Hybrid Ceramic Sealant/LSP for brass?

[westernrover]

I know a lot of people are using Nu Finish, and there is that contingent that's afraid anything could cause a misfire. Nu Finish, introduced in the 1970's, is completely obsolete as a car paint sealant/last-stage product. Up until a few years ago, more advanced synthetic polymers were the first choice in the auto detailing business. I'm not talking about boutique, snake-oil rip-off products sold to unwary consumers, but the products well-established in the industry. More recently, hybrid ceramic LSP's have disrupted the car "wax" business. To be sure, I'm not talking about the true ceramic paint coatings that are near permanent. I'm talking about products like Griot's Garage 3-in-1 Ceramic Wax, Meguiars Ceramic Wax, and Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray Coating.

Polymer-based products like Nu Finish originally displaced natural canauba wax products becuase of increased durability. While there have been a lot of exaggerated claims, it's fair to say that while natural waxes could last weeks, synthetic polymer could last months. Now we have hybrid ceramic sealants that are proving to last six months to years, and those claims are not just hype. They're also a lot easier to apply. They have, for all intents and purposes, made the old-school polymer-based LSP's obsolete for automotive detailing.

How does this translate to cartridge brass? Anyone experiment with them yet? I can see the argument that there isn't really a problem to be solved. I shoot and clean my brass again long before it tarnishes, and simple air-tight sealing is sufficient for long-term storage spanning a lifetime. Even so, I still hear a lot of people using Nu Finish, so there must be some compelling reason for it. Would hybrid ceramics be even better?

 

[Blue68f100]

I think most of us use what we have on the shelf. I have brass that was cleaned 5+ years ago still have a shine on them from NuFinish. I've sinced switched to wet cleaning and very seldom use my vibrating tumbler any more.

As long as product fully drys it should be usable. One thing to consider is how it mixes with the media. Nu Finish needs to run for 15 min or so when added to get it evenly distributed, no clumps.

 

[Otto]

One of the functions of brass is to expand and grab hold of the chamber walls, spreading the pressure across the entire area of the brass against the chamber. If the brass is not allowed to grab hold of the chamber walls, then all of that pressure is transferred rearward onto the base of the case. This can also contribute to gas blow-by. Slippery brass in not a good thing.
When cleaning, I don't use anything that can reduce the friction on the brass casing...no wax, no Nu Finish or case polish of any kind.
For me, Lemi Shine (citric acid) provides enough passivization to protect against corrosion and tarnishing.

 

[merlynski]

My rifle brass, after drying, that comes out of the wet pin tumble process (citric acid and a little bit of Simple Green) has that 'clean, slightly greasy feel' that I associate with clean brass metal.
Does dry vibratory tumbling (to remove sizing lube) negate the passivization of the citric acid? I clean off the lube so the brass sticks to the chamber properly when fired . . .
Or do I 'need' to put something in the dry walnut to recoat/seal them?

 

[Rule3]

Just to burst you bubble. NU FINISH now makes a CERAMIC coating.
https://www.nufinish.com/product/nu-finish-better-than-wax-ceramic-coating/


I just used it on two vehicles. I have been using Nu Fish POLISH since it came it. It is a great product,

It removes dead paint. oxidation, sap, bugs etc and leaves a great coating on the finish.

Ceramic coatings require a stripped finish, and clay block or other grime remover. The Ceramic is then put on as a sealant only. It does not do the work of a POLISH.

I also dry tumble and use Nu Finish Polish. (there are others out there that work as well)

The use of Ceramic in the tumbler would not have the same cleaning action on dull dirty brass. JMHO

I thought of trying it, buy why bother. It's not broke, Maybe I will test a few pieces with hand polishing with each. But then I would just use FLITZ witha q tip for the primer pockets for that

 

[Demi-human]

Passivated brass doesn’t need a sealant. And ammunition isn’t exposed to the elements as a car is. Most of us store ammunition much better than our automobiles.
Besides, my brass already has ceramic sealant. It gets wet tumbles with whatever I use on my truck. This time it was the Meguires of which you speak,@westernrover.

Just to burst your bubble.

To maybe burst some more bubbles, danger from lubed brass isn’t a thing.
All my brass is lubed. Beyond the wash and wax.
Heck, all my bullets are lubed too.

I even lubricate eggs with a bit of butter in the pan.
Butter! The great tasting lubricant!

That a firearm would rupture from slippery brass is funny to think about.
The primer goes off, the powder burns, the case expands and the bullet begins to leave.
And then what? The gun unlocks? Steel becomes water? The brass does? The powder decided it didn’t like whale oil and boosted its own pressure to rupture the case? The lugs didn’t like it, they shrank and the bolt split…

Too much powder is why rifles blow up, not greasy brass.