How to remove stuck,rusted, nipples

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ChasMack

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I just bought a well used Pietta I believe, 1851 Navy with a brass frame, 36 cal. I got it cheap so I could take it apart and see how it works and practice putting it back together again. Anyway, I was trying to remove the nipples as they are covered with a light rust. The little tool for removing nipples slides over a couple and I'm afraid to try again as it could get to the point I can't get them out at all. I have gotten one out and the others don't budge. The cylinder is also slightly rusted. Is there anything reliable that maybe can be sprayed on to help loosen the nipples? Could there be another tool that is better than what I am using (it's from Cabelas that came with the starter set, pretty basic I think)? Any suggestions on how to deal with a old rusty BP revolver will be appreciated :)
 
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There are several penetrants on the market. I like G96 Gun Treatment, which is a penetrant and also a protectant.

But to get stuck nipples out, the best way is to use a drill press and a short nipple wrench. Clamp the cylinder in the (padded) drill press vise and put the wrench into the chuck. Bring the wrench down on the stuck nipple and hold it down with the drill press handle. Turn the chuck by hand, working it back and forth to break the nipple free. (Do NOT turn on the power!) If that won't do it, you will probably have to drill the nipple out.

The same trick will work on stuck screws using a screw driver bit in the chuck.

Jim
 
nipples

Sounds like that would work fine,but I have no drill press and I can't think of anyone who does. I'll try the G96 gun treatment to see if that helps at all. Hate to think I have to spend $150.00 on a small drill press to remove some nipples,especially on a $75.00 revolver :(
 
Penetrant: a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (the original ATF, not the new synthetic stuff). Introduce it from both sides of the nipple threads. Let it soak overnight, then refresh it the next day and let it soak overnight again.

Tool: lose the cheap wrench from DGW. Get a 3/16" quarter inch drive socket and grind two slots in the sidewalls so it fits on the nipple.

Get a 5/16" wood dowel and cut off two pieces long enough to fit all the way down in the chamber with 4" still outside.

Place the two dowels in chambers on opposite sides of the cylinder and place the free ends in between the jaws of a vise; tighten the jaws down on the dowels so that the cylinder sits nipples up above the jaws.

Place the modified socket on one of the nipples and put a socket wrench extension in the drive hole.

Ideally you would then chuck the extension into a drill press like Jim described, but lacking that you can make do with a regular hand held drill motor, the bigger the better. Just don't plug it in, or be sure to remove the battery so you don't accidentally turn it on. As described above, turn the chuck with your hand being careful not to tilt the drill motor at the same time. This is a bit tricky to accomplish but it works like a charm if you can pull it off.
 
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