How to load lead bullets

[MrMagumba]

I want to shoot some 38 special cases/loads in my 357 Ruger GP100 6" barrel revolver. I have only loaded jacketed bullets in my 357 mag, 357 sig, 9mm Luger. I loaded some 250 gr unjacketed lead in 45 Colt that worked. My junk box has a couple hundred Speer 148 gr HBWC and some home made 120 gr conical shaped bullets. From what I have read on the forum here is what I think I know about unjacketed bullets.
Lead should be shot with fast burning lower charges and jacketed can handle slower powder for higher velocities. Higher velocities of lead increase lead fouling. Not much to worry about as long as I follow the manual.
Also the higher the velocity of lead the more likely you need a gas check. I have no experience here. Some other junk box home made .311 bullets seem to have a reduced diameter base to accommodate some gas checks that came with them.

So how do you attach a gas check and when do you need them? The bullet needs to be built to specifically accommodate a gas check, right?
Do I need to worry about gas checks for the Speer HBWC? Maybe the hollow base expands and helps seal, and that is why people seem to like them.
How should I seat and crimp these Speer bullets? Any issues with shape of bullet seating stem? Need to use up some Titegroup so will be using that.

Are the pictured conical bullets junk? Some have lube stuck in the groove. They seem more like a 9mm Luger style, but the diameters vary from .355 - .357. Is it worth trying to shoot these in my 357 GP 100?

Ok probably too much for one post, but just trying to make sure I know what I'm doing in this area. Would appreciate your insights on this project.

 

[kmw1954]

The conical do look like 9mm varieties and I'd pass on those in the 38/357. The wadcutters I use to shoot those back when I had a S&W Model 19 and they were great fun and highly accurate. I use to load them with Bullseye. With cast lead bullets diameter plays a big part in accuracy and barrel leading.

There is a site Cast Boolits.com that is dedicated to loading cast lead bullets, go check it out!

 

[Blue68f100]

There is a lot more to it than that. When shooting lead the bullet needs to be a min 0.001" larger than the bore and must be able to pass through the cylinder throats without it being resized. HB allows you to use lower charges and still expand the bullet to seal against the bore. You have to careful not to push these too hard or you will blow the skirt off, leaving it in the bore. Also the harness of the bullet needs to hold up against the pressure and still expand to seal. Most BE loads use a soft 12 brn or softer.

 

[George P]

Do you not have a reloading manual? All of your questions regarding the HBWC will be answered there

 

[.308 Norma]

Wow, that's a lot of questions, MrMagumba! Good questions. But a lot, nonetheless.
I'll try 3 of them.

Do I need to worry about gas checks for the Speer HBWC?

No. Not only do you not "need to worry about gas checks for the Speer HBWC, gas checks won't fit on Speer HBWCs. And gas checks on HBWCs would be silly anyway - how would the gas get into the hollow base to expand it?

The bullet needs to be built to specifically accommodate a gas check, right?

Yes. See above. Bullets that are built to accept gas checks have "heeled" bases.

So how do you attach a gas check and when do you need them?

I install the gas check by placing a "heeled" bullet in a gas check, then push the bullet and gas check into the sizer die in my bullet sizer/lubricator. My bullet sizer/lubricator is a Lachmiller brand, but I think RCBS builds some nowadays.

I'd advice picking up a Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, MrMagumba. There's an awful lot to learn about shooting non-jacketed lead bullets - probably more than can be learned by asking questions here. I've seen questions just about leading go several pages on this forum, and with good reason - it's complicated. And when it comes to non-jacketed lead bullets, what works in one gun won't necessarily work in another.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Are the pictured conical bullets junk? Some have lube stuck in the groove. They seem more like a 9mm Luger style, but the diameters vary from .355 - .357. Is it worth trying to shoot these in my 357 GP 100?

Those do look like 9mm bullets but more importantly if the lube grooves are not full, all of them, you probably shouldn't use them. Without proper lube they will probably lead the barrel. Proper sizing is as important or more so when loading Cast bullets.

Shooting lead bullets are not all that hard to do, until the 70's most bullets were lead. I shoot them all the time without issues. The suggestion to read the front of your load manual for information on loading lead bullets is a good idea. It's not all that hard but has to be done right. Also, there is no need to use super fast powders, I use HS-6 all the time with lead bullets in the .357 Magnum, 45 Colt and a few others.

 

[MrMagumba]

Ok much of this corroborates my instincts. I'll scrap the 9 mm bullets for now and not worry about gas checks. My Hornady manual is a little thin on the subject, so I'll keep checking more resources on how to properly load those HBWC's.

 

[George P]

Load the HBWCs to seat flush with the top of the case (or crimp groove)and with the proper roll crimp and you'll be fine.