How can I get rust off w/out wrecking finish?

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Packman

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Hi everyone. I'm trying to find out the best way to get some rust off a gun barrel.

The gun in question is a Remington model 12CS (Last made in 1936, chambered in .22 WRF). It was last fired, and therefore cleaned, over 30 years ago by my Dad. I don't know how old it is exactly, but I know it belonged to my great-grandfather, and my grandfather first got it in 1954.

At any rate, because it's been so long since it was cleaned, it's started rusting. The rust isn't horrendous yet, but it is there and I want it gone. I'm leery of scrubbing it with anything, because I don't want to ruin the finish.

So far, I've tried CRC and Hoppes No 9 oil, neither of which did anything at all. what can I use to get the rust off without ruining the finish?

Thanks.
 
Go to the hardware store and get some 0000 grade steel wool.
Then use that & Hoppes #9 to remove the rust.

What you need to know though, is that the bluing under the rust is already gone.

But at any rate, the ultra fine steel wool won't hurt the remaining bluing the rust hasn't already ruined.

Gunsmiths use it all the time to card off the red rust residue left from the bluing salts when hot bluing guns.

1224.jpg
rcmodel
 
so the finish is already toast, huh? Well, OK. Can't do much about that. thanks for the tip. If the finish is already gone, I guess the abrasiveness of the steel wool won't hurt anything. I'll just have to make very sure to keep it well oiled in the future. I don't think I'd put the money it to have it refinished.
 
For lighter rusting I have been able to save the finish using the same method but substituting heavy denim cloth for the steel wool
 
I have always used 0000 steel wool saturated with WD40 then flush the area with WD40. The results can be very pleasing. P.S. DON"T use rust removers! They WILL get the remaining bluing as well!
 
Last edited:
Cool, thanks for the tip. I just may try that denim, but I'm leaning to the wool. I'm not planning on using rust removers at this point, just Hoppes #9.

Thanks everyone.
 
I had three finger prints of rust on my M-39. Used steel wool and break free got most of it off. Shoot it on a hot day and forgot to clean it and oil the barrel. Bob
 
I guess the abrasiveness of the steel wool won't hurt anything.
Click to expand...
0000 steel wool is not abrasive in the least when used with solvent or oil. It is actually slightly softer then the iron oxide that makes up the blued surface.

BTW: Bluing is actually a byproduct of rust, just pretty rust.

I would advise you to go ahead and get it cleaned off ASAP.
If you don't, it will only continue to get worse until deep pitting takes place under the light surface rust.

1224.jpg
rcmodel
 
I use 0000 steel wool to buff out new bluing. It really brings out the shine. "Bluing is just pretty rust" yep, that about sizes it up!
 
A member on one forum or another suggested scribbling on rust with pencil lead. I used it with great results on a .22 I am restoring.
 
But is the carbon from the pencil lead just covering up the rust, or actually removing it.

If you don't remove it all, right down to the bottom of the rust, it will continue to rust and get worse.

Use the steel wool & oil, please!

1224.jpg
rcmodel
 
But is the carbon from the pencil lead just covering up the rust, or actually removing it.
Click to expand...

It worked pretty well at removing it. It kind of had the effect you would get from using a pick. Kinda flakes it off. Then I gave it a light going over with wool and oil, then cold blued the spot. Can't even tell it was there.
 
Okay..he was talking about removing flaking rust with the pencil. I can see that. You then follow up with the oil and wool. That is the best way to get rid of rust. I did use some Weapon Shield and steel wool on my friend's Mosin that seemed to take on some surface rust. It removed it very well, and after a wiping with a clean cloth and another application of Weapon Shield, it's protected also, something Hoppes Oil does patheticly.
 
I use a real light oil , such as rem oil, then use the 0000 wool, and i dont rub with any pressure; just move the wool. when it is done, dry it up nice, then get you a tube of Blue wonder touch up bluing; unless you are doing a lot or a big job, their touch up job does very well, an untrained eye would not catch the diff.
 
As a matter of fact, I had a 70 year old mauser, with a bunch of tiny spots. removed them all, the used the blue wonder touch up, and the whole bbl looks like a highly polished, new bbl. no sweat.
 
0000 wont hurt the remaining bluing if you are gentle and use oil.

Do NOT use a rust remover. Bluing is rust...just rust that looks good lol.
 
Is it rust or is it a brownish patina? I have a couple of old .22s dating back to the 20's and 30's that have no bluing left on them but the barrel is a smooth kind of medium brownish grayish color with no pitting. This is normal I think and personally, I wouldn't try to scrape it down to bare metal. On mine I just got it lightlywith the 0000 steel wool and keep it lightly oiled.
 
Is it rust or is it a brownish patina?
Click to expand...

No, it's definitely rust. You can see on the rest of the barrel that it was a blued finish.

I've got some 0000 steel wool and Hoppes #9 that I'm going to try in a few hours. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Thanks for the Help!
 
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Join Date: 12-24-02
Posts: 1,209 blue wonder

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This works exactly as described:

http://www.bluewonder.us/RustRemoval...unCleaner.html

Wont harm blueing, only the rust gets dissolved (or whatever)
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+1 A gunsmith I know says this Blue Wonder works very well on removing rust without taking the blueing off.
 
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