I have a Rock River AR15 A4 CAR. Currently it has a 6 position stock, and I would like to put on the ACE SKELETON full size. I have the stock, the standard buffer, buffer tube, and full size spring. What are the steps, and can it be done on my own? Please let me know if I should have a gunsmith do this, or if it can be done as a privateer. Thank you.
How do I change an AR15 Stock??
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halfacop
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Here are the basic steps using a Magpul CTR stock - but the basics remain the same!
http://www.riflegear.com/t-howto-ctr-stock.aspx
I actually never took my upper off when I installed mine. I simply unscrewed the orginal, Made sure the internals were assembled right, and screwed the new one on and tightened the castle nut down.
Biggest thing is you need to make sure you don't forget the little safety spring under the plate.
EASY JOB - YOU WILL HAVE NO PROBLEM!
Good Luck,
Half
http://www.riflegear.com/t-howto-ctr-stock.aspx
I actually never took my upper off when I installed mine. I simply unscrewed the orginal, Made sure the internals were assembled right, and screwed the new one on and tightened the castle nut down.
Biggest thing is you need to make sure you don't forget the little safety spring under the plate.
EASY JOB - YOU WILL HAVE NO PROBLEM!
Good Luck,
Half
halfacop
Member
You bet - not a problem. Enjoy the lesson.
Just be ready once you get that stock loose, Those springs like to shoot out on ya. So keep an eye out for the safety spring.
Just be ready once you get that stock loose, Those springs like to shoot out on ya. So keep an eye out for the safety spring.
One word about the RRA factory receiver nut that most folks don't remember if they don't work with RRAs on a frequent basis... The folks at RRA don't stake this nut to mil-spec so theoretically it should be easier to remove when required. The problem is that the nut itself is not up to spec as it's too brittle to allow proper staking. It cracks all to pieces when staked so the good guys at RRA have went ahead and loctited it down solid. It will also likely crack if you try to force it off without heating the loctite. It will take a little bit of heat applied to get the loctite to let go and then you can remove the nut easily enough.
Good luck.
Good luck.
You don't actually stake the castle nut, you stake the endplate to flow metal into the cutouts on the castle nut.
If the castle nut shatters it most definately isn't mil standard and would actually be in the same league as Jennings/Bryco/Raven standards of pot metal.
In my most humble opinion, if anybody really needs to goop Loc-Tite on the extension tube to keep the castle nut secure then they have some real issues with quality standards.
A properly dimensioned extension tube-castle nut-endplate that are properly torqued will stay in place without the staking or the Loc-Tite.
There are lower receiver blocks that fit in the magazine well and allow the receiver to be chucked up in a bench vice available.
Great piece of tooling.
I also have a heavy duty, multiple use combination wrench from Smith Enterprise that I normally use to break extension tubes free from the lower receiver.
Use caution, If the extension does not pop free using a moderate amount of force you need to switch to a strap wrench cinched up tight at the end of the extension tube close to the receiver through ring.
Remember, counter clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten.
If you try grunting the too tight extension tube off using a wrench at the end you run the risk of bending the receiver or breaking the top of the receiver extension through ring.
Heat will cause any Loc-tite to release but you will have to get the area really hot, 400 to 600 degrees farenheight depending on the type of Loc-Tite.
A propane torch will do the job.
Don't replace the Loc-Tite on the rebuild, the fixed stock will keep the extension tube in place just fine. HTH
If the castle nut shatters it most definately isn't mil standard and would actually be in the same league as Jennings/Bryco/Raven standards of pot metal.
In my most humble opinion, if anybody really needs to goop Loc-Tite on the extension tube to keep the castle nut secure then they have some real issues with quality standards.
A properly dimensioned extension tube-castle nut-endplate that are properly torqued will stay in place without the staking or the Loc-Tite.
There are lower receiver blocks that fit in the magazine well and allow the receiver to be chucked up in a bench vice available.
Great piece of tooling.
I also have a heavy duty, multiple use combination wrench from Smith Enterprise that I normally use to break extension tubes free from the lower receiver.
Use caution, If the extension does not pop free using a moderate amount of force you need to switch to a strap wrench cinched up tight at the end of the extension tube close to the receiver through ring.
Remember, counter clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten.
If you try grunting the too tight extension tube off using a wrench at the end you run the risk of bending the receiver or breaking the top of the receiver extension through ring.
Heat will cause any Loc-tite to release but you will have to get the area really hot, 400 to 600 degrees farenheight depending on the type of Loc-Tite.
A propane torch will do the job.
Don't replace the Loc-Tite on the rebuild, the fixed stock will keep the extension tube in place just fine. HTH
You are correct. There are many reports that staking the endplate to flow into the castlenut caused the nut to crack. Many reports too that the nut crumbled to pieces when an attempt to remove it without dissolving the loctite.
I was one of the guys reporting the problem when I began the mods to bring my Entry Tactical up to spec listed in the proper manuals. After ruining two RRA castle nuts I obtained them elsewhere.
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