How long do black powder revolvers last?

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gobsauce

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Evening folks,
I've been wanting to get into black powder for a while, and I was curious as to how durable they really are. As I understand, metallurgically speaking, brass is weaker than steel. In the case of the Pietta 1851, will I someday shoot it to the point of no return? Should I invest in the Pietta 1858 instead?
Thank, Gabe.
 
So just follow instructions. Still, would you recommend that I invest in a steel-frame black powder revolver?
 
So just follow instructions. Still, would you recommend that I invest in a steel-frame black powder revolver?
I would. I’ve never owned a brass revolver because imo they aren’t intended for every day full power use.

The oldest revolver I’ve shot is 157 years old. It functions as well as it did in the 1870’s. I have a modern replica which was made in 1964 and another one made in 1969. They’re both in perfect working order after thousands of rounds and all these years. I’m not sure Colt even intended them to be used as much as we use ours these days...
 
I think that most everyone will encourage you to buy the steel frame of your choice if concerned about durability.

The brassers can also last a long time if loads are kept to a happy minimum, and they are made in Colt and Remington models.
Some folks here still do buy brass ones because they either like the Confederate look or they can sometimes be bought at a reduced price.
And some folks figure that they can salvage some parts like the cylinder, grip frame, barrel or internal parts for future use for a project gun, for repair or to sell.

No one has ever scientifcally tested how long a brasser will last because every gun and loading history is different.
One member was loading 30 grains of Pyrodex in his brass 1858 without any problems in the short term.
But in the long run, maybe in 5-10 years he may experience some wear and tear issues.
A Colt brasser may also experience wear & tear issues either sooner or later than that.
Which one to buy really depends on how much a person wants to invest to try it out just to see how much they like firing one and the routine of cleaning it.
The recommended loads for a brasser are closer to 20-25 grains unless you want to buy a .36.
Cleaning is the chore after each shooting session which depending on whether you already have a muzzleloader or not, is part of the routine of shooting black powder guns.
And then there's a few accessories to buy,, maybe a powder measure, a powder flask, a nipple wrench and a capper.
Some of these can be home made or another can be skipped since capping can be done by hand.
Then you need to buy or make powder, caps and balls, and maybe also lubed wads which are optional.
Some of the extra costs add up, again depending on whether you want a holster or not and some cleaning supplies, loading press, screwdrivers or whatever.

Head to the nearest store and try to handle the models that you're interested in and inspect them closely if possible for fit and function before you buy one.
Good luck and don't forget that buying a Colt may turn you into a kitchen gunsmith quicker than you can say Boo! ;)
 
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Go steel unless your only going to use very light target loads. Besides steel frames re-sell better if by chance you figure black powder isnt for you. Steel frames also allow for you to get a cartridge conversion.
 
Steel. Buy once cry once. A brass one will eventually have issues if fed a steady diet of full power shooting.
 
Buy steel, I own both brass and steel in open top and Remington, shoot both in 36 and 44. My favorite guns to shoot are the open top brass frame guns. "But" I shoot mostly plinking, mouse fart loads for fun. Most shooters want heavier loads, the steel frame guns are much better for that. Brass can last longer than the owner, doubt I will ever wear mine out. I buy junk, abused, rusty guns for parts etc, see more damaged brass than steel frames. People can really abuse guns, both blackpowder and cartridge type. Steel definitely holds up better.
 
I noticed that on the EMF Firearms website, the sale price of a steel 1858 is only $5 more than the brass frame 1858., $235 vs. $230.
 
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The easiest answer to your questions is: it is totally up to you. Don't take care of it and you can ruin it in a week. Keep it clean, oiled and don't abuse it and it will look like those in the Rock Island Auction ads when your grandkids inherit it.
Go with steel, however.
 
@arcticap sold me my first (pietta 1858 steel) a little over a year ago and since I've put at least 500 rounds though it. I used a cutoff .223 case for a powder measure but since have gone to a cutoff 30-30 case so these are pretty heavy loads.

The only part that is really showing wear is the hand. These are cheap and I'll probably replace mine along with the corresponding spring. I think a bad spring is what led to this wear pattern. (Pardon the gun being dirty as I just shot it some today).
20200330_094919.jpg
The frame is still in great shape and the lockup is tight. The trigger isn't great but it ain't too bad either. These guns are accurate and built to last if you take care of them (even if you don't, they might surprise you). This morning I was making hits on an 8" gong at 70 yards. I'm by no means a pistolero, so I'll attribute the 3-4 misses each cylinder to user error. They were darned close though. If you enjoy taking your time and are into history, a replica revolver like this one is a great investment.
20181231_130500.jpg
 
Don’t confuse frame with trigger guard most steel frame cap and ball have brass trigger guards.

Also life could be real short on one if you fail to clean it within a reasonable amount of time.
Black powder residue is hygroscopic. Use Ballistol to clean and lube and your great grand kids can pass it down.
 
That gun was unfired when Olon bought it
I wonder if heavier loads of 777 contributed to the hand wear since that powder does add some additional recoil.
I don't think that it's typical for a Remington hand to wear that fast.
Perhaps the burr can be cleaned up just a little bit with a file.
Thanks for the update Olon and keep up the fine & accurate shooting.
To hit such a small gong at 70 yatds is rather amazing!
 
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That gun was new and unfired when Olon bought it
I wonder if heavier loads of 777 contributed to the hand wear since 777 powder does add some additional recoil.
I don't think that it's typical for a Remington hand to wear that fast.
Perhaps the burr can be cleaned up just a little bit with a file.
Thanks for the update Olon and keep up the fine & accurate shooting.
To hit such a small gong at 70 yatds is rather amazing especially with fixed sights!

I noticed the hand wear while I was still using a small (<27 volumetric grain) charge and recently stepped it up, so I don't think the heavier charge did it though it might accelerate wear down the road. To address the OP, though, while 500 rounds isn't a whole lot, I'll make it clear that the gun still shoots and operates like new over that period and the only (seemingly uncharacteristic) wear has been in a part which is cheap and easy to replace.
 
That gun was new and unfired when Olon bought it
I wonder if heavier loads of 777 contributed to the hand wear since 777 powder does add some additional recoil.
I don't think that it's typical for a Remington hand to wear that fast.
Perhaps the burr can be cleaned up just a little bit with a file.
Thanks for the update Olon and keep up the fine & accurate shooting.
To hit such a small gong at 70 yatds is rather amazing!
That bit about the hand wear brings me to a current thread “raging” in Revolvers about conversion cylinders with full power smokeless loads in black powder revolvers. Some think yea some nay. I think the added recoilis going to stress an other wise long life revolver sooner rather than later, and don’t use full power loads in mine.
Apologies for being off thread.

Added: Revisited the afore mentioned thread. Seems to have run its course for now. o_O
 
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Olon, I think that gun had a very tight lockup from the factory in that the hammer needed to be pulled back to the maximum position of rearward travel for it to lock up.
With Colts that's usually pretty desirable but I'm not sure about with the Remingtons.
27 grains of 777 is really not too much powder.
Perhaps the hand wasn't as hardened as it could have been, or was a little tight from the get go.
 
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I have one that's 46 years old and is all original save the hand spring. Guess it's all in how well you care for them.
 
I'll go a step further if possible; buy American and the only one around is Ruger, even though they aren't made anymore there are many new ones available from safe queens and many parts are out there. American metal, same as used on the Blackhawks and many parts interchangeable with the older 3 screw BH's, Bill Ruger didn't believe in retooling everything for a minor change!
 
Even though not made anymore there are many and even new in box models out there and often on auction sites, though more pricey than Italian or Spanish copies, they are American steel and will last generations if cared for!
 
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