Homemade gun oils?

[lsudave]

Yeah, I know, buy gun oil for guns, automotive oil for cars, etc...

but anyway, I read Grant Cunningham's nice writeup on what a gun oil is and should be/do.

Of note, I saw he ended up recommending Lubriplate FMO-350-AW food-grade oil. As he noted, being listed as food-grade is good, as it's less toxic than some (a lot) of what we used, safer to be exposed to than, say, Mobil 1 synthetic. I see Lubriplate is actually now selling spray cans marketed for firearms,... at the price of $20 a spraycan.

So I did an online search, and found a different brand (I forget the brand, it's a German corporation), and found their straight replacement oil for the Lubriplate stuff. Also same food grade, also with antiwear additives, anti corrosion and rust inhibiters. $25 for a gallon. Turns out is is highly refined white mineral oil. with the additive packages, in a 20 weight thickness. Just mildly thicker than Ballistol, my personal choice. I've used it to lube up, wipe down, and for some cleaning after the range, and it seems to work just fine. But ... it doesn't smell. I've gotten used to my gun/snake oils having a smell. and Ballistol smells like Anise (black licorice, or sweaty gym clothes).

Did a little more research and found "choji oil", which is just mineral oil with Clove oil (or Camelia oil) added. Seems to be the oil to use on Japanese katanas. Got a girlfriend who's into aromatherapy, she found me some clove oil, and I put a bit into the gallon jug (probably not more than a third of an ounce). I figure at that ratio, it can't hurt any of the "real oil's" properties (and it's supposed to be very high in antioxidants anyway), and it definitely gives it a smell.

Now, in comparing to Ballistol- the MSDS for that is almost completely mineral oil too. But Ballistol emulsifies in water, what would that be (and consider that it's an old recipe, probably not too terribly hard to find and mix up). I do see Ballistol also contains oleic acid and some alcohols... anyone know what, exactly, these might be?

I'll use this stuff as normal lube for now, it can't be any worse than, say, Fireclean (which I understand is basically the same as the oil you spray in a frying pan to make it non-stick; and which I also understand seems to work just fine). I'm curious if anyone else has whipped up some home brew that they're using.

 

[boom boom]

Several of recent threads in other thr forums on self made gun lube if you search. One discusses ballistol in particular.

 

[lsudave]

Several of recent threads in other thr forums on self made gun lube if you search. One discusses ballistol in particular.

Really, I hadn't seen them, unless they are just "what do you use" threads. Most of the Ballistol discussions I've seen run along that vein.

I've seen some older threads, including 1 or 2 (maybe on different forums) that go so far as to list the MSDS for Ballistol, but in those, I've never been able to determine HOW to make it (if anyone has). In one thread, somebody also discusses isobutanes and isohexanols (sp) listed in the MSDS, but I realized that sheet was for the aerosol can, and those are the propellants.

Several threads I've read seem to say you can't just mix ingredients, they don't necessarily combine. I had trouble finding out if the main oil I have (essentially mineral oil) would mix correctly with the clove oil (an essential oil), or whether they would just separate and sit in different layers. Wasn't really addressed in gun forums, and in the aromatherapy forums you don't get past "don't use mineral oil as a carrier, it clogs your pores". Wasn't until I found the Choji oil referenced in blade forums, that I felt comfortable that it would actually mix.

Stuff I'm using is Summit FG Elite 68, produced by Klüber Lubricants. It is listed as an acceptable replacement for Lubriplate FMO 350 AW as required and seems to have all the same certifications. Not being an "oil guy" beyond the average layperson's awareness, what little I did find (the MSDS and certified usage, etc), say it's "basically" the same stuff.
From their site:

Summit FG Elite Series food grade lubricants use 100 percent multi-synthetic base oils in combination with performance driven additives to offer extended lubricant life. Field tests have shown these lubricants will last between 8,000 and 10,000 hours depending on operating conditions. In addition, this innovative chemistry offers increased solvency, which significantly reduces deposit and sludge formation. Summit FG Elite Series lubricants offer superior protection against rust, wear and corrosion. Summit FG Elite Series lubricants meet USDA 1998 (H1) guidelines (lubricants with incidental food contact) and are manufactured in an ISO 21469 certified facility

Summit FG Elite Series lubricants are specially designed for rotary screw, vane and reciprocating air compressors used in the food service industry

is recommended for use in the following applications: Rotary screw and vane compressors Small reciprocating compressors Ball and roller bearings Low temperature lubrication High temperature lubrication General lubrication for applications requiring an ISO 68 lubricant

Sounds to me that it will stand up fine for a firearm, I gotta imagine the antiwear properties required for compressors are enough to work fine. Gotta think the intended industrial environment might be harsher (more rust and corrosive) than anything I would do to my guns. And as far as safe and non-toxic getting on me, the only listed hazard is if I somehow cause it to become a mist. If I ingest it, the recommended treatment is to drink a couple cups of water . Is listed as a "mild irritant" for eye contact.
Seems to be stable as long as I stay below 450 degrees, the listed flashpoint.

 

[C0untZer0]

Grant Cunningham's article:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Corrosion tests:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

For people who like to mix their own stuff up:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

I personally like Lubriplate - Grant Cunningham in the article also recommends Lubriplate “SFL” NLGI #0 grease:

I think there is a very wide range of lubricants that work in firearms, or another way of putting it is that many people can use many many different kinds of lubricants in their firearms and report that their choice of lubricant has worked without issue.

I use a tiny bit of Lubriplate on the linkage or locking lugs and a tiny bit of light weight motor oil - like 0W10 on the other lubrication points and its never failed me.

For cleaning I use equal parts ATF, kerosene and heavy mineral oil - a variation on Ed's Red. I don't buy the tiny bottles of mineral oil from the drugstore, which are expensive, and usually that is light mineral oil, I purchase heavy mineral oil by the gallon at Farm & Fleet.

 

[JTQ]

The best gun oil quote I've read, goes something like this from gunsmith Ned Christiansen...

"I just tell people get the commercially offered gun lube of your choice that is conveniently packaged for however you use it. In other words, a peanut butter jar and ladle is not going to be very convenient. A squeeze bottle with a pointy tip is pretty convenient."

The cost of commercial gun oils is certainly much more than a quart of Mobil 1/AMSOIL/Royal Purple 10/w whatever, but a 4 oz bottle of commercial gun oil is most likely going to last over 2,000 rounds of shooting. Even an expensive gun oil in the $15 - $20 per 4 oz bottle is completely lost in the cost of ammunition.

 

[lsudave]

I personally like Lubriplate - Grant Cunningham in the article also recommends Lubriplate “SFL” NLGI #0 grease:

Yeah, I was looking for Lubriplate when I found the Summit oil. Identical specs, intended to be interchangeable.

For cleaning I use equal parts ATF, kerosene and heavy mineral oil - a variation on Ed's Red

I've used ATF + lamp oil (scented kerosene basically), with good results, especially as a soak in a big jar. Just strain it every so often, will last a very long time. Removes a lot of crud.
Heck, I've used non-chlorinated brake cleaner, works fantastic as a spray cleaner, and cheap too.

Kinda want to find something I can get on my hands without longterm risk, as I do actually like to clean my guns. I like the CLP aspect of Ballistol, I figure this stuff covers LP; wanted to figure how to make i work for the C part

 

[lsudave]

The best gun oil quote I've read, goes something like this from gunsmith Ned Christiansen...

"I just tell people get the commercially offered gun lube of your choice that is conveniently packaged for however you use it. In other words, a peanut butter jar and ladle is not going to be very convenient. A squeeze bottle with a pointy tip is pretty convenient."

The cost of commercial gun oils is certainly much more than a quart of Mobil 1/AMSOIL/Royal Purple 10/w whatever, but a 4 oz bottle of commercial gun oil is most likely going to last over 2,000 rounds of shooting. Even an expensive gun oil in the $15 - $20 per 4 oz bottle is completely lost in the cost of ammunition.

Good point, but I do offer this in reply:

I have a couple of small oil cans, the type that lets you squirt out a small, controlled amount exactly where you want. I also have some Ballistol spray pump cans, which do the same thing. I also have a funnel , which allows me to easily refill said cans.
These little oilers take up no more space than any other can of oil, and I prefer the greater control over an aerosol.

I have a decent collection of firearms, and have tended to bring quite a few to the range at any one time. I learned my lessons on ammo, and now have enough at hand to last... I might as well apply that to maintenance stuff too. For $25 for a jug of (safe) oil that works, + the oilers and funnels, I'm barely above the price of a can of dedicated "GUN" oil, and have way more.

 

[Bayou52]

Rule of thumb -

Where it slides, use light coating of grease (Mobil 1 Synthetic is my choice),

Everywhere else calling for lubrication, the light oil of your choice (Marvel Mystery Oil does it for me).

Nothing very complicated or esoteric, really...

 

[Monac]

On YouTube, there are videos by a man named Keith Appleton, who is an amazing craftsman with steel, cast iron, and bronze. He makes model steam engines, and repairs engines others have built. He mixes up his own special steam oil, which includes rapeseed oil. I believe he has made other remarks about what kind of oil is suitable for what purpose (involving steam engines), but I do not recall them.

PS - Was there a fad for molybdenum-containing lubricants some years ago, and did that end badly? I seem to remember an article by someone like Mike Venturino with photos of white crusty build-up on the insides of a revolver.

 

[hdwhit]

I'm curious if anyone else has whipped up some home brew that they're using.

Nope.

I'm still working my way through the last of the cans of Sears Roebuck & Co. Household Oil that I bought for 49 cents in Jonesboro, Arkansas, in the late 1970's.

Everyone is free to do what they want to lubricate and preserve their guns, but I have yet to read the manual of a commercial firearm that said to use something other than "a high quality firearms oil", so I've skipped the novelty for the past 38 years and just used what the manufacturer recommends and all my guns still work fine and have suffered no rust or degradation during the time I have owned them.

 

[Elkins45]

I have been using a mix of
25% Mobil-1
25% STP
50% ATF

for about 25 years now. A National Guard armorer suggested it to me and it does everything very well. It penetrates, clings and resists high heat. Great stuff!

 

[Salmoneye]

Still using up my Grandmother's Singer Sewing Machine oil...

 

[Speedo66]

Where's that sperm whale oil now that you need it? That stuff was considered to be excellent, good lubrication and protection, non hardening. Early automatic transmissions used it for transmission fluid.

Wonder if the indigenous people still able to hunt whales sell it? The Japanese and some Norwegians still hunt them, but I doubt you'd be able to bring it into the country legally.

 

[Jack B.]

I just use Rem Oil does what I need.

 

[FN in MT]

I took the Grant Cunningham tutorial on lubricants to heart. I've posted a link it dozens of times, when these "What lube to use" threads start up.

Used to tell the Recruits at the Academy to NOT use anything like WD-40 or Silicone. Just use what the Agency gives You. If You must buy lube or bore cleaner...Make sure it says "GUN" on the bottle someplace.

As far as mixing up something or using bacon grease, motor oil, etc. I have some very Treasured firearms, Weapons that mean a lot to me. Also carry a few that could possibly get used for defense....I can not understand NOT simply buying a good lube and just use it. So it cost several dollars, So What?

Just do not understand experimenting or going cheap when there's dozens of good FIREARMS lubes out there already.

 

[Jack B.]

I've been looking at the different pistol manufactures web sites and the manuals for their products. Almost all of them tell you to use a high quality firearm or gun oil to lubricate their guns after cleaning ( which they recommend you do regularly ) some even tell you not to use grease.

 

[DavidABQ]

Considering how long a small bottle of Rem-oil lasts me I can't imagine that I would save a great deal of money buying a synthetic motor oil. Of course a quart of Mobile one will last me for the remainder of my life using it on my firearms.

I just don't use enough gun oil for it to be a concern.

 

[Sir Winston]

Grant Cunningham's article:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Corrosion tests:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

For people who like to mix their own stuff up:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

I personally like Lubriplate - Grant Cunningham in the article also recommends Lubriplate “SFL” NLGI #0 grease:

I think there is a very wide range of lubricants that work in firearms, or another way of putting it is that many people can use many many different kinds of lubricants in their firearms and report that their choice of lubricant has worked without issue.

I use a tiny bit of Lubriplate on the linkage or locking lugs and a tiny bit of light weight motor oil - like 0W10 on the other lubrication points and its never failed me.

For cleaning I use equal parts ATF, kerosene and heavy mineral oil - a variation on Ed's Red. I don't buy the tiny bottles of mineral oil from the drugstore, which are expensive, and usually that is light mineral oil, I purchase heavy mineral oil by the gallon at Farm & Fleet.

Hmmmm. The test shown is one I've read and seen. But it showed 43 different products in the test. I don't no why shown here just a few products.
Anyway after 3 months the one shown to have the best protection was Hornady one shot. Cleans and lubes in one cleaning. It's a little expensive though. I am using some but the test shown here looks to be the same but much fewer products.

 

[Scooter22]

WHY? Unless your shooting all the time and multiple guns that are really dirty like full autos where your using gallons and want to save money. Why? Just get a bottle of GUN oil of some flavor and use it. Find one that smells nice to you and your all set. Use your time for reloading and shooting instead of playing mixoligest.

 

[NWPilgrim]

I'm sorry but the gene that makes me curious to explore new handload combinations also forces me to explore and try out homemade lubricant recipes!! I can't help it, it is a birth defect. Without this dad burn gene I would just shoot factory ammo, or make one recipe and stick to it forever.

I am on my tenth try to simplify, but already starting to slip and came up with three more load work-ups to try this week. I'm defective but enjoying every minute of it.

 

[Jim Watson]

I have used a lot of different lubricants on firearms, some even Official Gun Oil. Most of those latter, as the high volume competitor said, "I use whatever came in the last match goodie bag." I have FREE samples of half a dozen different products, all work according to the criterion below. I also have used automotive and industrial lubes. Right now I am putting an industrial moly grease on slide rails, and military surplus "Oil, Lubricating and Preservative" on other contact surfaces. I have some home blends, too.

The key criterion for lubrication: Apply lubricant. If it slings off, dries, or oxidizes, apply more. If you don't like to relube frequently, check out the products that claim good retention in the works.

 

[Schwing]

I have used all kinds of lubricants over the years and, frankly, have not found much difference. I do live in a desert though so humidity is basically a zero issue for me.

Currently I use mobile 1. I can't remember the weight. I use foam tip swabs or even just patches to apply it. I also fall into the category of people who isn't too concerned about what lube I use. I just always make sure I use something.

 

[Jack B.]

Remoil. Don't like to experiment and cost me a lot of money on a mistake. Don't use much and lasts along time. It's made for firearms.

 

[frankmako]

Over the years I have used just about everything on my guns. For the last several years I been using Mobile 1. Works for me.

 

[Water Garden]

As cheap as a bottle of gun lube is and for as long as it will last me, I see no compelling reason to monkey around with concocting a mixture of products which may or may not react well with gun cleaning solvents. I will simply trust the scientists to do their jobs and I will buy what I deem suitable to my needs and desired price point. If I spend less than 10 bucks for something that I know is going to last me a couple of years... I dont relly care if someone can make a gallon of homemade brew for 30 cents. It doesnt make me want to jump on that band wagon.