Highway Patrolman - bad charge hole ---

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Several on ebay right now from about 30 to sky high. It will either drop in or need some fitting. Shouldn't be too hard for a decent smith. One screw removes the crane/cylinder assy.
 
Thank you for the leads. I have not yet decided whether to invest in corrective measures or cut my losses.
 
Thank you for the leads. I have not yet decided whether to invest in corrective measures or cut my losses.
I have to ask what you think you'll get for it if you sell it as is? I'd guess not much if you can find anyone that would take it. Not sure what I'd do.
 
Well , each situation is specific to the individual. For me , the Highway Patrolman is a classic of aesthetically attractive design . The partial lug is spot on , to my eye. I guess that is why I acquired it. On the other hand , I do not carry 357 for SD , and I see no point in buying 357 magnum for punching holes in paper and plinking. (if that term applies to a high power caliber ...?) I carry .38 +p in J frames and therefor practice with 38 ; and I have a lot of K frames for recreation. All of which means that I am not all that eager to spend money to correct my one and only 357. Do I need an N frame? Not really ... do I fix and keep it because it is a handsome , iconic revolver ? ..... don't know yet.

If I were to cut my losses and sell to someone who wishes to take corrective measures I would be thinking $350 , since you asked. Is that realistic?
 
I honestly don't know what the gun is worth with a bad cylinder. I can tell you anyone thinking of buying it will be thinking it could blow up. I was amazed that there are replacement cylinders available for a gun that old.

I own 2 of these revolvers and they are tanks, I've said everyone should own at least one. I'm glad I'm not in your shoes because I don't know what I'd do.
 
6-8 months back I acquired a S&W H.P. I ran a box of standard pressure .38 special thru it and put away in the safe , where it languished until today. Today I loaded 357 mag and .38+P. Right away I started to have ejection problems. An individual charge hole , always the same one , seemed to be allowing casings to expand , resulting in resistance to ejection. I tried one of the compromised casings in the other charge holes ; it would not fit. All other spent casings fit into all charge holes.

It would appear that I have an oversized chamber , or charge hole. Not good.

Questions :
1) What would cause this?
2) Am I correct in thinking that the solution to this problem is a cylinder replacement? If not that , then what?
3) If I do in fact need a new cylinder , is it a simple swap ,View attachment 786876 or must it be timed by a smith , as in "return to Mother Ship"?

I'd like to take remedial measures fairly soon in the interest of getting the taste of disappointment out of my mouth. Please view the malformed casing and give comment.

Thanks 'Ski

I would let a GOOD gunsmith take care of it all, get cylinder & install it.
I have a S&W 25-5 that can use a cylinder just for looks & a gunsmith told me if I find a cylinder he would
install it. That was last year, haven't beat down the bushes but haven't found one yet.
Hope it goes ok.
 
Well , each situation is specific to the individual. For me , the Highway Patrolman is a classic of aesthetically attractive design . The partial lug is spot on , to my eye. I guess that is why I acquired it. On the other hand , I do not carry 357 for SD , and I see no point in buying 357 magnum for punching holes in paper and plinking. (if that term applies to a high power caliber ...?) I carry .38 +p in J frames and therefor practice with 38 ; and I have a lot of K frames for recreation. All of which means that I am not all that eager to spend money to correct my one and only 357. Do I need an N frame? Not really ... do I fix and keep it because it is a handsome , iconic revolver ? ..... don't know yet.

If I were to cut my losses and sell to someone who wishes to take corrective measures I would be thinking $350 , since you asked. Is that realistic?
Have you called S&W? The carry-up on one of my M28 cylinders is off very slightly due to a worn ratchet lug. I called them about a year ago and they said no problem. I see no reason they couldn't fit yours with a complete current production N-frame cylinder and ratchet. They won't be recessed, but so what. IIRC, they quoted me $125 for the ratchet and retiming.

I decided to live with mine because it is very minor and not really a safety or functional problem. Th e M28 is a fantastic gun and well worth saving, but if you decide to sell it as is, I think you are spot on at $350 as a perfect one is in the $700 range. Good luck!
 
By "found" I meant for sale. Have not purchased to gold plated cylinder.

I am afraid that a gold plated model 28 cylinder would come with a pair of safety glasses with the lenses in the shape of big hearts , bordered with rhinestones.
 
By "found" I meant for sale. Have not purchased to gold plated cylinder.

I am afraid that a gold plated model 28 cylinder would come with a pair of safety glasses with the lenses in the shape of big hearts , bordered with rhinestones.

Afraid they come with? I'd hope they're included... :what:

It shouldn't be too hard to find a cylinder for a 28-2 with a little patience. S&W only made tens of thousands of them. It's definitely worth resurrecting in my mind, as the N-frame .357s with the half-lug and tapered barrels have a "just right" look and balance to them.

As it sits, knowing what it needs for work, if it were offered around here you'd be lucky to get $200. Clean, functional and ready to go 28s can be had for $450-550, again with a little patience. Though I did walk into a shop where the owner was bragging about selling a 28 for $900. I walked right back out.
 
eBay has about 5 cylinders on auction now that will fit the M28 . The lowest price one is without the extractor star and has a little peening on one locking notch. Start price $40 and a $60 BIN . I think the most reasonable one is $89 and listed as a .357 N frame and is a BIN I think - it has the extractor with it and looks pretty good. A couple are over $200 (like new) and there is one or two at $100+
 
It's certainly easier to just sell it but that's a losing proposition. Simply replacing the cylinder is the second easiest but then you'll probably have more in it than it will ever be worth and it'll be just like anybody else's 28. Were it me, I'd bite the bullet and make it into something special. I would have a gunsmith inspect it before I ever bought a cylinder. It's possible that it's damaged, it's possible that it could be rechambered. Need to know which before spending money. Then I'd decide what caliber I wanted it rechambered/rebored to. Personally, I would choose something that interested me that was not available from the factory. You can buy 24-3's so the .44Spl no longer makes much sense. Cartridges I'd consider are the 10mm, .38-40, .41Mag, .44-40 and maybe .45ACP. I'd also have the gun polished out like a 27 and have some nice oversized walnut grips made for it.
 
"Were it me, I'd bite the bullet and make it into something special. "
Well , a Highway Patrolman with a gold plated cylinder would be special.
"I would choose something that interested me that was not available from the factory."
The gold plated cylinder satisfies that criteria as well.

Thank you for the suggestion to turn lemons into lemonade , but the truth of the matter is I have no interest in those calibers. Also , such a conversion would involve more gunsmith fee that I am willing to shoulder. I appreciate the thought , and the leads on cylinders given by rivrat. I'll decide whether to put it right or cut and run within a few days. I can make a good argument for either option ; my gut will decide for me soon.
 
Well , I have committed to a replacement cylinder. Not the cheapest one out there but very clean , recessed , and mod 28 specific. (Sorry , not the gold plated one.)
It may be that any N frame 357 cylinder would work , but why not get the correct finish and improve chances of a good fit?

Soon I will see if I luck out regarding a drop-in replacement. Sure hope so...
 
The new -current production - cylinders do not have the case heads recessed.
It can be fitted. I had this done on a Model 29 that I sent to S&W for overhaul.
Didn't suspect that it needed replacement, but they did it.
Be careful of ebay parts. They may have the same problem you are wanting to eliminate.
 
First of all. I would not shoot anything out of that cylinder. Destroy it. That brass is so obviously distorted that you are endanger of the cylinder wall collapsing, resulting in an earth shattering kaboom. Not shooting out of that cylinder is NOT the answer, as the neighboring cylinder's wall is just as compromised. Only shooting .38's is NOT the answer, as the next fellow might pick it up and put six full house Buffalo Bore Elk killers in it.

Next. Buy a replacement cylinder online. You can generally get one fairly cheap. Function over finish. Recessed doesn't matter.

I've changed enough of these to say that you have better than a 90% chance that no smithing will be required.
 
20180509_184225.jpg Beautiful cylinder. Went to the bench with great anticipation ... Swapped the crane assembly , and --- It does not fit! Cylinder will not close into frame when mounted on crane assembly ; it will drop into position and cycle sans crane , but with resistance - insufficient clearance between cylinder face and forcing cone. My micrometer is on my desk at work , but I know what it will tell me : the replacement cylinder is a few thousands longer than the original. Deep disappointment. Solution is to relieve forcing cone? Beyond my pay grade , to borrow a term.

No turning back now , I guess. I am considering sending the HP to the "Mother Ship" and having it fitted , tuned , and re-blued while I'm at it.

Comments? Suggestions?
 
Solution is to relieve forcing cone? Beyond my pay grade , to borrow a term
Mine too. But.... I bought a used 25-5 .45 Colt that the cylinder scrubbed the forcing cone part way around. I carefully filed the forcing cone with focus on keeping it flat/square. Issue solved and it still out shoots me. The right way to fix it? I have no clue. The gunsmithing section could answer that question.
 
Cylinders, 1 or 2 chambers can have high spots that rub the barrel. Instead of returning for repair, i had my gunsmith face off the cylinder in a lathe. But this was a new S&W with a correctly fitted cylinder.

Factory repair seems the best choice.
Are you using the extractor star from the original cylinder in the replacement cylinder?


End shake and at the end cylinder gap.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...cylinder-gap-on-j-frame.836186/#post-10826814
 
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