount of rounds through it since my last cleaning I don't think I would go much further than recommended.

I tried penetration oil and tried pushing it out from the bottom with a hammer and wood dowel but the last 3 baffles would not budge. I Decided to see if shooting it would loosen the remaining baffles enough for me to remove them. I screwed it on and fired 20 rounds. Surprisingly the suppressor was pretty quite. Afterwards I found the baffles pushed forward enough to were I could push them out.

What do you guys use to clean your suppressors? I need something stronger than WD40.

 

[dprice3844444]

try marvel mystery oil

 

[MasterSergeantA]

You might consider soaking it with Kroil and letting it sit for a day or so.

 

[thorazine]

On occasion I will get some stuck baffles in my twenty two can and seldom in my nine can.

I'll just soak them overnight in a tub of motor oil.

Then typically just a light tap with a wooden dowel will free them up.


For cleaning just oil then I wipe them dry.

Eventually I might invest in to a wet tumbler and toss the baffles in with some cleaning media.

 

[Acera]

What do you guys use to clean your suppressors? I need something stronger than WD40.

First WD40 is a water displacement material, not a cleaner or a lube.

I use gun blast to clean mine, and have used break cleaner when that was all I had.

Got a friend that uses an ultrasonic cleaner and really likes it.

 

[GoingQuiet]

Is this typical? 150 rounds isn't even one range session...

Take apart cans are very binary. You will either clean them very often or very infrequently. There is no middle ground. On some K baffled cans, if you shoot 500 rounds and don't take it apart before you leave the range, you can plan on never being able to take it apart again ever.

 

[GoingQuiet]

First WD40 is a water displacement material, not a cleaner or a lube.

I use gun blast to clean mine, and have used break cleaner when that was all I had.

Got a friend that uses an ultrasonic cleaner and really likes it.

Be that as it may - it is very inexpensive and works great in a pinch. Also: I can buy it by the gallon for $20 as opposed to other lubricants that are substantially more expensive. It is a great material to use very liberally/soak things in inexpensively.

 

[rjrivero]

FWIW, when I reassemble my Gemtech Alpine, I use some anti-seize on the K baffles prior to re-insertion. Seems to make it easier to take apart when it's time to clean again.

 

[FSCJedi]

Are the suppressor and baffles made of stainless steel? If so, you could always use the 50/50 "dip" of peroxide and vinegar...

 

[thales]

There is something called Berryman Chem-Dip available at better auto parts stores everywhere. It is used to remove corrosion and residue from old carburetors prior to rebuilding them. Should be effective and safe for aluminum and stainless steel, but will probably destroy any sort of enamel or paint. Absolute death on plastic and rubber.

 

[rjrivero]

Chem-Dip doesn't do so well getting rid of lead. It's also absorbed through the skin, so make sure you use gloves.

 

[GoingQuiet]

Are the suppressor and baffles made of stainless steel? If so, you could always use the 50/50 "dip" of peroxide and vinegar...

The Outback 2 is no different than a pabst blue ribbon can in terms of materials.

 

[Topos]

Breaking Bonding

From old machine shop days, a 50% acetone + 50%
transmission fluid combo has the best breaking characteristics for rust.
Might be useful to try on can. (e.g. recent comparison IIRC had mixture
better than WD-40 by a factor of 5, and better than Kroil. )


If one uses anti-seize conscientiously and cleans often
you may spare yourself the " use a larger ball peen hammer, Charlie"
syndrome.

Most firearms owners/users have massive, healthy OCD in equipment maintenance, especially
if one's sustained breathing patterns had once depended on it.

 

[halogrinder]

use some PB blaster. its the closest thing i can find to acetone and ATF. the issue is- it evaporates.



PB blaster is AWESOME BTW.