I resized incorrectly.

[glennv]

I resized a batch of .308. I didn't have the die set low enough so the cartridge fits very tightly in the chamber. Fit in the case gauge fine though. !00 rounds are completed and another 200 or so brass have been trimmed and primed.

Should I scrap the brass and just reuse the bullets, primers and powder. Or should I resize the brass again? (Primers in or out if I do this?)

 

[Tolkachi Robotnik]

If bolt goes down with reasonable pressure?

You may be able to fire your reloads. They need to be checked for throat and bullet engagement on the rifling, that could peak pressures. Having brass that is not squeezed down enough does not cause a peak in pressure, unless it is in neck and maybe shoulder enough to prevent proper head space action. If the rounds do not come into battery properly it could be a problem. If your bolt closes completely you can probably fire your loads. You can adjust the next set better.

Take a marker and make a line around the bullet ogive right past the neck. Chamber a round and remove it. If the rifling does not show on the marked area you are probably safe. If you cannot chamber the loads you will have to pull down bullets etc.

You will not want to hunt with those loads. If your rifle is not a bolt gun I would not fire the reloads.

 

[glennv]

They're for bolt guns. I will prob pull the bullets and start over. I did pull one of the cases that I primed but didn't load yet. I re sized it with the shoulder set further back and it chambered just fine and was well within the specs of my case gauge. Is it OK to just run everything back through the re sizing die after I pull the primers?

And I'm only target shooting with these.

thanks

 

[burrhead]

There's no reason to deprime. Just remove the decapping pin and resize. Leave the primers where they are.

 

[rsrocket1]

There's no reason to deprime. Just remove the decapping pin and resize. Leave the primers where they are.

You may be right, but I would try that on one cartridge first rather than doing a whole batch. Some dies (like the Lee) undersize the neck and depend on the expansion ball to size the inside when you pull it out.

If you have a bolt gun there is no reason not to check each round after a sizing. I do that all the time when I neck size. Size a case, see if it chambers, go to the next case. If it is too tight, it goes into a pile to bump the shoulder back.

 

[cacoltguy]

You could also get hold of a body die (I have one made by Redding). I'm not sure if the number of rounds you have loaded justifies the cost of a new die ($28 at Midway), but it would save you the headache of pulling apart rounds to resize. All a body die does is bump the shoulder back and no contact is made with the neck. The bullet would just pass through untouched and all you would do is wipe the lube off the round afterwards.

 

[jr_roosa]

You can also take out the pin and leave the expander ball to re expand the necks, or they will probably be too small to take a bullet.

Do not scrap the brass.

I had a similar problem with 30-30 last week for a slightly different reason I won't go into here but I just forced them all in and shot them up.

You can always just shoot the ones that will fit and the ones that won't close set aside to pull and resize later. I bet some will go and some won't unless they are all really big.

J.

 

[Scimmia]

You can also take out the pin and leave the expander ball to re expand the necks, or they will probably be too small to take a bullet.

Assuming that the pin can be removed from the expander assembly. Not all dies are made this way.

 

[Shmackey]

You could also get hold of a body die (I have one made by Redding). I'm not sure if the number of rounds you have loaded justifies the cost of a new die ($28 at Midway), but it would save you the headache of pulling apart rounds to resize.

Been there. Indeed, there's no reason to pull down your rounds.

 

[USSR]

Yep, a body die is a very handy thing to have.

Don

 

[Sapper771]

Yep, a body die is a very handy thing to have.

Don

I learned this a few months ago. Saved me a lot of time.

 

[gamestalker]

Funny thing, I had a similar experience yesterday while loading for my Son's new 270 win.. I was using his once fired factory brass that had been run through his rifle, so without giving much thought or checking head space, I necked them.

So I pulled the bullets, saved the powder, and I backed off the entire depriming rod assembly far enough so as to not contact the primers at all. Ran them back through a FL die after I had determined proper head space, and all is good now. It turned out that this chamber was a bit tight compared to others I load for, which explains why necking wouldn't work with the factory once fired brass on this chamber. No biggie, really, other than some time spent pulling, and a few minutes of FL die adjustment and re-weighing the charges. My seating depth remained the same, so no real time spent adjusting that.

GS

 

[gspn]

I did that one time with a bunch of .357 rounds...I bought a Lee Factory Crimp Die for $17 bucks...ran them all through...and they fit perfectly.

 

[Scimmia]

FCD for pistols is completely different than the FCD for rifles. It will do nothing at all to help in this case.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

IMO some of the posts are making things way more complicated then they need to be. No reason to remove the primers from the 200 cases you already trimmed and primed. Like said above, just remove the decapping pin and resize. All you need to do is bump the shoulder back a bit from what you're saying.

You said the 100 cartridges you completed fit in the case gauge fine but are tight in the rifle. Since these are only for the range I would shoot those with no modification since the case gauge is telling you they are within specs. Are you sure the bullet isn't extending into the rifling? It's rare for the case to show good in a case gauge but still have resistance in the chamber, that just might be the bullet hitting the rifling.

 

[Lethal Threat]

I resized a batch of .308. I didn't have the die set low enough so the cartridge fits very tightly in the chamber. Fit in the case gauge fine though. !00 rounds are completed and another 200 or so brass have been trimmed and primed.

Should I scrap the brass and just reuse the bullets, primers and powder. Or should I resize the brass again? (Primers in or out if I do this?)

That brass should be scraped. I will pay shipping to dispose of properly. Leave primers in tact please for safety concerns. Wink wink

 

[readyeddy]

If it fits, it fits. I mean, for the bolt to close and go into battery means a cartridge is in place to fire.

 

[dragon813gt]

This is why you make a dummy round first. I ran into the same problem w/ a batch of 100 pieces of LC brass. Caught it when making the dummy when I had the bullet set extremely deep and the bolt still wouldn't close. Bumped the shoulder back on all of them and I was good to go.


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[fguffey]

“I resized a batch of .308. I didn't have the die set low enough so the cartridge fits very tightly in the chamber. Fit in the case gauge fine though. !00 rounds are completed and another 200 or so brass have been trimmed and primed.

Should I scrap the brass and just reuse the bullets, primers and powder. Or should I resize the brass again? (Primers in or out if I do this?)”

I adjust the die in the press first, every time. I determine if the die made it to the shell holder, if the die does not make it to the shell holder the case can not be returned to minimum length, for me that is expected because I size cases to fit the chamber, I do not work the arm of the press for exercise, I also know the length of the chamber from the shoulder back to the bolt face before I start.

Pulling the bullets is easier on the case than firing them, problem, you did not determine if the case would chamber before you seated the bullet, therefore you do not know if the seating die was set too low, setting the seating die too low can cause the shoulder/case body etc., to bulge and or bulge, again, the seating die does not offer case body support.

F. Guffey

 

[fguffey]

“You said the 100 cartridges you completed fit in the case gauge fine but are tight in the rifle. Since these are only for the range I would shoot those with no modification since the case gauge is telling you they are within specs. Are you sure the bullet isn't extending into the rifling? It's rare for the case to show good in a case gauge but still have resistance in the chamber, that just might be the bullet hitting the rifling”

If we are talking about a L.E. Wilson case gage? Not true, the Wilson case gage can be used to determine the length of case in thousandths, a minimum length/full length sized case and a fired case, again, the L.E. Wilson case gage is a datum based tool.

I make chamber gages, I do not make tomato stakes out of barrels, I make chamber gages, it is not necessary to cut the barrel from the chamber end of the barrel, leaving the barrel attached takes up more space it is, however better than cussing the darkness.

F. Guffey

 

[Scimmia]

IMO some of the posts are making things way more complicated then they need to be. No reason to remove the primers from the 200 cases you already trimmed and primed. Like said above, just remove the decapping pin and resize. All you need to do is bump the shoulder back a bit from what you're saying.

And again, what about the dies where you can't remove the pin without removing the entire expander assembly?

 

[ArchAngelCD]

And again, what about the dies where you can't remove the pin without removing the entire expander assembly?

Since he already ran the brass through the dies once already running them through again is just to nudge the shoulder back a hair. From what he's saying the bolt closes albeit tight. He just needs to nudge the shoulder a bit from what he's telling us.

At this point we are all guessing because none of us but for the OP have access to the brass.

 

[Scimmia]

Since he already ran the brass through the dies once already running them through again is just to nudge the shoulder back a hair. From what he's saying the bolt closes albeit tight. He just needs to nudge the shoulder a bit from what he's telling us.

At this point we are all guessing because none of us but for the OP have access to the brass.

Unless he goes and buys a bump die or a bushing die, bumping the shoulder back requires resizing the neck, which would then need the expander ball run back through it.

 

[GLOOB]

The one caution here, you should always measure/trim after sizing. If you bump the shoulder back on a finished round with a body die, a borderline case could potentially grow enough to be out of spec.

But certainly, there's no need to scrap the brass. If you're gonna pull and reuse the bullets, the brass can always be resized. Even if you can't remove the decapping pin, just put the primers back in after you resize them.

I do not make tomato stakes out of barrels

Lol. I don't understand 90% of your posts, fguffey. But I get a kick out of them, anyway.

 

[fguffey]

Gloob, ArchAngleCD said:

“You said the 100 cartridges you completed fit in the case gauge fine but are tight in the rifle. Since these are only for the range I would shoot those with no modification since the case gauge is telling you they are within specs. Are you sure the bullet isn't extending into the rifling? It's rare for the case to show good in a case gauge but still have resistance in the chamber, that just might be the bullet hitting the rifling”

What part of of his statement did you not understand, he said case gage, the case gage only measures the length of the case from the shoulder to the head of the case, someone else has not spoken to me with a kind word for over two years, he claimed he was using the case gage as a chamber gage, something you should know, the case gage will measure case length for fired and sized cases.

As to the 90% you fail to understand, I have 60+ barrels, both take off and new with a few Mousers mixed in. All of the barrels have chambers, I have 64 chamber reamers, I have access to 225+ chamber reamers, making a chamber gage is a matter of choosing a barrel with the correct chamber, there is enough metal in a barrel to make 4 chamber gages, I make chamber gages.

Then there is the tomato stake, when a barrel is replaced for different reasons others claim the barrel is only good for a tomato stake. I believe that is a waste of resources. I also go through barrels of barrels at gun parts stores looking for chamber gages I do not have, barrels from the barrels can be had for $5.00. Instead of making tomato stakes I pay $5.00 for a chamber gage and 3 chamber gage blanks.

Not for you to worry, I place no demand on anyone to try and or attempt to take the time to understand. When I do not understand a response I ask for help.

F. Guffey