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I wanna learn accuracy.

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Lots of good info here, especially, IMHO, the value of a .22LR, dry fire practice, concentrating on the front site, and developing a good trigger pull. Something that's nice about a revolver, at least a centerfire revolver, is that you can use it for dry fire practice at home. OTOH, a .22LR allows you to shoot more live rounds and focus on the basics. Best would be to get both! Another alternative might be an airpistol so you can shoot at home, if legal.

I saw something at the range today that I often see, and this thread reminded me of it - don't look at the target between shots!! I often see people take their first shot, adjust their grip, lower the gun a bit and look to see where they hit, then repeat the process until the mag is empty. And their groups are always huge! Taking your eyes off the front sight and/or re-adjusting your grip in the middle of a string of shots will kill your accuracy as badly as any accuracy killer will. In fact, it doesn't have to be very obvious to be an accuracy killer - taking your focus off the front sight, even momentarily, during a string of shots will hurt your accuracy. I find it takes a lot of surprising amount of concentration to stay focused on the front sight during a string of shots, and there's a stong temptation to quickly peek over the sight to see how I'm doing, but don't do it! And once you get your grip - keep it and don't re-adjust! Just get your grip, aquire your target, focus everything you've got on the front sight, and with a nice controlled trigger pull, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang (I like revolvers :D). Dry fire practice is good for this.
 
Six steps to a good shot

See the attached PDF for more details, or view it at this link



1) Sight alignment - Using that sling REALLY steadies you and tightens your groups.
2) Sight picture - Natural Point Of Aim (or NPOA) is HUGE. I didnt realize this before the last few months. This makes a big difference.
3) Respiratory pause - For maximum effect make sure you fire at the same point in your breathing every time.
4) Focus
a. Eye on the front sight - At first it seems odd to focus on the front sight, but it works. Keeps you from wobbling.
b. Mind on the front sight
5) Squeeze trigger - Make sure you are not jerking it, but squeeze through it.
6) Follow through - For more effective follow-up on your shot hold and slowly release the trigger so that you can actually hear the sear click on a semi-auto.

The attached document has more details.
 
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3. This is probably the biggest one. Shoot at a smaller target. Don't shoot at the full-silhouettes, targets with an 8 or 10 inch bull's eye, or anything like that. Print off or make your own targets will smaller circles, 1-3" inches. You don't need large format paper for this, just a regular 8x11 sheet will do. Avoid those with only one circle, you'll tend to just aim at the middle of the paper. I like the ones with 2-5 circles each on them. You'll find that your groups will tighten up just from aiming at a smaller point.
You can get targets for free download here, and print your own:
www.brightsights.com
I like the 4-bull ones best lately.
 
Ballistics

I can only speak for myself, but I found one thing that -- unexpectedly -- led to an improvement in my shooting, was an understanding of what a ballistic arc is.

Silly, I know.

Somehow I'd managed to miss that bullets travel in arcs.

Some kind of dumb slip of the mind, and I was imagining that bullets left the barrel traveling straight at the target and that, at some point, the gradual drop due to gravity meant you would have to compensate.

And I would miss the target (high) at close ranges and not know why. My lack of understanding of simple ballistics led me to try all manner of "corrective" things that just made things worse.

A simple comment by one of the guys at a local gun shop when I asked, "why does sighting in an M1 Carbine at 25 yards also work for 100 yards?" turned on the light for me.

Duh.

Bullets leave the barrel traveling UPWARD -- not a lot, but just enough to give two separate intersections along the line of sight to the target, with a high spot in between.

Once I grasped that, I was able to deal with the other dumb things I was doing that pulled shots sideways and up or down.

I can hit stuff now.

Not perfect, but way better.

So, 1) understand the basics, and 2) get some training.

The money you spend on ammo practicing techniques you'll want to unlearn later can be better spent on a few days or hours of learning to practice it right.
 
I would HIGHLY recommend that you attend an Appleseed event for some great Rifle Instruction. You will not find a nicer bunch, or a group of instructors more committed to helping you become a "Rifleman".

You can find their list of events at http://www.rwva.org/yabbse/index.php?topic=1385.0

If there is not an event close enough to you and there is a place to hold one they will come set it up. You can PM funfaler on this forum for more information on that.

I dont know of anyone who has gone to Appleseed and given it less than VERY positive reviews.
+ 1 to that.

Their new website is www.appleseedinfo.org/ashfoxgroup/
 
Accuracy comes with time and the proper stance, trigger control and sight alignment you must practice, practice all of these correctly and accuracy will follow, most people can get sight alignment but they never get trigger control down.
 
Nutshell-wise, here's the skinny...

My position is that it's difficult to become a good field shot or beer can shot without first becoming a good shot on paper bullseyes.

First thing is to start out with a shooting iron which is known to be fairly accurate. This means a .22 rifle. This means, next, a rifle with clean Patridge sights, flat rear sight with a square notch, front sight a square post, and just a little daylight between the post and the notch. Use sight blacking.

This also means a crisp trigger letoff.

This means using decent ammunition. (For some reason, and I know I'll get flack for this, Federal always seems to work best for me regardless of caliber.) Use standard velocity ammunition.

This means starting out with a good rest --sandbags and a solid bench and solid seating arrangements. Not so important with a .22 rifle, with so little recoil, but you must hold the rifle exactly the same with both hands, and it must rest on the sanbags the same for each shot. If it's an autoloader, so much the better.

The object of this is to develop your sense of a sight picture. I disagree that a smaller target is easier to sight at. Use a pistol 50-yard repair center target at 25 yards with an 8 inch bull. I use it for rifles at 100 yards.

Do not walk your shots around the target to hit the center. Just fire each shot independently using the same sight picture. The object here is to prove your sight picture is adequate, not that you can hit the X in the middle.

After you've established a reasonably consistent group you can move your sights (rear sight in same direction as the direction you want to move the group --rear sight up to move the group up, rear sight left to move the group left, etc.) Do not try to move the sights between shots. Take a group first.

They say to focus your vision on the front sight, leaving the great big fuzzy blob of the target sitting over the post, and with the rear sight only slightly out of focus.

Make sure this big fuzzy blob is sitting over the front sight. Don't try to "center" it on the front sight. If you try to sight on the center, your eyeball does not know where it is except for being somewhere in the black. If you have the big fuzzy blob sitting completely over (but just touching) the front sight, you then know where you are in relation to the aforementioned big fuzzy blob.

When you're sighting, "scan" a couple of dimensions in "quarters." That is, is the big blurry blob centered over the front sight? Are the small bars of light between the front sight and the rear sight the same? Is the big fuzzy blob still over the front sight while you're sqeezxing the trigger? Is the top of the front sight still level with the top of the rear sight? This scanning goes on constantly while you are increasing the force on the trigger.

To make the miniscule little changes to adjust your sight picture, don't move your whole body. Just increase the force with the heel of your hand on the grip or the forend, for example a teeny bit and the wights will move accordingly.

After a while, you'll be able to "call" your shots. That is, you'll know whether the shot was off or not. A marksman will get to the point where he/she can predict just about exactly where on the target he/she would hit with each bad shot: "Damn. Seven ring at 1 o'clock." (This is called a "called flyer.")

They say if you can "call" your shots, you're a marksman, and this can be done only if you've developed a sense of the proper sight picture.

Breath control: This varies with the shooter. I take only one deep breath once I'm in position, two more little puffs, then another full breath and let some out before I hold it. Do not hold your breath until you feel you "need" to take another breath. If it's taking that long to establish the right sight picture, stop squeezing the trigger, do the deep breath, little breaths, full, and hold again, and continue the trigger force increase. I find the full breath increases my body rigidity because of the internal pressure. Others recommend differently.

Don't hurry the process because you're running out of air. It's been a long time, but I believe you are allowed three minutes between shots in the slow fire high-powered stages of a match, so even the best shots may repeat the process several times before the shot is actually let off.

Trigger control: There is a bit of confusion over this. For beginning shooters, it is usually best to squeeze the trigger gradually until the shot is let off as a surprise. However, with a good light target trigger, you should know when the gun will go bang and you time this "bang" with when the sights are just about to cross the target where you want the bullet to hit. This is kind of advanced, but this need to "know" when the trigger will let off is the reason for the popularity of set triggers in so many unlimited matches. These things will let off at only a few ounces, thereby allowing the marksman to "time" the exact instant of firing with just before the sights align exactly on the target.

All this is called "trigger discipline," and I'm sorry to say it takes practice before the individual skills all blend into an automatic procedure that just "happens" with each shot.

After you get done bench-rest shooting and establishing this automatic process (and getting your rifle sighted in), you can graduate to shooting "freehand," as it were, that is, off the bench. If you are taking shots with a rifle, you should use the sling, even if it's just a "hasty sling" configuration. Having that sling swinging around while you're trying to shoot is not conducive to accuracy.

This is not to say that you can't have fun shooting handguns all the while you're developing your riflery skills. In fact, you will find a considerable tranfer of learning from the rifle to the handgun. But using a rifle at first, with its inherently more accurate long sighting radius, will allow you the feedback on your grouping without introducing the variable of the short sighting radius of the handgun.

Then, and only then, can you graduate to beer cans at 100 yards. Nothing to it. Just imagine the beer can in the center of the aforementioned big fuzzy black blob.

Well, gotta go to the range and practice my groin shot. Nothing to it. You just imagine the groin in the center of a big fuzzy black blob.
 
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Sight alignment and trigger control, everyone has already posted this, but don't forget your dryfiring!! Triplecheck for clear and follow the four rules as always, but pick a target with a safe backstop at home and dryfire dryfire dryfire. A very good trick to help you learn to not jerk the trigger is to put a coin at the muzzle and of your barrel. When you can keep a good sight picture, pull the trigger and not have the coin fall off and keep a good sight picture after the trigger pull, then your doing things right. You will notice an improvement when you go to the range.
 
Quote:
I would HIGHLY recommend that you attend an Appleseed event for some great Rifle Instruction. You will not find a nicer bunch, or a group of instructors more committed to helping you become a "Rifleman".

You can find their list of events at http://www.rwva.org/yabbse/index.php?topic=1385.0

If there is not an event close enough to you and there is a place to hold one they will come set it up. You can PM funfaler on this forum for more information on that.

I dont know of anyone who has gone to Appleseed and given it less than VERY positive reviews.

+ 1 to that.

Their new website is www.appleseedinfo.org/ashfoxgroup/
Update to the website for Appleseeds:
new address is www.appleseedinfo.org
 
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