Homemade gun oils?
- Thread starter lsudave
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Gator Weiss
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ATF is designed to flow and run and to provide detergent dispersants. It contains chemicals that eat paint off of cars in minutes. ATF might not be good for some surfaces and great for others. Gun lubricants are designed for firearms use and all brands will lube guns and protect gun surfaces, some brands offer easier cleaning than others. Gun oil isn't made to flow, it's made to stay put and protect. ATF is designed to flow to run through a pump constantly. Surely you can use ATF and it will work for many things besides transmissions. But it wasn't engineered for guns. Gun lubricants are engineered for guns. In any case, Shooters are free to use what they like and the fun of the shooting sports is often in the experiments and tinkering and shooters often find things that work. We can engineer our own things when we wish and share our many results here.
Gator Weiss
Member
Could it be that in home mix oils, fewer ingredients might be better? If we want oil to stay put on a surface would we want to leave out anything designed to enhance flow? If we want to home mix gun-cleaning compounds we might then want something that flows into the small places to dislodge deposits. Storage oil, lubricating oil and cleaner, might be three different objectives. Internal parts grease could be a fourth objective. Stock protection could be a fifth objective. Actual bullet lubes would make a sixth. If we wanted to, we could make six different mixes designed to cover each objective. I'm curious about these things and want to see what I can come up with. I shoot black powder. I shoot center-fire cartridge guns. I shoot shotguns old and new. I carry firearms at work. There would be a wide variety of applications for my collection and shoots.
I would advise not mixing petro chemicals if you do not have some knowledge of chemistry. It can be dangerous to your health. My father used to save leftovers of all kinds of solvents and oils and dump them in an old oil can. One day he told me to tear down the carburetor on the mower and rebuild it - "here - use this" he said. No problem. After one minute of contact with his "homemade" stuff I had severe caustic burns on my hands. It burned like fire and water would not get it off me. If you don't know what you're doing - don't do it.
IMO there's many good methods and solvents, and no perfect methods and solvents for all.
A high humidity environment is a real eye-opener.
Regardless of what oil is used, there is no substitute for regular maintenance.
I like Clenzoil for the smell, but you could just light your favorite incense, if smell is important to you.
I've had a lot of success with SPECIALIST, new by WD40. While I also like Mobil1, I've
relegated ATF to deep cleaning projects only, and flush it with another solvent before lubing
said firearm.
OTOH, Brown Vinegar works miracles upon rust. But it would probably be a poor storage paradigm.
A high humidity environment is a real eye-opener.
Regardless of what oil is used, there is no substitute for regular maintenance.
I like Clenzoil for the smell, but you could just light your favorite incense, if smell is important to you.
I've had a lot of success with SPECIALIST, new by WD40. While I also like Mobil1, I've
relegated ATF to deep cleaning projects only, and flush it with another solvent before lubing
said firearm.
OTOH, Brown Vinegar works miracles upon rust. But it would probably be a poor storage paradigm.
Fine Figure of a Man
Member
Most commercial gun lube and corrosion protection products work well and are conveniently packaged. They are also designed primarily to sell and generate profit. Nothing wrong with that I'm a capitalist too. The idea that manufactured products are automatically superior to anyone's home brew is just silly.
George P
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Except with break open shotguns, it is the opposite - grease on things that rotate like choke tube threads and hinge pins and knuckles, and oil on things that slide, like ejectors
Dudedog
Contributing Member
Good stuff, Midway has cans.
I can goes a long way.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/190130/lubriplate-sfl-0-gun-grease-15-oz-tub
Elkins45
Member
IMO the main advantage to "gun oils" is the convenient package they come in. I am HIGHLY skeptical that any gun oil was actually engineered specifically for firearms, even ones that are marketed by gunmakers. It seems more likely they bought an off the shelf oil, bought some dropper bottles and printed up some labels. The only specialty oil I’ve ever found that is truly different isn’t even for guns; it’s Lawn Boy two cycle oil which really is better than generic two stroke oils.
There's really no need to tailor a lubricant for guns. Any decent motor or light machine oil will do everything needed by a firearm lubricant.
There's really no need to tailor a lubricant for guns. Any decent motor or light machine oil will do everything needed by a firearm lubricant.
doubleh
Member
If GM considers Mobil 1 to be good enough for their top line Cadillacs and Corvettes I think it will stand up to any stress I'll ever put on any of my firearms. I also use it in my GMC and my jeep. I do my own oil changes on my jeep so I have plenty of drippings left for my firearms. Amazon has some very nice applicator bottles for very little money to apply it with. I also use synthetic wheel bearing grease where grease is needed. I use Johnson's past wax on the exterior to prevent rust. I have been using this method for a very, very long time with no ill effects to either my firearms or me.
I'm not telling anyone how or what to use on their firearms, just relating my experience.
I'm not telling anyone how or what to use on their firearms, just relating my experience.
HEAVY METAL 1
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I am phasing into my second decade on a single bottle of the Mobile 1 and I have not had any negative issues. It does not take much oil to swab a bore, but still it seems Rem Oil is grossly overpriced for what it is, an oil! To me, Rem Oil seems thin whereas the Mobile product is of a higher viscosity which leads me to think it would stay put. Being so thin I question if Rem Oil would migrate. I too have used paste wax on the exterior of the rifles I take hunting and have not had a speck of rust.
2011redrider
Member
I also use it to lube the rams on my presses, it what RCBS told me that they use on the rams.
Old Shooter
Member
For what it's worth, I've been using 3-in-One oil for as long as I've been shooting guns (Over fifty years) and have seen no problems or issues whatsoever with any of the many makes and models I have owned. In the case of parts that slide on each other I dip into my old can of wheel bearing grease and have at it. Now these plastic guns that are so popular today may have some different needs but I don't own any of them so I wouldn't know.
Jim Watson
Member
I have "gun oils" (Most of them as free samples in shooting match "goodie bags.") and I have a variety of automotive and industrial lubricants. All are adequately slippery.
The last "gun oil" I paid for was during the Militec-1 fad. It did not do anything special, so I read their literature and found that it was originally an industrial gear drive oil additive. So I added it. I had a can of actual Army surplus "Oil, lubricating-preservative, light" and I just blended in the Militec-1. It did not make it wonderful but it did stretch the volume a bit and I use it more often than most.
The only other mixing I have done was to thicken oil with STP, sometimes referred to as "Ox Snot." It works, but as long as I have some grease, it does not have an advantage.
The last "gun oil" I paid for was during the Militec-1 fad. It did not do anything special, so I read their literature and found that it was originally an industrial gear drive oil additive. So I added it. I had a can of actual Army surplus "Oil, lubricating-preservative, light" and I just blended in the Militec-1. It did not make it wonderful but it did stretch the volume a bit and I use it more often than most.
The only other mixing I have done was to thicken oil with STP, sometimes referred to as "Ox Snot." It works, but as long as I have some grease, it does not have an advantage.
Riomouse911
Member
I’ve tried a bunch of commercial gun stuff, used Mobil 1 30 wt, tried 3 in 1, Singer and other lightweight machine oil, Ed’s Red-type homemade blends, new “high speed” stuff like Slip2000EWL, Froglube, etc.
If you take care of your guns properly, I seriously believe any one of these lubricants will work for the vast majority of your shooting and/or storage needs.
I’m currently using Lucas green... it came in a big bottle, it is easy to use, tacky enough to stick on AR bolts and pistol slides, and it doesn’t stink.
Once that’s gone, which at the rate I’m using it will be sometime in mid-2020, I may or may not buy more, that’s the fun of living here in the US; choices!
Stay safe.
If you take care of your guns properly, I seriously believe any one of these lubricants will work for the vast majority of your shooting and/or storage needs.
I’m currently using Lucas green... it came in a big bottle, it is easy to use, tacky enough to stick on AR bolts and pistol slides, and it doesn’t stink.
Once that’s gone, which at the rate I’m using it will be sometime in mid-2020, I may or may not buy more, that’s the fun of living here in the US; choices!
Stay safe.
Songshadow
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I like using silicone spray oil for the simple things but I will dry up, and it doesn't last long. However, it works great when I spray it down the barrel. It eliminates the smell of the gun just being fired.
For lubrication I have become fond of "Power Trim, and Steering Fluid." Walmart has it for sale in a tube in the automotive section. After I apply it, and wipe it off the bare metal feels like velvet. It works great for a sliding bolt, and hinge joints.
I also like using it for my knives too!
For stuck bolts, and rust welds I use the retro panther piss. You make that with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
For lubrication I have become fond of "Power Trim, and Steering Fluid." Walmart has it for sale in a tube in the automotive section. After I apply it, and wipe it off the bare metal feels like velvet. It works great for a sliding bolt, and hinge joints.
I also like using it for my knives too!
For stuck bolts, and rust welds I use the retro panther piss. You make that with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
Oh good heavens. The quest for gun lubricant Nirvana seems to be unending.
Because I had a sudden on-set of a crippling neurological condition that kept me away from my guns for more than 20 years, I have the unique experience of having first-hand knowledge of what protected my guns from deterioration during 20+ years of neglect.
The last time I cleaned and oiled my guns before closing them up in the safe for two decades, they were oiled with Sears Household Oil (their brand of 3-IN-ONE). None of my guns suffered any deterioration.
There is no "perfect preservative" when it comes to gun oils. Someone can spend a fortune to get marginally better protection than what is available for pennies, but how many are going to leave their guns lie fallow in the safe for the 20+ years it would take for that marginal superiority to make a difference?
There's a reason EVERY mainstream firearm manufacturer's owner's manual recommends the gun be maintained with a "high quality firearms oil" (i.e. since the 1950's that has been synonymous with our good friend "3 IN ONE") and nobody recommends specialty oils, food-grade oils, or penetrating oils. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations (so you have a basis for a warranty claim) and there should not be a problem.
Because I had a sudden on-set of a crippling neurological condition that kept me away from my guns for more than 20 years, I have the unique experience of having first-hand knowledge of what protected my guns from deterioration during 20+ years of neglect.
The last time I cleaned and oiled my guns before closing them up in the safe for two decades, they were oiled with Sears Household Oil (their brand of 3-IN-ONE). None of my guns suffered any deterioration.
There is no "perfect preservative" when it comes to gun oils. Someone can spend a fortune to get marginally better protection than what is available for pennies, but how many are going to leave their guns lie fallow in the safe for the 20+ years it would take for that marginal superiority to make a difference?
There's a reason EVERY mainstream firearm manufacturer's owner's manual recommends the gun be maintained with a "high quality firearms oil" (i.e. since the 1950's that has been synonymous with our good friend "3 IN ONE") and nobody recommends specialty oils, food-grade oils, or penetrating oils. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations (so you have a basis for a warranty claim) and there should not be a problem.
Any food-grade oil will, by definition, break down in the presence of oxidants (like stomach acid, skin oil or air) and so are suitable only for short-term use. Thus, I fail to see any advantage to recommending a food-grade oil for use in preserving a non-food item other than to appeal to people's desire to participate in an all-natural nirvana that never actually existed.
Dht808
Member
I just ran a test with the 3 in 1 long lasting formula ($6/ 4oz. Bottle). Took a map gas torch to it and let the flame sit on it for at least 5 sec on a clean piece of aluminum and repeated 5 times on the same drop of oil. One 1/4" drop worth of oil would spread out flat and even, roughly to the size of a quarter. It stayed very slick to the touch and didn't discolor in any way. That definitly makes me feel better about using it in my ARs/BCGs and bolt action rifles. I guess the next test is to put the oil in the freezer. But i live in hawaii so i dont think its necessary for my knowledge.
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John Joseph
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A small bottle of Outers doesn't cost much, and lasts a long time even with frequent cleaning and reapplications.
Wahl, Singer and 3 in 1 work fine as well.
Wahl, Singer and 3 in 1 work fine as well.
Buzznrose
Member
“What gun oil should I use?” is pretty much only a question asked in the US and other “First World” nations.
Third world countries, from the desert of SW Asia to the jungles of Africa run their old, mil surplus guns quite consistently on a steady diet of aged milsurp ammo, lubed with any motor oil dribbled from a dipstick, and cleaned with number 2 diesel.
Basically, paraphrased from a conversation between Bill Wilson and Ken Hackathorn, with minor personal experience added based on stuff learned deployed to the sandbox and other parts of this blue rock...
Third world countries, from the desert of SW Asia to the jungles of Africa run their old, mil surplus guns quite consistently on a steady diet of aged milsurp ammo, lubed with any motor oil dribbled from a dipstick, and cleaned with number 2 diesel.
Basically, paraphrased from a conversation between Bill Wilson and Ken Hackathorn, with minor personal experience added based on stuff learned deployed to the sandbox and other parts of this blue rock...
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Buzznrose
Member
The Battlefield Las Vegas gun range uses Lucas Gun Oil because 1: their RO/SO’s like the fact it sprays less than other oils (they rent lots of full auto guns and 2: it passes their MSDS test for the companies who service their cleaning rags.
I use it because it is sold in nice, small, needle point bottles at ORiellys Auto Parts at the counter for $5, and I get a military discount. Bought several to keep in my truck, range bags, and pass out to friends in need at matches or range. Works fine on AR BCG’s, which means it should work okay for most any gun. I really like the needle point bottle. I ran one bottle empty and refilled with some Ballistol liquid...works great.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...s-gun-oil/10875/5628445?q=Lucas+gun+oil&pos=0
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...s-gun-oil/10006/4419717?q=Lucas+gun+oil&pos=1
I use it because it is sold in nice, small, needle point bottles at ORiellys Auto Parts at the counter for $5, and I get a military discount. Bought several to keep in my truck, range bags, and pass out to friends in need at matches or range. Works fine on AR BCG’s, which means it should work okay for most any gun. I really like the needle point bottle. I ran one bottle empty and refilled with some Ballistol liquid...works great.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...s-gun-oil/10875/5628445?q=Lucas+gun+oil&pos=0
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...s-gun-oil/10006/4419717?q=Lucas+gun+oil&pos=1
Speedo66
Member
I think at this stage of the game we're all somewhat attuned to trying not to harm ourselves or the environment with toxic chemicals.
If I can find a competent substitute for something I feel may be harmful to my health, or future generations, that's not difficult to obtain or overly expensive, I'm going for it.
If it's actually cheaper, well that's a win-win. There seems to be a correlation between gun enthusiasts and car buffs. How many really bad chemicals have we exposed ourselves to in the past? Used motor oil, leaded gas, brake fluid, asbestos brake dust, brake spray cleaner, the list goes on and on.
We know to be careful around acetone, etc., shouldn't we be careful with gun products, too? We've only got so many brain cells, and mine are old and tired at this point. lol
If I can find a competent substitute for something I feel may be harmful to my health, or future generations, that's not difficult to obtain or overly expensive, I'm going for it.
If it's actually cheaper, well that's a win-win. There seems to be a correlation between gun enthusiasts and car buffs. How many really bad chemicals have we exposed ourselves to in the past? Used motor oil, leaded gas, brake fluid, asbestos brake dust, brake spray cleaner, the list goes on and on.
We know to be careful around acetone, etc., shouldn't we be careful with gun products, too? We've only got so many brain cells, and mine are old and tired at this point. lol
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