Hornady Brass Quality control, 7mm Remington Magnum

[kitchengunsmith]

When I got my 7mm RM I got a bunch of Hornady brass. I've fired some of them a couple times now and every time, no matter how hot I load them, they stick in the chamber. The bolt turns up just as easy as you could hope for but it can be difficult to pull rearward. There are no pressure signs on the brass, not even flattened primers. There are also little scratches on the brass that I thought were from the magazine. I tried some Federal Premium factory rounds with nickel plated brass and they eject just fine without any scratches. I've heard about the belted magnum Colette resizing die, but I haven't had any problems chambering rounds, it's only after firing them that they become problematic. Is Hornady brass just not good? I feel like for the price, it should at least function smoothly. Am I insane? I have gotten some excellent results as far as accuracy and MV variation with this brass. I'd hate to not be able to use it for anything except punching paper. I'm not going to use brass that I can't quickly eject. Thanks in advance for any input

 

[Varminterror]

Hornady brass is softer and thinner than Lapua, so it tends to experience loose pockets more quickly, but it also tends to be very consistent - which is becoming rare in current production, "big name" brand brass. It'll tend to be a little more apt to stick then, with max loads, as it doesn't spring back as much as other brands.

If your bolt is lifting easily but secondary extraction is difficult, I'd be looking at the RIFLE, not just at the ammo. Your bolt lift should be your primary extraction, but it's not uncommon for the cams to be positioned incorrectly such you don't get any primary extraction (cough, Remington 700's, cough...).

Measure your case body right in front of the belt. Larry Willis sells a collet body die for belted mags, but I honestly don't think that's your problem. I run Hornady brass in most of my belted mags these days.

Nickel brass is harder on the surface than yellow brass, so I'm not surprised to hear your saw scratches on yellow but not on nickel.

 

[Walkalong]

If your bolt is lifting easily but secondary extraction is difficult, I'd be looking at the RIFLE, not just at the ammo.

Agreed.

 

[GooseGestapo]

What kind of rifle?
I'm betting Savage. I've got one, had several. They lack the camming action of a Mauser or clone (Springfield, Win M700, RemM700 etc) to start the extraction process. A big part of the brilliance of the Mauser design.

With warmish loads, I find the Savage will require a good rap to the bolt to facilitate extraction. It's the reason I only have one, a .300RUM that I'd be lucky to get $150 for...

I've found that Hornady brass tends to run a little heavier (thicker), therefore lower volumn. Sounds you need to back off the powder a tad.

 

[Varminterror]

What kind of rifle?
I'm betting Savage. I've got one, had several. They lack the camming action of a Mauser or clone (Springfield, Win M700, RemM700 etc) to start the extraction process.

The Savages still have a primary extraction cam - it's simply added on in the rear baffle, which dead stops against the receiver at front and left bottom when the bolt is opened, rather than built into the rear of the receiver itself.



I personally find it to be a little higher in the bolt stroke than I'm used to in other brands, and if the rear baffle isn't fit well, it's just as bad as a Rem 700 with the bolt handle indexed incorrectly, but it still does offer camming leverage for primary extraction.

 

[Driftertank]

Don't suppose you have any other yellow brass laying about, to try for reference?

I've used a fair bit of Hornady 7mmRM brass in my Rem, i haven't had any issues. I actually only neck size for the first 2-3 reloads.

 

[kitchengunsmith]

Thanks guys. Remington 700. I think I'll try some other yellow brass, plus I have another batch of Hornadies I can try. If it still sticks I guess its the rifle

 

[Varminterror]

Easy enough to test for primary extraction. Watch the extraction cam while opening the bolt while pulling rearward on the bolt handle. You can run witness fluid on the camming surfaces, and can use a fired case with a piece of shim tape on the base to create the rearward pressure. Even with rearward pressure, it should be making contact on the cam to offer your primary extraction.

 

[kitchengunsmith]

So I found a YouTube video that explains exactly whats going on with my rifle. You hit the nail on the head Varminterror. I guess its a common problem with Rem 700s with serial numbers starting with 'RR'. Here's the link o the video if anyone's interested:
Thanks again for everyone's input

 

[Orcon]

It's the reason I only have one, a .300RUM that I'd be lucky to get $150 for...

Do you take paypal?

 

[Charliefrank]

It could be as simple as a dirty chamber. If there's any crud stuck in there the soft yellow brass will fire form right around it, making extraction difficult. I had several different make rifles come through my shop back in the day that had this condition. As pointed out earlier nickel plated brass is harder and therefore not as affected.

 

[GooseGestapo]

No to PayPal.
Wouldn't sell it for that either. If so, it would be long gone.