How to tighten ejector rod?

[Twiki357]

After 50 years and 19 S&W revolvers with never a problem, number 20 caught up with me. I recently acquired a S&W Model 19-3 and a Colt Trooper Mark 5. The ejector rods on both keep coming loose. I just read RCmodels corrective procedure for an “N” frame in this old thread.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=722156&highlight=ejector+rod

Before I louse something up, I would like to confirm that the procedure also applies to the “K” frame 19-3, which it should, AND will the same procedure apply to the Colt? Also, on the Colt, when I screw the ejector rod in tight, it binds the cylinder rotation. If I only tighten it until it barely hits bottom, no problem, but comes loose with the first 6 rounds.

 

[rcmodel]

Yes, it applies to all S&W Models & frame sizes.

The Colt is different, as the ejector rod on them should be staked to the ejector star after assembly. (At least on the older style action made prior to 1972?)

Newer ones are just screwed in.

Your MK 5 is the later style though so LT should work on it too.

I have never used Lock-Tight on a Colt, as I have never had one come loose that was factory staked that I can recall.

You can try Blue Lock-Tight on it however.
It will either work, or not.

Rc

 

[Jim K]

The old Colts had the ratchet star separate from the ejector rod, but the Trooper Mark V uses the same system as the S&W and the problem can be corrected the same way.

Jim

 

[Twiki357]

Thank you gentlemen. Your assistance, as always, is greatly appreciated.

 

[Kernel]

I'm sure it's been covered elsewhere, but let me reiterate here, your Smith's ejector rod has reversed threads. Turn it clockwise to loosen. (Counter clockwise to tighten). AFAIK all "modern" Smiths, those made with a Model Number, have the reverse threads on the ejector rod.

 

[BCRider]

Instead of the block of wood tool that rc suggested in his other thread I've used a patch of thick "belt" leather folded over as a pad to use with some pliers for tightening my S&W rods.

The trick is to not over tighten. Start with just a little tighter than hand tight. If it comes loose again then pinch it a little tighter yet. Almost certainly the second try will do the trick.

With my own I found that even just a firm pinch tighter than finger tight was enough. And nothing with any of this should require white knuckle fisting to do. We're talking only a few inch-ounces more torque then you can get from your bare fingers.

I prefer this option because I do take down and clean the cylinder, ejector rod and star after a few thousand rounds. And any thread locker would get in the way if I were to use it.